Undercoating Options
Anyone else have any issues with the lanolin based products and electronics? I've searched extensively and all I can find is issues where the rubber door gaskets may have swollen from product dripping out the weep holes. @Speakerfritz is the first I've heard of with electrical issues (at least on his 2019).
Anyone else have any issues with the lanolin based products and electronics? I've searched extensively and all I can find is issues where the rubber door gaskets may have swollen from product dripping out the weep holes. @Speakerfritz is the first I've heard of with electrical issues (at least on his 2019).
I did the belly of my Flex, took it in for an alignment and the mechanic thought it had a massive oil leak. Of course it was fresh WW so it had no dirt in it yet.
Anyone else have any issues with the lanolin based products and electronics? I've searched extensively and all I can find is issues where the rubber door gaskets may have swollen from product dripping out the weep holes. @Speakerfritz is the first I've heard of with electrical issues (at least on his 2019).
Dave
I think I posted in this thread already anyway. But,
No issues with Woolwax / lanolin here. So far in my yrs of experimenting, overall it stays / doesn’t wash away the best. Stays soft / waxy, once you get some dust or dirt on it, it helps it stay as well.
The lighter ‘rust check’ (insert your favorite brand here) oils work the best for wicking into crevices and joints, and areas that have foam in it.
LPS3 dries to a hard wax coating, but takes months to do that. Once it dries, it doesn’t wash / clean away easily, it takes a solvent. I use it in certain areas.
CorrosionX used to have a warning label not to use on rubber or plastic. It is a lighter oil, and seems to wick (capillary) Ok too.
Just to add, no matter what I’ve done, eventually some washes away or inaccessible areas, and it rusts away..
No issues with Woolwax / lanolin here. So far in my yrs of experimenting, overall it stays / doesn’t wash away the best. Stays soft / waxy, once you get some dust or dirt on it, it helps it stay as well.
The lighter ‘rust check’ (insert your favorite brand here) oils work the best for wicking into crevices and joints, and areas that have foam in it.
LPS3 dries to a hard wax coating, but takes months to do that. Once it dries, it doesn’t wash / clean away easily, it takes a solvent. I use it in certain areas.
CorrosionX used to have a warning label not to use on rubber or plastic. It is a lighter oil, and seems to wick (capillary) Ok too.
Just to add, no matter what I’ve done, eventually some washes away or inaccessible areas, and it rusts away..
That reminds me, WoolWax makes Creep and Crawl that seeks out and fill voids as well as another product called ********, which is similar to the LPS3 mentioned. Creep and Crawl is one that I would avoid using on electrical connections as it could get in them, but for other areas that are hard to reach, thats the stuff to use.
I get pretty crazy spraying fluid film on the entire underside of the truck and have noticed a couple things.
1. The rubber gasket along the bottom of the cab gets soft and gooey if fluid film sits on it
2. I had to replace the plastic bed rail caps because it appears the fluid film made the locking tabs soft and they started breaking. But then I'm not sure because my wife's truck hasn't had the problem.
Overall I've been impressed with the performance of fluid film and will keep using it.
1. The rubber gasket along the bottom of the cab gets soft and gooey if fluid film sits on it
2. I had to replace the plastic bed rail caps because it appears the fluid film made the locking tabs soft and they started breaking. But then I'm not sure because my wife's truck hasn't had the problem.
Overall I've been impressed with the performance of fluid film and will keep using it.
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