No it does not dry, it will stay as an oil. Some products do, but not many. Eventually all the lighter oil types do wash off.

 

This was on a '18 Super Duty he bought new. I can't remember the brand, might have been Woolwax, but I can't remember. It was one of the black wax based undercoatings. I guess my point is that road wash is gonna wear it down regardless. A lot of people thing the wax coatings are a one and done. They really aren't. I'm ok with respraying mine every year, as I know it's gonna need it anyway,

 

For those interested in Wool Wax. This is my F450, the WW was professionally applied in 2019, driven in the Green Bay area until 2022. Then State line area mostly in WI on Pickled winter roads.




It is still thick, rubs off on my hands, fingers, arms, legs, pants shirt, but still remains in place. A few areas where it rubs together, like the spings, or gets exceptionally hot, like the pumpkin, have gone away so there is surface rust in those areas, but front to back, the frame is pristine.

Though it isn't needed, their package includes all internal areas, Tailgate, bed walls, doors, fenders, anywhere they can stick the wand has been coated, they use the clear stuff, and still to this day it weeps out the drain holes in the doors and is a PITA to keep clean.

 

@acdii , how often does your truck get washed? I'm curios to know how well the Woolwax sticks around through multiple washings.

 

Considering it does not fit in any car wash with under spray, it doesn't get hit with high pressure, I just hose it off with regular sprayer. No need to blast it with high pressure since it would knock the dust off since it is part of the protection. It is highly recommended to drive down a gravel road after application. Salt can't penetrate the thick film and the dust helps seal the film from exposure. Thats probably why it has lasted so many years.

 

I take my truck with Krown through an automatic wash (with underbody spray) 1-2 times every week, including the 5-6 months there's salt on the road. After a year, there are some spots that are dry and need retreatment, mainly the areas that see direct road spray like diffs, hitch, & parts of the suspension. Krown recommends not using an underbody wash but I can't help myself and it really doesn't seem to matter that much. The areas that don't see direct road spray seem to retain a protective coating just fine.

One of the things that's not often mentioned is the damage that can be done in the month (or more) in the spring when the roads are drying but still caked with salty dust. This is the stuff that blows around and carries the salt into the engine bay, frame and bed rails, electrical connections, and way up into all the other nooks and crannies. Combine that with warming temperatures and moisture in the air and that's when the rust really kicks off. That's where the benefits of a creeping, self healing oil treatment are most significant.

 

Great Point about the dust. After the snow is over, and the roads start to warm, whatever was used as a deicer oozes out of the pavement as well, so that mist carries it EVERYWHERE! Only after there has been a significant storm with hard rain, will the deicer be washed away from the roads, but until then, everything is vulnerable.

 

2024 - F-350 Crew Cab 8’Bed DRW 7.3, @ 400 miles, I have applied 36 cans of PB Surface Shield inside the frame and in-spaces in the lower body. I used 12 cans of Cosmoline on the out side of the frame, axles, suspension parts, skid plates, and underbody.
Instead of waiting, for the dust and dirt pieces of organic matter and fuzz to impregnate the tacky Cosmoline, After 3 days, I spray coated graphite powder directly on the Cosmoline. The graphite will shed water and can be sprayed on all the surfaces underneath, because it is not flammable and does not contain a lot of weight to unbalance drives shafts.

 

WOW! Talk about belt and suspenders...where did you come up with the idea of graphite?

For the cost of all those aerosols, one could get 4 years of Krown with a lifetime warranty.

 

as an airplane mechanic, we use graphite where you can’t apply grease, “tight spaces “ .
I noticed that the graphite keeps water and corrosion and rust from moving parts and parts in that general area, where we spray it.
also, what people don’t realize, is enclosed spaces “rain water” condensation forms inside the spaces every single day as the temperatures change. The inside of enclosed spaces, if exposed to air exchange, will rust. Water from condensation is water with very few suspended minerals, therefore it is very corrosive.

 

I used 36 cans of PB surface shield, inside the frame rails, hollow suspension parts and inside the lower body panels of my new “400 mile” 24 F-350 8’ DRW.
I chose surface shield because it would spray out evenly and thoroughly through the extended hose nozzles that I bought online. On the outside of the frame and suspension parts I used 12 cans of Black Cosmoline.
once the Cosmoline cooled and dried some, three days later, I sprayed graphite over the Cosmoline. This was to avoid dust dirt and organic particles from sticking to the outside of the frame rails. Graphite can be used on all the surfaces underneath, because it is nonflammable and lightweight, so moving parts will not become unbalanced. It’s also very water repellent.

 

36 cans! Can't you get it in gallon containers and spray it on with an air gun.

I do myself with fluid film and the cost is a gallon of it every other year. I am only spraying four vehicles and two trailers.

 

Holy hell. I buy the 5 gallon bucket of NHOil for $245 shipped. I get ~3 applications with that, less after doing trailers, on my CCLB.

 

36 cans of Surface Shield??? Holy hell....

Like I said, I used 3, maybe 3 and a half cans and did the entire frame front to rear including receiver hitch, crossmembers, inside holes that I saw along the way, running board brackets, etc. It coated pretty thick. I live on a 1/2 mile gravel road so it got covered in gravel dust pretty fast.

 

’m an airframe mechanic, literally see rust and corrosion everyday at work.
Any piece of metal ‘that is exposed to the atmosphere’
will wick moisture from the air as temp changes. This moisture will condense in enclosed areas and pool up in these spaces. Moisture from the atmosphere is basically mineral free and therefore very corrosive.
Another concern was the aluminum body on the steel frame, these dissimilar metals may cause galvanic corrosion where they are connected.
So on airframes, where weight is the primary concern,
we use zinc-chromate,ACF-50, BoeshieldT-g
and Graphite but these are VERY EXPENSIVE. So, since weigh is not a concern on a truck , I decided to treat every part, that I could, with the best possible protection. 36 cans of PB surface shield inside the frame rails and all in-spaces, then I fogged these spaces with graphite. I used 12 cans of cosmoline on the exterior frame and non moving suspension parts,
Then coded these with graphite, to avoid organic matter and road dirt from sticking to the cosmoline.
I used dry spray graphite on the moving suspension parts, driveshafts, so they would not be thrown out of balance. And I also coded the exhaust with graphite only.
This was not easy, I removed the grill, the side “350 emblems” the front and dual rear wheel well liners and the spare tire to access hidden spaces. I had to drill a few 1/8 holes to treat hard to reach spaces, then I sealed, using flex tape, and after being treated inside, the frame rail holes, along the top and sides of the frame only, to stop water intrusion but still allowed them to drain.
I used cans, which were a lot easier to handle, with spray caps that had a 30 inch 1/8 tube with 5 way spray head to get into all the frame spaces.
My 24 F-350 Crew Cab DRW 8 foot has a ton of internal frame, body, front and the dual rear wells are cavernous.
One last note. By treating the outside of the frame, only, and leaving the inside of the frame unprotected,
The interaction of the electrons from the metal to the air will be concentrated to a specific unprotected piece or part. And the frame may look great on the outside as it is rotting on the inside.
I am going to use this truck to plow and retrieve my boat and trailer out of saltwater weekly, during the summer months. I added a magnesium disc to the rear sides of each frame rail as a sacrificial anode, and yes, because I know somebody will ask, I did use electrically ‘conductive’ grease between the frame rail and the magnesium disc anode.

I’m not a young guy, so I’m hoping this is the last truck or vehicle I have to buy. it cost me almost a years salary, and one day, I hope to pass this on to my grandson.

Total cost on the above was about $1200. Or close to one percent of what I paid for the truck. So if you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me. Eric.