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Hello everyone, I have a 1995 F150 extended cab, 5.8L E40D 2x4, 130,xxx miles which has been slowly leaking trans fluid while on a road trip. I was in Death Valley while it was around 120-130 degrees going up a mountain when it dumped all the trans fluid from my inspection cover on my bellhousing. I had heard the fluid boiling within the trans, using what I had on hand I flex sealed the inspection cover (I figured the fluid was better off in there than the ground) and refilled to full. My shotty repair has held and I was able to get the truck shipped home and drove about 3 miles since no issue. I am not a mechanic but I bought the truck to learn to fix it so I am willing to do the work myself. I am not sure which (if any) parts need to be replaced or if it could have been from low fluid levels plus extreme overheating. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Once the fluid is in the bellhousing it has already leaked out of the transmission. All you did was keep it from spilling on the ground.
This is a common problem with the E4OD. The torque converter hub seal (sometimes called the front seal) leaks when it gets hot. The fix is to replace the seal with one made from Viton. Practically any auto parts store should have one. While you've got the trans out and the torque converter off to replace this seal, I recommend replacing the bushing right behind the seal, too. And if the snout on the torque converter has any damage where the seal rides, replace the torque converter, too.
Once the fluid is in the bellhousing it has already leaked out of the transmission. All you did was keep it from spilling on the ground.
This is a common problem with the E4OD. The torque converter hub seal (sometimes called the front seal) leaks when it gets hot. The fix is to replace the seal with one made from Viton. Practically any auto parts store should have one. While you've got the trans out and the torque converter off to replace this seal, I recommend replacing the bushing right behind the seal, too. And if the snout on the torque converter has any damage where the seal rides, replace the torque converter, too.
Mark,
At the risk of highjacking this thread, can that front bushing be replaced with normal hand (shop) tools, or does it require a special tool? I ask because I'm going to be removing the drivetrain from my '92 F150 and installing it into my '68 F250....and my front seal leaks a little as well. And as long as I'm in there....
I recently rebuilt my E4OD and all the bushings were replaced. The pump should be taken apart and disassembled so you can press the bushing out. Then you need to press the new one in. Done wrong, you will ruin the new bushing. You need to check it on the converter to make certain it's not too tight.
If I were you and had the early transmission, I would really think about just replacing the pump with the update/larger pump. That should be just a part replacement [you need to take the filter out]
I recently rebuilt my E4OD and all the bushings were replaced. The pump should be taken apart and disassembled so you can press the bushing out. Then you need to press the new one in. Done wrong, you will ruin the new bushing. You need to check it on the converter to make certain it's not too tight.
If I were you and had the early transmission, I would really think about just replacing the pump with the update/larger pump. That should be just a part replacement [you need to take the filter out]
Thanks. I'm going to start a new thread (w/some E4OD questions) so I don't highjack this one.
I can speak to this as this happened to me. The front seal on these is fairly notorious for letting go, especially in heat. Mine was pouring fluid out and at about your 130k, 6 years ago. I spoke to 3or 4 tranny shops and they said rebuild, $2600. Spoke to one that a guy at work told me about and he said yea right, replace the seal and the torque converter. Something about the torque converter being part of the issue. I had this done 5 years ago for just under a grand. Truck has nearly 160k now and has been fantastic. The same shop fixed a list of smaller issues they found and came in under the estimate. Find a good shop and have them check this. I bet this is your issue.
All too often, clients have selective hearing and when you repair the leak [bushing, pump, converter, etc] AND the transmission fails a short time later, clients come in upset and yell and scream that you ruined their transmission and expect you to fix it for free.
I run a shop and I am very clear about what I do, I have yet to have any issues with this scenario but the time will come.
That is probably the main reason why most shops will recommend a complete rebuild. There is no one with X-ray eyes that can see what damage/wear that is in the transmission unless it comes apart. All apart, not just the front part. It is amazing what clients will say vs what the bad parts are showing you. I remember working on a car with melted plastic internal engine parts. The client said they never overheated it.
I don't think there are many good shops out there, not all want to steal from you. Many of them make decisions based on past experiences and not all clients are good people.
I agree with you. The shop was very clear about the risk and told me how they were going to make sure the fix would work. For example inspecting the filter and cutting it open etc. Being hands on and having real mechanics as a dad and grandpa I knew to stop driving when I saw the fluid and having it towed etc so I knew likely I hadn’t done any major damage yet.
There’s a lot of poor customers, I totally get it. I had the same trans shop do a fluid change on my van and found it was leaking. The van has an rtv only seal as I understand (2014 caravan) and had issues with the dealer getting it sealed once. I took it back to the shop for them to fix it after I got it back. I tried to pay them and they wouldn’t. I had no idea if they had the pan off or not.
I am old school and if I am trying to fix something [without parts] if I feel the fix is good, I stand by my repair. If the repair does not last and I need to replace the part, I typically do not charge additional labor. That way, the client understands that I am in it 100% that the problem is fixed, since no shop wants to do it for free in a few weeks.
Good shops will explain the problems about 'fixes'. Most shops will make more money replacing parts [and have less comebacks] so if someone wants to fix it, then they just might be making less money. Certainly not a lot of shops want to do that. Those that do, are usually fairly successful and booked up.