2005 crank no start
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: NH
2005 crank no start
Note - truck has been exhibiting long cranks to start - both hot and cold - black smoke upon acceleration, rough idle especially after startup, and a small amount of surging. Otherwise - once its running - it runs OK.
New ICP valve and EGR valve within last 500 miles. New ICP pigtail. Yesterday morning did both fuel filters. Truck started after long crank; drove it 100 miles last evening. Ran and started same as before.
Unfortunately it won't start this morning. I cranked long enough for a hot electrical smell and some smoke to appear under hood.
FICM sync is good; did STC fitting last year as well as stand pipes and dummy plugs (due to a crank no start issue last summer). Tach reads a couple hundred RPM while cranking. FORScan indicates more than enough ICP pressure to start. IPR goes to 84%.
Is this an IPR problem? Can a bad IPR cause a crank no start?
My driveway is narrow at the end with stone posts and gates - wide as you go back to the garage. Of course the dead F-350 dually is right at the end. Any help on what this issue could be would be appreciated.
New ICP valve and EGR valve within last 500 miles. New ICP pigtail. Yesterday morning did both fuel filters. Truck started after long crank; drove it 100 miles last evening. Ran and started same as before.
Unfortunately it won't start this morning. I cranked long enough for a hot electrical smell and some smoke to appear under hood.
FICM sync is good; did STC fitting last year as well as stand pipes and dummy plugs (due to a crank no start issue last summer). Tach reads a couple hundred RPM while cranking. FORScan indicates more than enough ICP pressure to start. IPR goes to 84%.
Is this an IPR problem? Can a bad IPR cause a crank no start?
My driveway is narrow at the end with stone posts and gates - wide as you go back to the garage. Of course the dead F-350 dually is right at the end. Any help on what this issue could be would be appreciated.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: NH
Fair enough. When I was cranking, the ICP showed higher actual pressure than what was desired. I don’t recall the exact number, but it was well above the threshold for starting. I’m suspecting the IPR isn’t functioning correctly but I wanted to know if it could indeed cause a crank no start by itself. I’d be surprised if there is another high pressure oil leak after what I fixed last year, but who knows.
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Seems it’s cranking slow
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,074
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Surging is a sign of IPR blockage leaky injector or boost issue
investigate Ipr your value for its maxed out
IPR screen may have become clogged and now it’s blown screen into IPR causing no start
Check IPR% at KOEO need 14-15%
then pull inspect IPR screen and plunger
investigate Ipr your value for its maxed out
IPR screen may have become clogged and now it’s blown screen into IPR causing no start
Check IPR% at KOEO need 14-15%
then pull inspect IPR screen and plunger
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Warsaw KY
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From: NH
IPR is out. Screen is perfect, but the larger o-ring is somewhat mashed on one side, and the small square sided oring right behind it is broken. Autozone has the Dorman kit in stock. Going to try it. Maybe pressure is leaking by, creating the long / no start. I’m hoping that’s the case because it’s a pain getting the IPR out.
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You can get just the o-ring kit for it, part # 3C3Z-9H529-A.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ion-3c3z9h529a
I would recommend using a thicker lube than oil when you install it (similar to the recommendation for the standpipes and dummy plugs). A silicone grease is good.
Might also be worth heating it up a bit in oil (say 175 degrees), then wiping the oil off, applying the silicone grease, then installing.
EDIT -
Also here:
https://dieselorings.com/products/48...creen-seal-kit
Dorman is junk, don't do it.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ion-3c3z9h529a
I would recommend using a thicker lube than oil when you install it (similar to the recommendation for the standpipes and dummy plugs). A silicone grease is good.
Might also be worth heating it up a bit in oil (say 175 degrees), then wiping the oil off, applying the silicone grease, then installing.
EDIT -
Also here:
https://dieselorings.com/products/48...creen-seal-kit
Dorman is junk, don't do it.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 302
Likes: 14
If I remember correctly, your IPR values should be around 22% at idle. IPR should not be above 85% @ WOT. My HPOP was going out and I was seeing HPOP pressures @ WOT around 2000psi and IPR was reading 83%.
When I pulled my truck apart (2003 F350), I did the pressure test on the HPOP and found no leaks which helped me confirm my HPOP was the issue.
When I pulled my truck apart (2003 F350), I did the pressure test on the HPOP and found no leaks which helped me confirm my HPOP was the issue.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 302
Likes: 14
Just make sure you monitor everything possible to figure out the no start. I would hate to assume anything till you are able to prove it with numbers. I doubt it is the HPOP, but untill ya find the source you need to rule out all possiblities. Granted, it will not run so HPOP values are not all accessible. It will be interesting to see what you find on the leak test.
Hope the best for ya and I pray ya find the problem quickly!!!
Hope the best for ya and I pray ya find the problem quickly!!!
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