Hi all,

I have a 96 f150 4x4 with a 5.8, an e4od, and IIRC 264k on the clock, and it's time for a transmission rebuild. Right now, I'm planning on giving this place a call Brian's Truck Shop (brianstruckshop.com) to schedule a rebuild. I'm currently working overseas, and my parents have my truck. I'll have their local mechanic (who I trust to do good work) drop my trans, ship it to Brian, and then reinstall. Once the transmission is taken care of, it will be time to start collecting parts for an engine rebuild, and it will make more torque than stock once that is done, so the trans rebuild also needs to be an improvement and not just replacement.

My questions are these.

My truck is a 96, but it was built in November of 95. Does that make a difference on what's inside the transmission? I know the e4od was substantially strengthened in 96, but I don't know when exactly that change happened.

When I bought the truck in 2016, the OD button on the gear shift lever was missing. I replaced it, and the new button promptly fell off too. During the brief period while it was on there though, I noticed that pushing the button didn't turn on the OD Off light or make the trans shift out of OD. What will need to be done to make that work like it's supposed to?

The truck has a tow package, so it has an auxiliary cooler. Would you recommend replacing the cooler along with the trans, or will it be fine to keep the factory cooler?

In the opinion of the forum, would it be worthwhile to install an in line filter on the cooler line?

Should I consider having the transfer case rebuilt also? The previous owner was abusive, and I know he used this truck as his hunting truck. I've already rebuilt the rear end due to how he treated things. I don't find myself needing 4wd really often and I haven't had any trouble with the t-case yet, but it does have 264k miles on it.

Thanks,
Greg

 

I've got a similar situation.

I have a 95 F250/5.8/2WD/E4OD. I have less than 130k on it. When it is on the road, it is towing a 5th wheel. For the last 20+ years, it has had a Kenne-Bell supercharger on it.

I want more power so I am building a 408 and still plan on using the supercharger. I elected to buy a core E4OD [95] and went through everything. I ended up using the 6 planet steel gear sets as well as the 4 planet steel OD gearset. All the clutch packs have more clutches. Not just using the thin versions, but the full thickness clutches. To do this, I had to purchase some larger drums to hold the clutches and machine the stock units to get one more to fit. I did use some Raybestos GPz discs and kolene plates. A Tugger shift kit was installed too.

With the cooler, I had the stock optional cooler, aftermarket cooler, as well as the stock radiator cooler. A few weeks ago, I removed the stock optional cooler and put in a cooler that is used in the 6.0 diesel. When I did that, I took out the 5/16th cooler lines and made new ones using 3/8 lines. I had to bend my own. I used the controversial bypass line used on the 4R100 since they have the fittings that would accept the 3/8th line fittings. I just went on a short trip [outside temps 70-80F] and the transmission never exceeded 145F. Basically a shake down trip to confirm there are no leaks and that it worked. The temperature dropped about 20F.

While doing the cooler modifications, I sealed all the areas where air could bypass coolers, condenser, and radiator. Basically, if the air goes through the grill, the only outlet is through the coolers.

If you have a good rebuilder, then they will know what to do on the inside. I think most of the internals on mine originated in a diesel. 4R100 probably had the most heavy duty stuff, but some of the E4OD are good. the 96 is a good start.

One thing to think about, with a lot of updates, expect to have some issues with hard shifting. The program that is in your ECU is designed to work for your stock transmission. The more you change, the more likely that some of the shifts may be too firm in certain circumstances. The only way to resolve that is time behind a computer and disassembly of the transmission valve body to get the accumulators just right. That is where I am. There really is no one to go to since I am the one who built this one of a kind transmission. A good builder should know what works with your factory computer or at least should.

 

I’ve only heard good things about Brian’s shop. I would call him directly and discuss your build and what you use the truck for. He’ll guide you in the right direction for any upgrades. Shift kits to firm up your shifts, he can guide you there too.

I tried a couple different variations for shift kits, and settled on the Transgo Tugger on my ‘96, along with a few other minor mods, and oem solenoid body. There’s various firmness to set up the accumulator body, valve bodies, and tq converter lockup - if you wish to get into any of that yourself, otherwise you can just leave it all stock. Again, Brian’s can guide you through it.

Afaik, you should have the ‘96 E4OD. I’d recommend a temp gauge if you’re working it. And a new cooler, just due to age and not having to deal with trying to clean the old one - minor expense in the grand scheme.

 

Thanks 1Butcher and JJF250,

In my research, I've also only seen good things about Brian. That and the fact that he isn't super far away from my parents are the reasons that I decided to go with him. I'm working on a list of questions to ask him once I've got him on the phone. However, I see he only does transmissions, not transfer cases. Can anybody offer any insight on the durability of the t-cases on these trucks? Mine is a manual t-case FWIW.

And another question. I really have no idea how to pick out a torque convertor. Any ideas on that? Or any resources I can look at? Or is that a question that I should ask Brian?

 

I own a repair shop and the best thing you can do is think about exactly what you want and make certain he understands that. If there is any lack of communication/understanding with that, usually the results are not good for either party. Define 'Firm'. What is firm for someone could be harsh for someone else. Sometimes it's tough figuring out what people really want.

Everyone likes to have more power, but many times, that power comes on at an RPM nobody likes. Good luck with a torque converter. I suspect the only way you will find a good one is to drive several different versions with different stall speeds [kind of like camshafts]. Sadly, that is not easy/easy to do. You might want to ask them if there is someone that has a similar set up that you are looking for and see if you could take a ride with them. I suspect if you paid someone for an 'Uber' ride, you could get a lot of information that would be worth paying double for.

 

+1 for the new cooler. You can flush the lines with brake cleaner.

If you have the Borg-Warner 1356 transfer case, there are two common problems (copy-paste from somewhere I don't remember)...

"There are 2 very common failures in the 1356, and both are attributed to wear that apparently Borg Warner never took into consideration.

The 1st issue is more common. There is a small triangular shaped tab that indexes from the main shaft into a small recess in the aluminum housing of the transfer case. This tab is a part of the oiling system, and slowly wears into the case as you use the truck, and quite rapidly. Eventually, when it wears through enough, the triangle goes for a ride into the rest of the case and typically mangles one or both of your shift forks, causing issues with the transfer case staying in gear, or going into gear at all.

The 2nd issue is not one that I have seen very often, except for trucks that were used a lot for plowing or offroad, where shifting into 4 wheel drive more often than what would be "normal" occurs, or have a ton of miles on them. The "shift shaft" that attaches to the long bar, that runs through your transfer case, into the housing, and physically moves the forks around on what is referred to as a "rooster comb" wears into the case. The hole that the shaft runs through has no bearing or bushing surface. It is steel shaft on aluminum case. What happens is this hole ovals out, and the shift forks are no longer riding on the comb. The comb gets pushed to one side, and the forks are free to ride wherever they please, often causing a case where they become "lodged" in a position and then as you drive and they are jostled around, become dislodged and pop out of gear, as you are describing. The last of these that I fixed, the shaft did not seem to have any play in it, as the fork was pinning the rooster comb to one side and pinching the shaft, making it seem like it was tight."

You can fix the first problem easily if you have someone who can weld stainless steel. I didn't have the second problem, so I can offer no insight into it.

If you want to do the rebuild, you'll find info on this forum, and these are good also https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...-bw1356.135334, https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...-bw1356.497458.

 

I took a look around and a transfer case rebuild looks doable. I'll add it to my list of things that need to be done whenever I'm stateside for long enough to make it worth the trouble...whenever that will be.

I'll make sure to have a good talk with BTS about torque convertor options. I'll talk it over with the shop that will do the removal and reinstallation too to get their perspective. I'll specify "soft enough shifts that my mom is willing to continue driving my truck while I'm overseas."

I've seen people recommend adding a remote oil filter in the line going to the cooler. That's something that I could do myself in an hour or two sometime when I'm home. I don't need to have a shop do it. But since I'm asking questions, is it worthwhile or overkill?

Also, any thoughts on aftermarket pans? I'd like to have a drain plug, but I don't want to decrease ground clearance right in the middle of my 20 foot long truck.

 

Overlanders and rock climbers might disagree on adding a drain plug (and I'll admit it isn't something you'll use often), but I drilled a hole at the arrow and installed one of these - https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-102227-090-048cd.aspx.



Remove the magnet and clean it well.
Wash the inside of the pan with a good degreaser.
Drill a hole for the new drain.
Sand the inside of the pan around the drain really well.
Sand/wire brush the inside parts of the drain.
Mount the new drain in the hole.
"Caulk" around the inside of the drain with some JB Weld.
Let it all cure properly before reassembly.
I've had one in mine for years and had no trouble with it.

I also recommend making a better gasket for the drain bolt. Some of that black plastic paper material works well, or anything that won't distort when you tighten the plug bolt. IOW, do not use an o-ring or soft rubber material.

 

I hope everyone had a good Independence Day. Mine was a doozy, but it was good, and it's over.

My truck is definitely not an overlander or rock crawler, but I do sometimes take it out into a pasture, and sometimes pastures have bumps or ruts that you don't notice until you're on top of them. I put a small dent into my trans pan a couple of years ago, right on the lowest part, where you installed your drain plug, Seschenburg. But I've also pulled the pan before and dropping a pan full of fluid is no fun. I've seen some aftermarket pans that put the drain plug on the side where it's less vulnerable, but a lot of those add depth. I wouldn't mind adding some pan capacity, but I don't want to add any depth. And, of course, most sources don't even list the depth of a stock or oem replacement pan and being 7000 miles away from my truck makes it hard to go out and measure for myself. Hence my question about aftermarket pans.

 

You should get this one - https://bowlertransmissions.com/prod...n-pan-bpt-9323. It even has fins to keep you from drifting as you roll down the highway. (jk. I laughed when I saw the price.)

But seriously, I've heard that the 4R100 pans are a little bigger and already have a drain plug. Sorry, I don't have measurements to share.

 

I just used a Doorman 265805 with drain plug (4wd). Fit well, no issues. Check your gasket, it might take a different gasket. I made that mistake, and McLeod on here caught it in a picture before I put fluid in it… My original 96 pan had ‘stand-offs’ on the pan, and used a non reusable gasket. The new type uses a reusable gasket iirc - best to double check.

If you’re knocking pans / plugs, it’s probably time for skid plates… lol.

 

I was actually looking at this pan Moroso 42050 Moroso Transmission Pans | Summit Racing It doesn't have the guidance fins though, which probably accounts for the price difference. And FWIW, I've seen more laughable prices than yours, seschenburg. Look around on Summit. You'll see.

JJF250, I have no idea what I hit to put the dent in my pan, but I don't figure it put itself there, so I must have hit something. I've looked around for skid plates for OBS Fords and always come up empty. I haven't found any in junkyards either. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools to fabricate one at home, or I'd make my own

 

I picked up a 4R100 used for $50, for the pan.
came from a 4x4, is deeper and has drain plug.
have to remember to use the longer filter.

 

That one does look sturdy. If you knew a welder you could probably have a similar one made out of 1/4" plate steel. Just be sure to provide a sump for the filter pickup tube. If I remember right, the pan also helps support the filter, so that should be in the design.

But, now that I think about it, I'd rather have a dent than a broken transmission mount.

 

Hmm. You bring up a good point. It might be a good idea to consider the trans pan to be a wear item and just replace it if it gets dented. Thanks. You may have just saved me some money.