top end work - what all do I need (gaskets, etc)
The STC kit seems to have most of what I'll need (has new IPR screen and seals as well).
At a minimum, I think I need intake manifold gaskets. If so, I was thinking Fel-Pro if they are well regarded.
Should I buy the injector o-ring kits (Alliant) and re-do those while I'm in there? FYI, Ford seals were installed when the engine was swapped before I bought it (per the invoice). About 11,000 miles since the swap.
Would new valve cover gaskets be prudent? They aren't leaking now, but I've no idea how old they are.
While not specifically related to the above, I was thinking of adding exhaust manifold gaskets to get a better seal. I'm not aware of any specific leaks, but I do get some exhaust smell in the cab at times and I'd like to be sure I'm not losing any potential boost. Is it worthwhile to do that? If I do those, I would also add gaskets to the manifold to up-pipe junctions.
We don't put a lot of miles on the truck, so I'm hoping to do this once and have it be good for a good while. Famous last words, I know!
Stu
I was a big advocate for the reliability of these trucks in the very early days - assuming that all the right things are done to them (and done in the right way). Many people had multiple failures of 6.0L's in the early days and it is my opinion that many/most times the common denominator was the owner. I decided way back then to stay active and post updates - just to prove or disprove my early opinions. So far so good. I do not believe in chance reliability with the 6.0L, but it can be had (knowledge and effort).
My philosophy is to just bite the bullet and do the manifold and the valve cover gaskets. Just not a lot of money, and the OEM ones do quite well.
I also am a firm believer in the exhaust manifold gaskets. They have worked out very well in my truck. That said, I do not drive in high salt areas, but IMO that would probably just add to the benefit of using the gaskets. I wish I had used stainless bolts, or the (expensive) titanium bolts - just because I too am in the one-and-done mode. I have no long term experience with running without the gaskets. I had no issues w/ the exhaust manifold bolts at 100k miles, but that was a long time ago.
I envy you in the Ex that you have. I wish I had one, especially since you have the cast iron HPOP. Be sure to get an OEM STC fitting kit and with seals and gaskets, stay with Ford or Alliant.
OEM IPR's are an absolute must IMO.
Some have made the case that the newer standpipes from Ford have been changed and are not as reliable. I am not sure about that, but assuming the ones that you have bought are genuine OEM, then you should be OK. I would probably just buy an o-ring kit for them and have them on hand. If the standpipes and dummy plugs that are in the truck have the 12mm Hex head, then hang onto them! @Hartwig has good advice on this (and on installation).
Also - keep an eye on the oil level (and I would encourage a few oil samples being done). Keeping fuel dilution of the oil under control is a CRITICAL task IMO.
I don't put a lot of miles on mine either, but PLEASE do not let it sit unattended for LONG periods of times. Mice, rats, squirrels ....... they can be brutal under the hood! After I do a final service on my differentials, the Power Steering fluid and filter, and the transmission fluid and filter, I am expecting a BUNCH of reliable (and maintenance free years). That said, I am still on the original injectors, so they might just demand some attention in the near future, but not a big deal.
There are a few things you should do while under the hood. The plastic heater hose "Wye's" are prone to failure and should be changed out (I believe you have two). I believe you have two of them - and you would do well to change them out. One option is the link below:
https://www.rothsugarbush.com/produc...s-x-ins-x-ins/
Also, the pickup tube in the fuel tank should be addressed, and the fuel pump relay in the central junction box should be addressed. Most people just stop at the "blue spring" but these other mods are virtually just as important. ANYTHING that can cause low fuel pressure or air in the fuel can jeopardize expensive injectors!
I have had a very good experience with my power steering fluid filter and frequent flushes. It is worth considering. The manual fan control is a good option, just in case you ever see temps start to get high. It is my opinion that MANY things under the hood last longer with cooler temps.
Cab Mount bushings - I replaced mine and they are doing well (OEM), but I wish I had gone with the S&B ones.
If you ever have to do ball joints, I am absolutely blown away at how strong and reliable the ones from DynaTrac are. Early on I put them through some tough service and they are still great!
Might be a good time to just replace glow plugs and the harness if you haven't already, and then if the CMP and CKP are easy to get to, then do those.
EDIT: And make absolutely sure that the EGR cooler is one from BulletProofDiesel!
Probably more, but I thought I would just ramble a bit here - hopefully you don't mind.
It's an F250 (though an Ex with this color scheme would be cool!); it just has a mixed engine config similar to an Ex per what I was able to learn from you in the other thread.
I will definitely look at replacing the wyes. I was planning to do a coolant flush anyway, so that'll be a good time to address this.
I'll need to search on the steering fluid filter topic; hadn't looked at it yet, but think it would be a good idea to protect my newer steering gear.
Good to know on the ball joints. I did them when I bought the truck using Moog greasable parts. Hopefully good to go, but will keep note of the DynaTrac units if I do need to go there again. I rebuilt most of the front end (ball joints, u-joints, seals, drag link, pitman arm, steering gear, hub seals) because the steering was horrible when I bought it; I basically only have the springs left to do.
I did the cab mounts using Energy Suspension busings; they are a little harsh. I think the silcone kits like S&B would have been better, and may do that at some point in the future.
At minimum I'm going to inspect the CMP and CKP plugs/harnesses since I had that no-sync issue; if the sensors are reasonable I will consider doing them as preventative maintenance while the truck is down. In addition I really need to find root cause for what happened there. If anything is boogered up I'll probably get the pigtails you linked in the other thread to fix them.
I know all too well about rodents. My old F150 had to be parked outside all of the time, and I had to fix the IACV wiring probably 5 or 6 times, and a couple of the injectors a time or two as well. Fortunately I cleaned out the third bay of our garage and will have the truck in there when not being used; that should mostly address that issue. In addition, when it is outside I have one of those electronic pest repellers that runs off the battery. It seems to help.
EGR was deleted by the previous owner, so planning to leave it that way since I'd need a new up-pipe and a cooler
. I will check that the respective pieces of the delete are still good.
I think that'll cover me for the main items outside of getting the wye, and I'll just have to adjust if I find any issues while I'm in there. Thanks again for the recommendations.
For those interested, the EHK1 gasket kit is a comprehensive kit put together to install a new long block into your truck, per the description. Here are the gaskets/seals it includes:
Last edited by MotoStu; Jun 28, 2024 at 09:14 PM. Reason: added info on gasket kit








