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I noticed your MAP PID did not report any data, but it was also logging in Hz instead of PSI. I would start by checking to make sure the MAP sensor is working. On a cold engine, with the engine off and ignition on, EBP, MAP and BARO should be within .5 PSI of each other. The odd ball is suspected bad and should be replaced or troubleshot.
Charted data is pasted below and chart is attached.
BARO, MAP and EBP are all basically the same one was .1 % different.
Definitely can see your rough idle there. Here is a comparison between your file and one from my truck. The vertical scales have been adjusted to better see the data:
Air in fuel is a good thing to rule out.
Does the idle smooth out if you unplug the ICP sensor?
If not, the next thing we recommend is to clean/reseal the IPR valve, or replace it with a Motorcraft part from a reputable seller. That part has a large effect on idle quality.
no noticeable change when unplugging the ICP. I will get a new IPR coming ASAP. I noticed the pigtail for the IPR was greasy so I’ll replace that as well. Thanks again.
Honestly though, based on your ICP and IPRDC% numbers I'd be surprised if cleaning or replacing the valve would have much of an effect. The air in fuel would be a more likely suspect based on the numbers. Whatever you do, don't throw away the old valve if you do decide to replace it.
Honestly though, based on your ICP and IPRDC% numbers I'd be surprised if cleaning or replacing the valve would have much of an effect. The air in fuel would be a more likely suspect based on the numbers. Whatever you do, don't throw away the old valve if you do decide to replace it.
I ordered an IPR and a rebuild kit. Gonna install the new one and rebuild the old one and hang on to it.
Ok fellas I got the proper BT dongle and replaced the IPR and pigtail. The behavior of the truck is much better. Throttle response is crisp and I picked up 3.5 mpg. BUT i still have a rough idle. I have made another data log of a 1 min idle with new dongle and will post it here as well as the codes from the PCM. I appreciate any help you boys give.
Your idle is showing smoother than last time, but IPR% is lower than normal, and PW is higher than normal. It's acting like a counterfeit IPR. Where did you buy the IPR, and what brand did you purchase?
Your idle is smoother, but IPR% is lower than normal, and PW is higher than normal. It's acting like a counterfeit IPR. Where did you buy the IPR, and what brand did you purchase?
Your VPWR is sitting at 12.5V. The engine shows warmed up, so thinking the glow plugs should not be on. What do you measure at the batteries for voltage when the engine is idling?
Your VPWR is sitting at 12.5V. The engine shows warmed up, so thinking the glow plugs should not be on. What do you measure at the batteries for voltage when the engine is idling?
That’s right. Or, you can hit “play“ and it will begin recording in your driveway and then you can drive to where you want to do the wide-open throttle run. That normal driving data can sometimes be helpful. Then do your wide-open throttle run where it’s clear and safe. You can keep it recording and drive home and hit stop, save the file as a CSV and send it to us
would you also unplug the ICP sensor and record a one minute idle? I want to see if the pulse width goes back to normal at least. i’m wondering if the ICP sensor has a bias to it. Could you post a picture of it? Want to check if it’s OEM.
you might’ve said this already, but is the ICP sensor connection dry – no oil in it?
That's a good file you posted. The PID charting tool in Excel will take the whole thing, and one can scroll to the interesting parts. Here is your WOT run. For a stock truck, it looks good to me:
ICP is 2800psi, IPR% commanded 35% and level, normal WOT PW of around 3ms. Boost (MGP) is 15psi. APP% is 75, which is a typical pedal-to-the-floor reading.
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