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Those are both cat codes. I'm not bulishltlting ya when i say to go out and drive it hard....that code may clear with some really hot pulls. At the very least, I bet it idled better even if the code doesn't clear......after a multitude of high rpm rips of course.
I took it back out on the highway for 20 minutes, pressed to the floor a dozen times, each getting rpms to the 5k region in 3rd gear manual shift for a brief moment before getting a speeding ticket. I'm not pulling any weight yet it is not responsive at all, still sluggish like a 4 cyl towing a big trailer. Even in park, foot to the floor and it takes a second to slowly rev up. When you say 'good pull', am I being to easy on it or should I try running it harder, maybe add some weight? Any suggestions are worth a try and greatly appreciated. I tried taking the air snorkel and housing off of the throttle body to spray cleaner in it while running but it won't stay running without being connected.
You don't have to go go out of your way necessarily, or go over the speed limit. Whenever you get a convenient opportunity to floor or through a few gears, do it. Like merging onto a 55mph road from a stop, going up a huge grade on the highway (if you live in mountains), etc etc. Pulling a trailer would be better, for sure.
Downshifting helps too, when slowing down to a red-light or going down a steep grade, manually downshift to 3500 or 4000
You don't have to go go out of your way necessarily, or go over the speed limit. Whenever you get a convenient opportunity to floor or through a few gears, do it. Like merging onto a 55mph road from a stop, going up a huge grade on the highway (if you live in mountains), etc etc. Pulling a trailer would be better, for sure.
Downshifting helps too, when slowing down to a red-light or going down a steep grade, manually downshift to 3500 or 4000
Update. I added a 2nd can of seafoam to 1/2 a tank of fuel, drove around for an hour constantly revving the engine up to 4-5k, light was still on. Disconnected the battery, removed and cleaned the dirty throttle body, cleaned the MAF, connected the battery back up. Engine light was off, possibly from disconnecting the battery but maybe not? I didn't clear the codes. The idle was much better. Drove around 3 separate times and the light has not yet come back on. I'll continue to drive it and hopefully it'll get some further power as the cleaner works through. I'll post results in a few days. Thank you very much 89F2urd. I found out how to check idle hours, it has 6100 idle hours. For now, on to other weird issues. I'll start a new thread.
Update. I added a 2nd can of seafoam to 1/2 a tank of fuel, drove around for an hour constantly revving the engine up to 4-5k, light was still on. Disconnected the battery, removed and cleaned the dirty throttle body, cleaned the MAF, connected the battery back up. Engine light was off, possibly from disconnecting the battery but maybe not? I didn't clear the codes. The idle was much better. Drove around 3 separate times and the light has not yet come back on. I'll continue to drive it and hopefully it'll get some further power as the cleaner works through. I'll post results in a few days. Thank you very much 89F2urd. I found out how to check idle hours, it has 6100 idle hours. For now, on to other weird issues. I'll start a new thread.
6100 is a lot of idle hours, but nothing to deem a 6.2 trash........that amount of idle hours definitely contributed to the carbon deposits. What you're dealing with has to be viewed in the form of "trajectory". The "trajectory" of how your engine runs is continuing to be for be for the better, and that's all that matters. Your mission should be, this thread or another, to make it run the best it can. Don't ever waste the opportunity to floor it as it relates to what has been discussed in this thread. The dirtiest engines are those that are idled forever and/or driven like grandma. They have to be cleaned out.
Glad you;re moving in the right direction, feel free to come back to this thread in addition to wherever else you decide to post.
6100 is a lot of idle hours, but nothing to deem a 6.2 trash........that amount of idle hours definitely contributed to the carbon deposits. What you're dealing with has to be viewed in the form of "trajectory". The "trajectory" of how your engine runs is continuing to be for be for the better, and that's all that matters. Your mission should be, this thread or another, to make it run the best it can. Don't ever waste the opportunity to floor it as it relates to what has been discussed in this thread. The dirtiest engines are those that are idled forever and/or driven like grandma. They have to be cleaned out.
Glad you;re moving in the right direction, feel free to come back to this thread in addition to wherever else you decide to post.
I will do that, and I believe it will get better as the cleaner runs through as well. I was looking for sources of a mysterious quacking sound and noticed that my carrier bearing is rather worn so I'll back off and drive like normal until that's fixed but I will update for anyone else trying to figure out similar engine issues. I'll do a compression test on number 8 in a month or so.
Terrible site, plenty of advice, best advice, run the snot out of it. Got a 6.2 in a raptor and I’m not nice to it. I feed it good. Redline oil and sfr. But if your saying carbon build up, homie up top with the sea foam was right.
that tick you hear is your cam fazers. They can and will do that without being clogged. Sea foam the **** out of it, don’t worry bout the smoke or the clack. After it clears. Change oil. I recommend 5-30 redline or 10-40 and run the **** out the motor.
motors need beat hard. Oiled good and run up and down.
no joke. I ****ed around for an hour trying to get a log in to this site to tell you that a few people are correct and the majority are durpy.