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Hello, I’m going to be installing a stand alone computer for the E4OD soon and I’m familiar with some wiring but just need some help locating a 12v under the hood that has power being supplied during cranking and running. They say to use an ignition switched power wire
On the IDI, the fuel shutoff solenoid is On when key is On. There are a couple more and they all appear at the big Engine Connector at the passenger side inner fender.
I have a 1990 7.3 idi with e4od, it shift normal for about 10 minets then neutrals and I have to rev to 3500 rpm to hard shift, it is my wiring or solenoids?
when I first run it in drive it shifts normal in D for about 10 minutes then neutrals/ stays in clutch and will somewhat shift if I hit 3500 rpm but hard, when it does all that recently I've been taking the cap plug thing off that shuts the tach and everything off and I can manualy go 2nd to 3rd but I guess it need electronics to go into 1st manually because it works when plug is in, I would drive it like that but I cant pull trailer without first gear.
I have a 1990 7.3 idi with e4od, it shift normal for about 10 minets then neutrals and I have to rev to 3500 rpm to hard shift, it is my wiring or solenoids?
Originally Posted by cbelll
when I first run it in drive it shifts normal in D for about 10 minutes then neutrals/ stays in clutch and will somewhat shift if I hit 3500 rpm but hard, when it does all that recently I've been taking the cap plug thing off that shuts the tach and everything off and I can manualy go 2nd to 3rd but I guess it need electronics to go into 1st manually because it works when plug is in, I would drive it like that but I cant pull trailer without first gear.
Failed range sensor. (formerly called the MLPS) the large sensor located on the shift lever. Drivers side of trans.
Originally Posted by 4x4E350Ambo
Just use the constant 12v source from the EEC relay. It’s already intended for your transmission controller/trans so why not reuse it?
Exactly what I would use also.
(Don't forget to clip that stupid fuel heater line that's cheaply tied into this circuit! Like should be done to all IDI/E4OD trucks. To those who think they need a fuel filter heater, besides probably being wrong haha; run a new fused line for it. To those wise; not only cut it's power, but tap and plug it too! To those most stubborn; Fine, keep a fuel heater, but run your own fused line if you have the E4OD, tap and plug the oem leak point and get a universal wrap style filter instead.)
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