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I'm buying a 47 1 1/2 ton flatbed I want to have shipped. I need to have somebody go to where the truck is stored (I'm 400 miles away and don't want to go to pick it up) but some tires are trashed. So, I need to send someone who is local to the vehicle to fix the tire issues. He wants to know what size lug nuts the truck has. I owned the same type/year of truck many years ago but can't remember what size they were. I assume the front are the same as the back. Help.
Last edited by SMResident; Jun 9, 2024 at 11:58 AM.
Reason: incorrect spelling of title
Needs one of these. 1 1/2" for the lug nuts and 13/16" for the square stud. Take plenty of PB Blaster or 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Might need heat as well depending on how stuck the nuts are.
I would also recommend a torque multiplier. Even an inexpensive import would be worth while. Also be sure your helper knows about the reverse threads! As a bonus, a pork chop can help separate the inner and outer lugs.
I would also recommend a torque multiplier. Even an inexpensive import would be worth while. Also be sure your helper knows about the reverse threads! As a bonus, a pork chop can help separate the inner and outer lugs.
I'm well aware that some vehicles use right & left hand lug nuts and or lug bolts. However, maybe I didn't make it clear when I said I had owned the same exact model that that was decades ago so I don't remember specific details like thread directions on lugs. Possibly if you could more specific about front, rear, inner & outer wheels. As I said I will not be there to instruct the guy so need to clue him before he goes to do the job. This guy regularly works on 18 wheelers so would likely have knowledge about current trucks but little to none about this year vehicle. Thanks very much for your input so far.
It's easy to remember: Left hand threads on the left side of the vehicle; right hand threads on the right side. However, there have been some instances on the forum, that for whatever reason, things got weird, including hubs that have apparently swapped sides, or mixed studs because a proper replacement stud wasn't sourced. Usually the left handed hardware will have a "L" stamped on it somewhere, but it is NOT a given that it will be obvious or has remained legible.
One last possibly stupid question. The part with the square head that remains when you remove the lug "nut" and outer wheel I would assume is a lug "bolt" that holds the inner wheel on. Does that sound right? Unfortunately all 4 or 5 of the other '46's & '47's I had back in the day were 1 ton or smaller and I don't think I ever had to deal with the rear wheels on the 1 1/2 ton.
Looks delicious! Thanks but this guy I'm sending over to work on the truck regularly works on 18 wheelers so I think he said he has air and a 1" impact wrench that should handle it. Thanks fotr the info.
Looks delicious! Thanks but this guy I'm sending over to work on the truck regularly works on 18 wheelers so I think he said he has air and a 1" impact wrench that should handle it. Thanks fotr the info.
A prokchop helps separate the inner and outer lugs by preventing spinning allowing one to harness the power applied to the socket. Without it, there is no way to harness/apply the power of the socket, even a 1" impact.
User @Muppy1840 suggests a "Pork Chop" is necessary to deal with the rear wheels. Time is running out and seller is getting antsy and threatening to cancel the sale. Question: is this socket in your experience all that is necessary to deal with the rear wheels? I will probably only have to remove just the outer wheels to put them on the front for now. Also, where to purchase this socket ASAP? Thanks for your help.
what usely happens is the square inner nut usely stays rusted to the 1 1/2 nut . you can remove outside wheel but the square nut and 1 1/2 inch nut are stuck together on the outer wheel. i had never seen a porcshop its pretty neat ,we used to cut the assembly with a torch and install new nuts. thats where the porcshop would lock 1 1/2 nut while you remove the square one i guess !
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