Troops,
I have a 1970 Highboy, NP-435, OEM steering with Hedman headers. I'm needing to R&R the starter. I purchased a Hi-Torque mini but it needs to first be clocked before install. I have the header disconnected from the head and also separated the exhaust at the header collector on passenger side.

After much frustration, I have the original starter removed but, I need to get the header out so I can have the room to "clock" the new mini starter and install. Reading the instructions from Hedman, they state to: "Disconnect passenger side motor mount and raise right side of engine as high as possible without breaking fan shroud". You got to be kidding!!!! Just how high does it have to be raised? What about the strain on the tranny mount, etc. this produces?

Can anyone give me some incite?

I am tempted to break out my saws-all and cut out the headers and buy some Sanderson shorty's..... but, that's $500 bucks (for the plain steel ones) I don't really have.

 

I guess the highboy is a different beast than the 2wd. I was able to just unbolt em and disconnect from the tail pipe and remove them. I did have to notch the frame on passenger side to fit my long tubes in however and it took a lot of finesse and counting to 10 to get the starter back in that's for sure.

 

By the by I did my header removal starter removal header install and starter install wirh out ever disconnecting a motor mount.

 

I have a '68 f100, I have Hedmann's also. I remember my header installation instructions saying the truck had to be raised 36" since it had to go in from underneath maybe just the passenger side. I can't remember if I had to unbolt the mount or not. But it can't be that much because the trans. bellhousing will hit the body after more than a few inches and the fan shroud too as it says. If it was more than a few inches I think they'd have you unbolting BOTH mounts. You're just needing a couple inches and that makes all the difference in the world.
I've heard of "clocking" an alternator before but not a starter. It's usually done to allow the wiring to be in the same position. Unless the definition of clocking is different than that. One thing for sure is that headers are brutal on starter motors. I HIGHLY recommend that you get some type of insulation, heat wrap, blanket whatever you want to call it, for your starter. Maybe that's why you're going with a mini high torque starter??? Cooked the old one? It was turning over slow on hot start ups? Since you spent a small fortune on a mini starter spend a little on some heat wrap so it doesn't cook it too. It makes a HUGE difference. And some wrap for the starter cable too. You can also run a thicker cable down to your starter also. I use the Felpro header gaskets and a lot of ultra copper silicone.

 

Why cant you clock it close to where it needs to be and "pop" it in and see where you are at cant be all that hard.
BTW if you bought a starter from https://www.robbmcperformance.com/
You would never have a issue with clocking as you can clock it anywhere you want.
And the starters are made in the U.S.A.
I ran one in my AMC drag car and got one on the shelf for my AMC street car when the factory type starter ever goes south with the long tube headers.
Dave ----

 

Hi,

The replacement starter is a: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9606?rrec=true

It is infinitely clockable.

A measurement has also to be performed to see if a shime is required for flywheel gear clearance. This means the starter may have to be installed, measured, clocked many times to get it right.

While the starter's body is smaller and shorter than OEM, the mounting flange is the same size. Getting this large flange past the disconnected header is a royal PIA!!!!!

 

Not to be unsympathetic, but I stopped using headers years ago, this is one of the reasons why.

 

I tried doing it the way they suggested but it didn’t work for me. I was able to unbolt from the engine and exhaust and then pull it out from the top.

 

I know I can't pull the header out from the top without unbolting at least one? engine mount. I can get a stock starter out from the bottom if I completely unbolt the header and manipulate them both until it comes out. I've done that a few times. I would still wrap your mini with some insulation. It will last longer and won't tax your battery either.

 

I'm a little late to the party. My 2wd 68 had hooker headers. To change the starter I didn't need to remove the header completely. But i did need to unbolt the header and have the collector pointed at the ground to get the starter in and out

 

Update.

Pulled motor, installed min starter, Sanderson headers came in. Cleaning up motor. Hope to install tomorrow


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