You guys may know me as rider307g, but my company finally signed up and is now on this forum. I just brought in my 65 F100 with a 352FE motor and we are doing a header install but are looking at it to see what issues there are. If anyone has any feedback on problems they have had with their headers or concerns on why they did not work, please let me know and I will make sure my R&D dept. addresses each of them. I will post pictures when we are done and possible offer a special under the correct forum. Thanks in advance for all of the feedback.

 

On 2wd trucks, the biggest problems are, 1 heat, the headers cook the starter. And 2, when the starter goes out, you can not get the starter out with the header in place, you also can not get to header in place with the starter in the truck, catch 22 they hav to go in at the same time. On my 4x4, the passenger side header came in 3 pieces to go around the motor mount, real PITA to put on the truck.

 

I had headers on a 65 with 352 and you could not keep your feet on floorboard because of heat. Had to take header loose to get starter on.

 

Have a couple 65 F100 4X2 with headers installed on both and never had a starter problem. 1 has a 390 with 3 speed and previous owner installed Hedman long tube headers. The other has a 302 with a 4 speed and I installed Hooker long tube headers and felt the clearance on the passenger side header flange rest too close to the crossmember so used 4" grinding wheel and removed small amount of material. Needed to raise engine slightly and set the passenger side header into place then lowered the engine. Over last 35 plus years of abuse I can't recall needing to pull the starter, usually it's the clutch that's first to go. Did have a brain storm, actually came across idea by accident when I resealed our wood stove, there is a tubular insulation seal, or gasket, looks like a rope, that goes around the stove door and happens to be same inside dia. as the starter cable so cut a length from left over material and ran the cable thru it, really not nec. drove truck some 30 years before with no problem.

That being said, not sure if there would not be a total set of issues concerned truck with auto tranny, perhaps other FTE member can advise. Also, if considering the power steering upgrade and intend using the Bendix steering box then there will be a problem. I went with the Ford box and there was no clearance issue. If considering a 'do myself' exhaust pipe installation I used Hedman 'offset' extention tubes to get around the crossmember. Another options was posted by an FTE member where he modified the crossmember, looks basic where a shop or person with minor welding skill could do, I like it. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in and add my $.02

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=79912&width=0

 

another issue for the headers currently available is that they are for the later heads. 67 up casting dates. the exhaust ports for the earlier heads and almost all hi-po heads have a low exhaust exit. and most headers that are currently in production are for hi exhaust port position. therefore the stock heads on 65-66 ford pickups w/ an FE engine have a mismatch from the port from the heads to the headers resulting in exhaust leaks. Hooker super comp headers will match the ports on the hi-po heads including 428 cj heads but that is about the only aftermarket headers that will. thanks.

jim

 

I'll be watching this thread as I was just about to order Heddman ceramic coated headers from Summit. Because of heat issues I was debating whether or not to go ceramic, or painted with some header wrap. The front end is off and I'm waiting on the tranny shop to finish up my top loader. Factory exhaust manifolds are off and sitting in the bed. So this is the perfect time to put in the headers. If there is an alignment issue with the ports and the headers I may just throw the factory manifolds back on.

Think I'll move on to the rad support project while I'm watching this thread.

 

There are a few issues I can think of. One is with power steering boxes. The 66 with a 390 and power steering needed some custom denting to keep the header from tapping on the gearbox. Also the collectors need to turn down and outward a tad to properly clear the transmission crossmember and/or oilpan for automatics. Last but not least is thicker flanges to prevent warping over extended use.

 

OK, I will post some pictures either tomorrow or monday but I have been in the back looking at what my R&D engineer is up to and so far it looks like they are a great fit. The passenger side was definitely a bit tougher to install as everyone has mentioned, but there looks like there is enough clearance for everything. I would definitely go ceramic because if there is an issue with the starter or coolant lines getting hot, the ceramic will help with that. Our flanges are 3/8 thick and should not have any issues with leaks. My 352 does not have power steering, I have not done that swap yet, but will soon. I do however have a/c and the drivers side so far looks good. I will post pictures soon. Also, I may offer a group buy on these headers after investiing in the time I would like to show the company it was worth doing the install on the truck. Keep your eyes on the group buy forum and I will post something in the next few days. Thanks.

On a side note, does anyone have a 352 FE with power steering and a/c? I need to know how the power steering unit will mount with that big compressor hanging there.

 

Well said. My thoughts exactly!
BarnieTrk

_________________________
- 2WD '65 F100 short box, 390", T-18 4spd
- 2WD '65 F250 long box, 390", T170FT 4spd OD

 

dougthorleyheaders

I have done my homework on where the headers come out right in line with the tranny
crossmember, now while I understand the headers can't turn back any higher or lower, I
built the crossmember that dave linked to in his above post to address the problem!
No matter if you go low, or you run the header pipes high, they usually "Rattle".
I have took a look at trucks with all different engines and header brands and they all have
this same issue,the other problem is the radius arm crossmember it does need a small
notch also, I have saw a lot of trucks where people cut it all the way out, I really don't
like that at all! Thanks to Daveenglson for linking to my crossmember and the kind
words about it! Thanks!


P.S. It was pretty easy to make, But not for me I marked the crossmember and used a
( Hand Drill ) to cut the half circles by drilling lots of small holes and reaming them hole
to hole and when I got the pieces cut out, I touched them up with a grinder and then let
my ( Miller Welder ) do it's job.

P.S.s. If this wasn't an on going problem that I have dealt with for over 20 years, NO human
alive would have cut out a crossmember in this way. I have several other designs.

P.S.S.s I have used the same Hedman extension pipes that dave has, on a 77 Ford truck and
they knock all the time, at Idle, full throttle, pot holes,speed bumps etc. They are the closest
solution to this issue without pulling out the (Plasma Hand Drill) LOL!


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=79912&width=0


Wally Womack

 

Pro-Street, been posting your link for sometime now and could not recall whose gallery the pic's originated from. Thank you, edited the bookmark so now can include your name in the event another member had any questions could PM.

 

OK, like I promised, here are some pics. The install is not done, but I am almost there.

 

 

 

Why yes I do! (allthough the A/C is non-functional at the moment)

I too am following this closely as I am in the throws of a 390 build to replace my 352 and headers concern me for the above mentioned reason.