Help!!!!! How screwed am I?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 514
From: Yokosuka Japan
yeah but all the thrashing around and fighting back... you know that stuff gets old after a couple of times... in my experience...(did i say that??)
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
Update:
The way I work, if I get 2 hours a week to work on the truck I am lucky. That said, I now got all but one bolt out. Here lies the problem, the bolt is recessed about 1/8 of an inch in the hole. And I broke a screw extractor off in it. Any suggestions???
The way I work, if I get 2 hours a week to work on the truck I am lucky. That said, I now got all but one bolt out. Here lies the problem, the bolt is recessed about 1/8 of an inch in the hole. And I broke a screw extractor off in it. Any suggestions???
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 514
From: Yokosuka Japan
all youa re doing is welding to the top of the extractor to remove it. take a nut with a slightly smaller hole than the stock bolt and threads, weld through the hole to the extractor and then remove it. through another extractor in and have at it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
If you can get the nut to retain it's outer shape then you can put a socket on it. Hold a candle to the side of the nut as it's cooling and the heat will melt and draw the wax into the threads. One of the best ways to get a stubborn fastener to release.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 546
Likes: 261
Since I have a welder I rarely use extractors and it will work. Going with a smaller nut will help ensure you don’t bugger up the threads. Even then, you can still retap it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 514
From: Yokosuka Japan
exactly, get a slightly smaller nut and weld it to the broken extractor. back the extracter out and then try a new extractor, that or recenter the hole and drill it out to as close tot he threads as you can without buggering them. then try and easy out again. worst case you have replace the crank right? thats where you are at anyway.
To be honest i bet it would hold with 9 proper bolts and one half assed, but me being me I would drill, tap and or weld till I got it as right as possible as otherwise you are looking at a new crank or engine. necessity is the mother of all inventions. you might be surprised at what you can do to say paying for a new engine.
To be honest i bet it would hold with 9 proper bolts and one half assed, but me being me I would drill, tap and or weld till I got it as right as possible as otherwise you are looking at a new crank or engine. necessity is the mother of all inventions. you might be surprised at what you can do to say paying for a new engine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
Ken,
The "issue" with welding to the broken extractor is that is made from a high carbon steel...a steel that gets hard (and brittle) when welded. He might get it out doing as you state, as the bolt isn't rusted in place. I would try and put enough weld in the area to get some fusion to the parent bolt material....and that might still be somewhat brittle after welding.
The "issue" with welding to the broken extractor is that is made from a high carbon steel...a steel that gets hard (and brittle) when welded. He might get it out doing as you state, as the bolt isn't rusted in place. I would try and put enough weld in the area to get some fusion to the parent bolt material....and that might still be somewhat brittle after welding.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 56
Likes: 36
Ken,
The "issue" with welding to the broken extractor is that is made from a high carbon steel...a steel that gets hard (and brittle) when welded. He might get it out doing as you state, as the bolt isn't rusted in place. I would try and put enough weld in the area to get some fusion to the parent bolt material....and that might still be somewhat brittle after welding.
The "issue" with welding to the broken extractor is that is made from a high carbon steel...a steel that gets hard (and brittle) when welded. He might get it out doing as you state, as the bolt isn't rusted in place. I would try and put enough weld in the area to get some fusion to the parent bolt material....and that might still be somewhat brittle after welding.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,777
Likes: 863
From: Foothills of NC
Years ago I broke an easy out off when a crankshaft balancer bolt got cross threaded and broke off like yours are..
An older mechanic told me how to get the easy out removed, and it worked.
He told me to get several soft steel punches and beat on the hardened easy out with them and a good sized hammer.
He said the soft steel would deform and bend, the reason for getting several, but the big easy out would shatter because it was hard.
It took a couple of hours, but with three soft steel punches, the easy out broke into pieces every few blows until it was in a small enough piece to remove. I drilled out the rest of the bolt and chased the threads.
That saved me from buying a new crankshaft.
It does work.
An older mechanic told me how to get the easy out removed, and it worked.
He told me to get several soft steel punches and beat on the hardened easy out with them and a good sized hammer.
He said the soft steel would deform and bend, the reason for getting several, but the big easy out would shatter because it was hard.
It took a couple of hours, but with three soft steel punches, the easy out broke into pieces every few blows until it was in a small enough piece to remove. I drilled out the rest of the bolt and chased the threads.
That saved me from buying a new crankshaft.
It does work.
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