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Pretty much all the ignition switches are the same from F100 to CLT9000 just wired differently according to this.(note at bottom) Bit difficult to test without the key but at least you maybe able to trace the wires back.
Usually the wiring diagrams are in a fold out section of the shop manual. In the instrument section of the shop manual you'll find most of the wiring for the gauges and cab sections, split into delivery cab or longhaul cab.
No wiring in my 6-volume shop manual set. I've got pretty much the same "Part 33-71" in mine as you've posted above, but that's not a diagram. I'm used to working with both wiring diagrams and schematics, and neither are in my paper reprint set . . . and it wasn't cheap
As I said, its not a diagram, the wiring diagrams were usually in the supplement section to the shop manual. As I have them for the Aussie built ones. The later trucks included the wiring diagrams as a fold out at the back of the manual.
When Ford close here I manged to score all the fiche they were throwing out. Not much good for part numbers but good to see how it was put together using the exploded parts pictures.
If all you need is a key, take the switch to a locksmith. Cheaper yet, run a 12 volt jumper wire to the + side of the coil, and then jump from the small front pole to the big hot pole on the solenoid to get the starter to work..
If all you need is a key, take the switch to a locksmith.
Retired locksmith (amongst other things) here. Fitting a key to a Ford 5-tumbler lock used to be pretty easy, but a lot of "locksmiths" these days only know to drill & replace. We used to fit a key to that style Ign. for $25, but that's been a while ago.
Cheaper yet, run a 12 volt jumper wire to the + side of the coil . . .
This is old tech, and some of the finer points get lost over the years, as those of us how had to work with and diagnose/repair them, die off.
Do not forget that the Ford wire harness has an integral ballast resistor, so if you do that, run the engine only long enough to do what you need to do. Longer, it'll burn up the points (and coil).
The fender-mounted solenoid? Has two small wires? One of them is to trigger the solenoid (from the Ign. switch); the other is the ballast bypass wire, which feeds 12v to the coil while cranking only.
The coil runs at ~8v under Run conditions, and at cranking voltage (~11v, nominal) while cranking the starter.
I bought a '55 Ford Victoria when I was 15 for my first car. After painting it and getting it ready for me, I kept having problems with it starting hot and burning up points
The car had been converted to 12 volts and a 390 put in it. Turns out they left the 3 pole 6 volt solenoid in it and had 12 volts going to the points all the time. I was young and didn't know what was causing my problem until an older friend opened the hood and found the problem in less than a minute.
I put a Chrysler type resistor and a 4 wire solenoid in it and never had a problem again.
Definitely only use the 12 volt jumper wire just for testing a short time. Running it until it warms up or a little longer won't be enough time to hurt anything except you will probably need to change the points.
Due to the increased amount of wiring in the large trucks the wiring diagrams are often in their own supplement manual
A bit newer but my 93 F800 has a body manual, drive train manual and separate fold out wiring diagram manual
I believe my '89 Aerostar had a separate EVTM manual (Electrical, Vacuum & Troubleshooting Manual) with the diagrams. But, my '73 shop manual reprint of six volumes does not have electrical.
If they can’t find the key i will see what the locksmiths say around here. I cleaned up the solenoid and put two wires off the batt side. One for the coil, one to actuate the solenoid. I Turned it over till oil came out of a loosened oil pressure switch and for a bit more after tightening it up, then added fuel to the carb through the vent. It fired right away, a lot quicker than I expected. Added on my little 12v fuel transfer pump and ran it for several minutes. Sounded not too bad, except the y pipe had a couple holes in it. asavage sent a “might work” wiring diagram and it looks like what i saw on the truck. I see the resistor and solenoid bypass on start mode. Also Looks like some fuel pump bypass on start until oil pressure builds then there is the fuel boost switch in there too. You could jimmy up some jumpers for the ignition switch connector and make it work, but the key would be better.
Tip #1: As you can't remove the Ign. switch from the dash without a key (to turn it to a certain position? to allow the bezel off? It's been years, I can't recall, but one of those, and I can't be bothered to go look at the Shop Manual right now), you can save yourself some money: pull a door lock and transport it to the locksmith's location, and save the service call fee (for which we charged $60-150, depending on distance, back in the day).
This trick does not work for later 10-cut (key) Fords -- like my Aerostars -- or the even later 8-cuts, but does work for 5-cut locks like your '73.
Tip #2: If you decide to pull a door lock to do the above, pull the passenger door lock. Why? It'll have a lot less wear, and Ford 5-pin locks were really, really easy to fit a key via the Impressioning method back in the day, if they aren't worn. A good locksmith can impression a key to a Ford 5-pin lock whether it's new or worn, but less-worn pins (tumblers) make the job a lot easier, and Impressioning isn't as ubiquitous a skill in locksmithing as it used to be.
If they're just going to pop the cap and measure the tumblers, it doesn't matter which lock you take, much. If the door lock requires removing the scalp cap (destroying it) and the locksmith doesn't have the scalp cap kits we used to carry back in the day, Impressioning saves a lot of hassle and some cost . . . but does require practice and some learned skill.
I was fairly lousy at impressioning pin tumbler locks like the Fords -- wafer tumbler locks are much easier -- but even I could do it on not-worn-out Ford 5-cut locks.
The ignition switch came out NP. Two screwdrivers like undoing a bung on an oil drum.
With your tips I can spit out a couple things to the locksmith and look like I know something about it. Lol
Thank’s
