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Key twisted in ignition switch ?

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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 07:43 PM
  #1  
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Laughing Gas
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Key twisted in ignition switch ?

A few days ago my ignition key twisted in the ignition switch, its off maybe a 1/4" but the key is not bent or twisted, this happend out of nowhere. The van starts and runs fine and the key goes in and out fine and all the electrical works like it should. Its like something in the switch broke causing the key to not sit properly. kinda strange. Guess Ill have to pickup a new switch just in case this manifests into something more.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 04:56 AM
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How about listing WHAT you're working with here? Year, chassis, fuel type? Any images?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 06:47 AM
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Seems to me that there is a small hole under the switch that an 1/8th" drill bit goes into that allows the whole switch to be pulled out.Ck u-tube,that is how to remove the switch.I think the key has to be in a certain position.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 06:23 PM
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Laughing Gas
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Originally Posted by JWA
How about listing WHAT you're working with here? Year, chassis, fuel type? Any images?
Its in my sig. Not really asking a question, Just posting what happened.

Originally Posted by Rick1025
Seems to me that there is a small hole under the switch that an 1/8th" drill bit goes into that allows the whole switch to be pulled out.Ck u-tube,that is how to remove the switch.I think the key has to be in a certain position.
Yes, I have changed switches out before, but thanks, just need to find a quality replacement.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 08:12 PM
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Since the doors and ignition are the same I think I'd hit up the local locksmith. They usually have good parts and will regrind the key if it doesn't work. Of course you could always just have the 2 keys. These new ones with the key fobs built in are painful pricewise to replace.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaznaut
Since the doors and ignition are the same I think I'd hit up the local locksmith. They usually have good parts and will regrind the key if it doesn't work. Of course you could always just have the 2 keys. These new ones with the key fobs built in are painful pricewise to replace.
Ive always had 2 keys, one for ignition and one for doors, It never really bothered me.
I did away with the fobs because they kept breaking, the battery contacts and batteries would not seat properly even after glueing them in.

I was looking into the ingnition switches and theres 4 different ones and each one says a differnt cut number with a letter.
Number 1 cut letter A
Number 2 cut letter B
Number 3 cut letter C
Number 4 cut letter D

Anyone have any idea what switch I should get? I dont care about having 2 different keys, Ive always had 2.
Ive changed out ignition switches before and did not run into anything like this.

Thanks.

 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 08:33 PM
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1994 Club Wagon, 5.8, E4OD

Originally Posted by Spaznaut
Since the doors and ignition are the same I think I'd hit up the local locksmith. They usually have good parts and will regrind the key if it doesn't work. Of course you could always just have the 2 keys. These new ones with the key fobs built in are painful pricewise to replace.
Ive always had 2 keys, one for ignition and one for doors, It never really bothered me.
I did away with the fobs because they kept breaking, the battery contacts and batteries would not seat properly even after glueing them in.

I was looking into the ingnition switches and theres 4 different ones and each one says a differnt cut number with a letter.
Number 1 cut letter A
Number 2 cut letter B
Number 3 cut letter C
Number 4 cut letter D

Anyone have any idea what switch I should get? I dont care about having 2 different keys, Ive always had 2.
Ive changed out ignition switches before and did not run into anything like this.

Thanks.


 
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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Have you bought a new lock cylinder yet? I can walk you through fixing the existing one.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2020 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by LocksmithFL
Have you bought a new lock cylinder yet? I can walk you through fixing the existing one.
No, I have not. I dont want to buy a cheap one, but the motorcraft ones specify:
Number 1 cut letter A
Number 2 cut letter B
Number 3 cut letter C
Number 4 cut letter D
and I am not sure what one to get. The existing one seems to be worn and is snagging when I move from acc. to center then when I turn to start, the whole mechanism catches on something internal then the van starts.
I dont really want to fix the existing one as the key is worn really bad and it feels like the mechanism is about to fail and any time.
Thanks Locksmith.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 03:40 AM
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It's so you can have the same key work the ignition and doors.

The key has 10 spaces. The doors use spaces 1 through 6 and the ignition lock uses spaces 5 through 10. They share spaces 5 and 6. The 5 different replacement ignition lock will have each depth wafer in space 5, skip space 6 and random wafers in 7 through 10. If you know what depth space 5 is on your door key then you know what ignition lock cylinder to buy. Then you go to a locksmith and have them cut all 10 cuts on to a new key and you have one key for all.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 09:58 AM
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So I can buy any of them and it will work?

I already have a door key and dont mind having 2 keys but thanks for the info.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 10:30 AM
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Yes. Any of them will work.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by LocksmithFL
Yes. Any of them will work.
Cool, thanks.

I went ahead with the cheap switch. I guess its a common brand (never heard of it) because all the parts stores sell the same exact one. I would have had to wait a couple days for the motorcraft and the switch was getting worse.
I took a good look at it and it did not feel bad/cheesy so I went ahead and installed it. After install it feels very firm and no more loose wonkyness
The reviews of this particular brand switch were mostly positive. Made in mexico, not china
 
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