So my coil spring pockets are shot, at least the passenger side one, rusted and flaking apart, multiple cracks inches long. I believe after a couple years of replacement parts being unavailable they seem to be in stock now (but I need to double check). I have a two week break coming up soon and would like to work on the truck. I'm trying to figure out the scope of what I should do and get parts ordered asap...

If I am dropping the axle its good time to replace anything... what all should I do? Almost everything is original besides disks and the drag link I replaced a while back. 2009 with about 190,000.

The factory calipers have been a pita... the have once a year or so got stuck. I should've replaced them all along, but keep relubing them and putting back together. If I replace now is there something better than OEM Motercraft? Usually I like to stick with that, but these things have been quite problematic.

Also I heard the ball joints usually fail, I'm probably lucky mine seem fine at nearly 200k but maybe should replace? Is there a consensus on best? What about U-joints?

Any other bushing or bearing or anything I should replace? The whole front end is super rusty. I feel disgusted looking at it now, Ford really doesn't use any kind of rust preventative paint or coating at least back then, wow. I'd like to clean things up best I can, use a rust converter perhaps and paint everything. Any recommendations on paint?




Everything is so rusted I wish I could just buy a preassembled front end! I still like my truck and I have no intentions of getting a new one, I'm not fond of automatic transmissions or electronic dashes and stuff so I plan to repair and keep this one going as long as I can. I really should have done rust preventative measures from the start but thats water over the dam now.

 

The one item I'd definitely consider replacing is the differential cover. You don't want that leaking empty.

 

Brush on some EVAPO-RUST. Soak the Ba-Jesus out of it.....

 

If you don't have a HIGH QUALITY ball joint press you're going to need someone to push the old ones out and press the new ones in. The Harbor Freight ones won't get the job done on something that rusty without some heat application. I know, I tried years ago, bent the frame right open and the ball joint didn't budge.

If you're disassembling you might as well replace the axle tube seals - won't necessarily help anything but it'll look better.

There is the hub seal that attaches to the axle shaft, that should be replaced and you'll need to either make the tool or buy/rent the tool to install the new one.

U-joints it can't hurt to replace, but again unless you've got a good size press you'll need to have someone else do it, these axle shafts are too big to try to do them in a standard 5-6" vice (how I used to do late 80's GM driveshafts/axle shafts).

Looks like most of your bushings could use some love too, pretty straightforward on replacing those.

That front diff cover definitely needs to be replaced, good time to take a look at what everything looks like in there. It's not necessary but you could get yourself a nice aluminum one if you wanted.

Good advice on the rust converter though - I'd buy a few cans/bottles though, looks like you're gonna need a lot.

 

I will give this FYI IMHO...... with regards to the calipers, a few years ago I bought reman calipers for my wife's car from Centric.....what a mess- 4 out of 4 leaked....i was able to fix 3 of them but the 4th was a mess and hand carried it back to them (I'm here in LA)!!!!!! They did stand behind and replaced it but I said never again....I rebuild all the calipers myself. Just did my truck....literally took 20 minutes per caliper including washing my hands and no leaks, drips, runs or errors!

 

Oh I forgot I was going to ask... if I replace my rusty coil springs, is there aftermarket springs that may provide a softer ride for the same weight rating? I've got the Y code 5400# front axle. Wouldn't mind going aftermarket if I could improve the ride but also no problems sticking to OEM.

Dang, this is sounding like more of a pain than the coil pockets will be to remove. I have no press, never needed one for prior trucks and cars, but I've never done 350 ball joints before. I wouldn't be opposed to picking one up, or having my neighbor who I am sure has one do it if I can manage to get the axle down there without my truck.

Yes, I plan on diff cover. Actually a couple years back I went to change f/r diff fluids and replace the rear cover which was leaking. The front cover I snapped the second or third bolt head off, and decided to stop there and put the first ones back in. I assume it won't be the only bolt to snap. And that was with multiple days of soaking in P Blaster. Not really sure what I'll do. Think heating with the torch will make a difference or are those bolts a lost cause?

 

You wouldn't have to pull the entire axle and take it somewhere, once you've got the hub off and the axle shaft out (pretty easy and straightforward, a couple pry bars and it pops right out), the ball joins will separate from the axle pretty easily. You can then bring the knuckle anywhere you want. The problem is getting the ball joints out of the knuckle, and between that level of rust and just how IN THERE they are anyway, a good ball joint press is a MUST.

As for the bolts, for the ones that are still there heating them up then applying a liberal amount of PB blaster or the like will help, and a bit of heat when removing will help. The broken ones, however, may need to be drilled out/retapped, which can be a chore if you aren't careful.

 

Wouldn't hurt to take a ball peen hammer and tap all along the frame before digging into the front end. Make sure the rest of the truck is still solid.

Since the ball joints are in the knuckle, might be able to use a shop press on the ball joints.