71 f100 split side rust help
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 526
Likes: 80
FWIW, I take a hacksaw blade and cut it in half, then I use the half-blade to “rip” out the rust in the seam. (Be sure the teeth are going in the right direction) (probably use gloves).
This will get into that crevice pretty well, and at least pull out most of the scaley rust. From there you can treat the rust in your favorite way.
Sandblast, chemicals, just remember there is an entry point for moisture on the back side of those seams. Also I wouldnt use Por15. Dont like it, doesnt last.
This will get into that crevice pretty well, and at least pull out most of the scaley rust. From there you can treat the rust in your favorite way.
Sandblast, chemicals, just remember there is an entry point for moisture on the back side of those seams. Also I wouldnt use Por15. Dont like it, doesnt last.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
FWIW, I take a hacksaw blade and cut it in half, then I use the half-blade to “rip” out the rust in the seam. (Be sure the teeth are going in the right direction) (probably use gloves).
This will get into that crevice pretty well, and at least pull out most of the scaley rust. From there you can treat the rust in your favorite way.
Sandblast, chemicals, just remember there is an entry point for moisture on the back side of those seams. Also I wouldnt use Por15. Dont like it, doesnt last.
This will get into that crevice pretty well, and at least pull out most of the scaley rust. From there you can treat the rust in your favorite way.
Sandblast, chemicals, just remember there is an entry point for moisture on the back side of those seams. Also I wouldnt use Por15. Dont like it, doesnt last.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 485
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Maybe tape the paint you don’t want to blast and surgically sand blast the seam. I did this on mine. I was persnickety on paint prep, then used por15, and por15 patch. I left that stuff low then used seam sealer to level it. Then primed, blended, sanded in to the top coat. I shot the por at the underside of the bed seam.
I Also did this process on the drip rails, I didn’t want water sitting in those welds underneath cracked seam sealer. I wanted the original paint on mine. I used a sonicrafter in some places. This job is a pain.
i would have used the masterseries rust paint if I did it again. Stay away from por15 gloss, nothing sticks to it.
I Also did this process on the drip rails, I didn’t want water sitting in those welds underneath cracked seam sealer. I wanted the original paint on mine. I used a sonicrafter in some places. This job is a pain.
i would have used the masterseries rust paint if I did it again. Stay away from por15 gloss, nothing sticks to it.
Tuned
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 349
Likes: 29
From: NW LA
Maybe tape the paint you don’t want to blast and surgically sand blast the seam. I did this on mine. I was persnickety on paint prep, then used por15, and por15 patch. I left that stuff low then used seam sealer to level it. Then primed, blended, sanded in to the top coat. I shot the por at the underside of the bed seam.
I Also did this process on the drip rails, I didn’t want water sitting in those welds underneath cracked seam sealer. I wanted the original paint on mine. I used a sonicrafter in some places. This job is a pain.
i would have used the masterseries rust paint if I did it again. Stay away from por15 gloss, nothing sticks to it.
I Also did this process on the drip rails, I didn’t want water sitting in those welds underneath cracked seam sealer. I wanted the original paint on mine. I used a sonicrafter in some places. This job is a pain.
i would have used the masterseries rust paint if I did it again. Stay away from por15 gloss, nothing sticks to it.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 485
Likes: 51
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Masterseries seems to be holding up pretty well, not pealing or doing anything funny. I think it’s good for areas where you can’t clean out 100%. I’ve seen guys on forums take their bed apart at the seems to get every last rust spot. Master series seems to bond tightly, chemically and physically I believe. They make a sprayable version. It sands well, which helps alot.
I don’t mess with taking the lid off. I stab the top lid and squeeze out what’s needed after shaking/stirring. I can’t say for sure, it’s moisture cured, reducer can be added, but it’s not two part. I don’t know if this helps but I’ve had success using it.
I don’t mess with taking the lid off. I stab the top lid and squeeze out what’s needed after shaking/stirring. I can’t say for sure, it’s moisture cured, reducer can be added, but it’s not two part. I don’t know if this helps but I’ve had success using it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ek9beezler
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Jan 10, 2016 11:36 AM
loudoun
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
3
Jul 16, 2014 12:22 AM
nmclella
Excursion - King of SUVs
15
Nov 3, 2013 01:46 PM
