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If the battery has been out of the truck, you're going to have to put a bunch of miles on it before the PCM will allow the smog check. Don't waste your time and money until you've driven it a couple hundred miles. I had to do that recently with my 99 F250.
My friend and I rebuilt this pump for the volunteer fire dept. Another guy in the dept had broken it up pretty badly trying to get it apart to replace the gears.
Maybe you should just pick your truck up and take it to another shop to have it checked out. Maybe it's not O2 sensor like this shop said. Since you just replaced them.
I would be afraid of losing another battery leaving it there.
^^^THIS!!^^^
I was having one issue or another with the various Ford dealerships around us (we are lucky with around a half-dozen to choose from), but each had their own issues.
After the warranties expired, I went to the mechanics files, and searched for a respected local mechanic near me, I found a great mechanic in Sunnyvale, who I've been going to ever since. He does a great job, and doesn't foist unnecessary stuff on me at any time.
The battery has not been out of the truck for a couple of weeks now. I've been driving it off and on since I got it back the first time. They fixed my two passenger side power windows. Which they didn't charge me for. He said there was some kind of goop stuck in there that was preventing movement. I was going to take it to church today, but church is only a block away and I would want to drive it enough to warm it up first. Don't really want to do that today. I will warm it up tomorrow before getting the smog test done. I already have a trusted mechanic, but he has a two month backlog because his mechanic quit and he doesn't trust anyone else, so he does all the work himself. Also, he is on the other side of town. I doubt he would work with me on the price, but at least I know the work he does would be good
Any time the battery has been disconnected, even for a few seconds, or if codes have been cleared, the computer has to complete the drive cycle to be emissions ready. I changed batteries on my truck and van around Christmas. It took weeks of driving around before the computers were emissions ready. I have seen a lot of cars fall because they are not ready for emissions. On Ford, there's usually a P1000 code which clears after the monitors have completed the drive cycle.
I was having one issue or another with the various Ford dealerships around us (we are lucky with around a half-dozen to choose from), but each had their own issues.
I don't know which is worse. Sales or service. Salespeople treat you like an idiot, trying to see how much they can rob you for. Service writers treat you like an idiot, trying to see how much they can rob you for.
How can you tell the truck is smog ready? It would suck to take your truck in and have it not ready, only to find out that you only needed to drive about 5 miles.....
Just got my truck back, and something looks different. Can't quite put my finger on it...
I plan on driving it tomorrow before I go in to have a smog test done. I want to see if the CEL will stay off. If it does great. If not, then I will take it back to the shop...again... Now this is more like it. Took this shot this morning before church. Usually, a black Rogue is in that open space to the left.
I wish I had that Dodge. I would not need to pass any smog test!
Jim
Last edited by Nighteyez; May 19, 2024 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: add info
Whenever the battery is disconnected, or you clear codes off the computer, the computer needs to complete a drive cycle to satisfy all of the monitors. Even without a check engine light, the computer will have a P1000 code.
Even the least expensive scan tools, which typically sell for around $20, have an "I/M" function. "I/M" is supposed to mean "Inspection/Maintenance" It checks to see if the computer is "emissions ready", It will usually give you a picture of which monitors are "ready".
The only thing that you can do, is drive in the prescribed manner which satisfies the computer to complete the drive cycle. Or just drive, drive, drive...... and wait for all the conditions to be met - which could take weeks - or even months. I went through this process earlier this year, when I replaced batteries on my truck and van. Lucky me. I got the added expense of buying 2 car batteries, in the very same month. Luckily, I did not have a smog test due. I did nothing special. Just drove the cars, and checked them. It took about 6 weeks of driving for my Transit Connect and F-150 to be "emissions ready".
This is what the screen looks like when everything works.
Well, if I have to drive months to get it to pass smog it is never going to pass smog because I only put about 8-10 miles on it in a week...
Jim
Jim, it's not that bad. You can start off by trying to actually follow the directions for completing the drive cycle.
Yes. It took me almost 2 months. Keep in mind that I have several cars, a motorcycle, a bicycle, and I ride the bus. I just don't drive the car every day. According to the diagnostic screen, it actually was only 8 "warm ups", and 86.99 miles. Most people could drive a week or less, and all of the monitors would be satisfied. If you try to follow the Ford Drive Cycle, you could do it all within 30 minutes. Even if it doesn't happen on the first attempt, you should be able to satisfy all of the sensors within a few days.
Originally Posted by Tim Young
Rob from the City, Thanks for the info on the smog testing.
I use a tablet computer. FORScan works. Several other free apps work just as well. Any cheap code reader will also work. For most people, a cheap code reader is all that you need. As long as you can read and clear a Diagnostic Trouble Code, and turn off the Maintenance Indicator Light, then you're all set. You can always look up the codes online. Most people don't need the diagnostic functions of an expensive scan tool, nor would they know how to use that data.
Some auto parts stores will read your codes for free, or lend you the tool, if you do not have $20. That's how they make money selling you the parts needed for repair. A lot of automotive service centers will also read codes for free. That's how they make money selling you the repair service.
I see that Amazon has really low cost code readers, if you need one.
I have one, I haven't used it for a while and I don't remimber what brand it is but it works well. I also use ForScan and I also have an Edge monitor in my truck that I can use to read and clear code.
Luckily we don't have to do smog testing up her. I was just curious of how you knew.
