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I can get a crank from Summit, but they are mostly externally balanced. The internally balanced ones are like $1000.
My engine guy came over today to finish up one of my 454s. We also went through my 351w.
He thought it all looked very good and usable. Besides the crank and cam.
He gets wholesale prices on crank kits, so he is going to call the supplier and I should be able to walk in with mine and out with a new crank and bearing kit.
And yes, I will be replacing the cam bearings as well.
I can get a crank from Summit, but they are mostly externally balanced. The internally balanced ones are like $1000.
My engine guy came over today to finish up one of my 454s. We also went through my 351w.
He thought it all looked very good and usable. Besides the crank and cam.
He gets wholesale prices on crank kits, so he is going to call the supplier and I should be able to walk in with mine and out with a new crank and bearing kit.
And yes, I will be replacing the cam bearings as well.
Most Ford v8's are externally balanced. The internally balanced cranks are so expensive because they are oddball and specially made.
Cleaned degreased entire engine
Honed cylinders
New gaskets all around
New camshaft
New Crankshaft
New rings
New lifters
new timing set
New water pump
She is back in
Had a few hiccups and still an issue
My fuel pressure is real low.
I used the fuel pump that was in there. It used to read between 5 and 6
After reinstall, it reads 2.5 and sometimes 1 or below.
This fuel pump ran with the camshaft pump drive, which is that round double ring bolted to cam. Is there more than 1 way these can be installed? Seemed like only 1 way.
What are the chances that the fuel pump just now took a dump when I rebuilt the rest of the motor?
What else could have dropped the fuel pressure? All the lines are tight. No air seems to have gotten in the line.
Right now I can't drive it as it drains the fuel from the bowl when I push down on the pedal in gear.
I was able to break in the cam no problem. Did about 35-40 minutes 1500 - 3000 rmps. No stalling or anything.
How long did the fuel pump sit around as you were working on the engine? And I assume you have a new fuel filter installed? Is the filter aftermarket or are you running the stock 2bbl with the stock fuel filter?
Thank you for the reply.
There is either 55k miles, 155k miles, or 255k miles.
It is a pretty recent purchase.
The guy I bought from (eBay sleezeball - I know, my fault for buying on eBay) said it was original 55k miles, but I say no way.
When I pulled the intake, the inside actually looked pretty nice. I did not see any sludge or anything nasty looking.
I don't think oil goes through the intake either. Just that the distributor has to be removed and reinstalled when the new intake goes in. Maybe something happened with the distributor in that process.
It is firmly down where it is supposed to be.
I am starting to think the engine is a bit tired. It has never really run perfect. I have spent hrs and hrs trying to get it to run the way I think it should.
I honestly do not know what kind of power I should be seeing. I have read that these should be able to tow 6-7k lbs. I am not sure I could tow 2500 lbs.
Maybe it is just time
Hi. I'm an idiot. But I read a lot. If you wanna know how many miles, look at the pedal wear. 100k means a lot of braking. 200k probably shows some metal.
Common wisdom on low oil pressure quite often has to do with worn rod bearings. Replacing them is easier than accessing them. Getting the oil pan off is a real fight on these things. Involves jacks and wood blocks and motor mounts and transmission tie downs. I was gonna do it when I dropped mine and replaced the pump and oil feed... but the one I looked at looked good (means nothing im rationalizing) and I realized I had ordered main bearings instead because of the afore mentioned idiocy. Some folks will recommend a high velocity oil pump as a solution but other people who seem smart to an idiot say thats a dumb idea thats bad for stuff.
In short... I have no idea.
But if you figure it out, tag me. I gots no oil pressure.
The fuel pump sat out for a month before reinstall.
I have an aftermarket inline fuel filter.
My oil pressure problem was my bearings. They were shot. So shot that my crankshaft needed replacing. They wore too deep of grooves on the journals.
Main bearings were toast as well as rod bearings
If the fuel pump is pumping, it should be ok. It's rare for them to fail with low pressure, they either fail to pump altogether, or they work.
What happens when you take the suction side loose and plug the line from the tank, and then put a long rubber hose on the suction side and stick it in a lawnmower can full of fuel? Does the pressure return to normal?
I will try that.
However when I reinstalled the the pump, when I unplugged the tank line to install the rubber hose, it flowed out like crazy. I had to move quick.
Thats not to say something could have happened since tho.
I'll jump under there again today
I believe there is only one way to bolt the fuel pump cam onto the cam, from seeing a photo on here the other day.
A new fuel pump from your local NAPA might be something to try.
Is this a 351 ? If you click on your avatar picture in the upper right corner. You can add the trucks info to your "signature" Like some of us have done. Makes it easier for us to know what your working with.
I believe there is only one way to bolt the fuel pump cam onto the cam, from seeing a photo on here the other day.
A new fuel pump from your local NAPA might be something to try.
Is this a 351 ? If you click on your avatar picture in the upper right corner. You can add the trucks info to your "signature" Like some of us have done. Makes it easier for us to know what your working with.
I would hold off on a replacement pump after what I seen posted a few time and has happened to me on a non-Ford.
New pumps are putting out high pressure, mine was 18 PSI before I shut the motor off as fuel was coming out the bowl vent tubes.
I got a 2nd pump, different brand, but have not had time to see if it is good or not.
Where is this "in line" filter and is it new with this rebuilt motor?
As a test you could remove the filter and see if the PSI come up.
I say this because a car club member was having a no fuel issue at the carb when driving, like you, but would idle all day long.
Starting at the tank he removed the sock, not easy on a 58 Ford hard top drop top.
Replaced the fuel line from tank to filter and still no fuel to carb when driving.
For S&G he removed the filer and no more issue. This filet was bad on of the package chocking off the flow of fuel.
Dave ----
Well, after messing with the pump, the filter, and the lines, it seems to have fixed itself. Maybe just needed to run; and run a lot.
Now it runs just like it did before.
I will be keeping an eye on my pressure tho
Good to hear it is running like it did before and I take it that was running good
It would have been nice to know just what caused the problem so if it happens again you know what to look at.
Dave ----
It is running pretty good.
I honestly havn't noticed a big difference in power or anything.
I figured with new camshaft at the very least, I would notice something.
Maybe I need to just do some fine tuning.
Best thing is no oil under her anymore.
My guess, and only a guess, is that time it spent off the engine, may have dried out the diaphragm a little and just needed to be used.
The fuel pump sat out for a month before reinstall.
I have an aftermarket inline fuel filter.
My oil pressure problem was my bearings. They were shot. So shot that my crankshaft needed replacing. They wore too deep of grooves on the journals.
Main bearings were toast as well as rod bearings
Simultaneously what I expected to hear and didn't want to hear looks like I'm ordering rod bearings
