When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That is basically my plan.
Hone cylinders
New gaskets and seals
New timing chain
New bearings all around
The camshaft is something somewhat new to me. I cant figure out what I have in there now. It "looks" good, but that does not mean it is.
I will replace it, but not sure with what. I want something that will freshen up the engine, but will not make me do a bunch of extra work to the heads and components.
I am not looking to race. Just get me from point A to B and if it has some extra poop in her, I would love that.
I have a line on a new stock grind cam and lifter combo, but I don't know if that is the direction I should go
I would not do anything unless I had a machinist measure everything. Most will not even charge you if you bring the bare block and crankshaft to them. They do it all the time and it will not take them 15 minutes to check it. And most of them will talk to you a little bit and you can gain some knowledge from them.
You do not know the history of this engine I assume, so you do not even know what size bearings and rings to buy. This engine may have been rebuilt before and already have oversize rings and undersize bearings in it.
On the camshaft, you can have him look at it too. If he thinks it's good, re-use it. There have been a lot of quality control problems with camshafts lately.
I would not do anything unless I had a machinist measure everything. Most will not even charge you if you bring the bare block and crankshaft to them. They do it all the time and it will not take them 15 minutes to check it. And most of them will talk to you a little bit and you can gain some knowledge from them.
You do not know the history of this engine I assume, so you do not even know what size bearings and rings to buy. This engine may have been rebuilt before and already have oversize rings and undersize bearings in it.
On the camshaft, you can have him look at it too. If he thinks it's good, re-use it. There have been a lot of quality control problems with camshafts lately.
Yes that is the "right way" but when you dont have the time or money you do what you got to do
Also you know the shop is going to find something so machine work needs to be done.
If the bearings are under size they should be marked on the back side STD / .010 / . 020 / ETC.
Measuring the crank you should also be able to tell if turned under size. I could with calipers I had and that matched the STD bearings.
Pistons if over size, most are stamped on the top like the bearings with the size.
The cam might still be good but if he did not keep the lifters from what lobes they were on he will need to get new lifters and he would be right back with QC issues with them.
Just my .02
Dave ----
These are all great thoughts.
I spoke with a machine shop today.
They were very nice.
I will prob toss everything in the truck and see what they can do.
Here is a pic of the bearing. Look to be the original bearings from this motor.
AND.... for all you Ford Mandela Effect folk, it has the "original" logo like most people remember
yep standard but what does the crank mic to? , personally i don't like seeing copper it means it needs cutting IMMO
Being the bearings are softer they would wear over the crank but yes the crank should also be checked.
I know he said a shop was going to look at it but if the crank measured with in spec, throw STD bearings in it and check with platsi gauge and if still with in spec for get about it
Dave ----
Few shops have a way to cut the crank.
What did they have to say about it or they still have to measure it?
On the plasti gauge you cant use it on used bearings and even more so if showing copper.
Now if you put new bearings in and the crank the way it is, no cut & polish, I can then see using the plasti gauge and if with in spec I would call it good.
But thats me
Dave ----
I totally get that.
Figured it could not hurt to do as many measurements as possible.
More the merrier.
I will bring the crank with me when I take heads in. See what they have to say.
Also need my engine buddy to come over. He knows a ton about Fords and even more about engines.
Its just tough to get him sometimes as he has jobs haha
I totally get that.
Figured it could not hurt to do as many measurements as possible.
More the merrier.
I will bring the crank with me when I take heads in. See what they have to say.
Also need my engine buddy to come over. He knows a ton about Fords and even more about engines.
Its just tough to get him sometimes as he has jobs haha
Yes, they may not be able to cut the crank but can they measure it for you? Are you going to take the block and have them measure that? Or do they recommend you take it to another shop? If you want this engine like new I think you are going to need some machine work. But that is a guess, get someone to measure it up first. if it's worn out and you just slap rings and bearings in it, I think you will be disappointed.
Yes, they may not be able to cut the crank but can they measure it for you? Are you going to take the block and have them measure that? Or do they recommend you take it to another shop? If you want this engine like new I think you are going to need some machine work. But that is a guess, get someone to measure it up first. if it's worn out and you just slap rings and bearings in it, I think you will be disappointed.
For the record this is the right way, have a shop measure everything and go from there for a like new engine.
My "hack" was just to get a motor running to make a drag race I was signed up for.
This motor only had blot on parts nothing other then factory stock cast rods & pistons spinning to 6K, all the cam was good for with the 8.5 compression, so it could have come apart at any time but she ran great.
Dave ----
coming from those days also dave
yep the old junkyard motors from used parts we threw together ,in my case the cam costs more than the used parts many ran the whole drag season many didn't
for the op
while your having the shop check it all out, let them slip in a new set of cam bearings unless your buddy has the tool and know how
Just thought I'd update yall on new developments.
Finally got to take the crank into the machine shop.
It is toast. Said it needed to be ground down.
This will prob turn my "budget" back on the road again job into a full rebuild.
Not great news, but long run I am sure it will be the way to go.
Unfortunately, I can't do it right away.
Finally got to take the crank into the machine shop.
It is toast. Said it needed to be ground down.
This will prob turn my "budget" back on the road again job into a full rebuild.
Not sure I'd call the crankshaft toast. That implies it is scrap and can't be refurbished. Sounds more it is merely worn beyond limits to continue in service as is or with a minor polishing. It is a very common procedure to grind the journals undersized and then fit oversized bearings.
If the journals are worn beyond limits for regrinding, all is not lost. Specialized outfits can build up the worn areas with flame sprayed metal. This new material is then ground down to original stock size. I had this done to the crankshaft on my 1948 Jeep. That was over 20 years ago and it is still holding up just fine. I don't remember the cost, but it was quite reasonable and far less than a replacement crank.
Re: your hopes for a budget build. Have you considered installing a remanufactured engine? I did that two years ago. It eliminates the expense of cleaning up and inspecting your block, crank, etc., only to discover they are unusable. Downtime is shortened, too. You'll have a warranty, too, which you typically won't have if a machine shop prepares the parts and you assemble everything. I ran into a problem with my engine but fortunately the warranty covered it.
I should have been more specific.
The crank the way it is is toast. Machine shop said it would need to come down .020 because of the grooves.
So $250 in machining and $100 shipping each way. New cam, new parts throughout, I may as well do it all. Not quite in the budget.
My engine buddy and I are building 2 BBCs for a very cool boat project.
Put the cost of 3 engines, and it gets steep.
Its all good. Sounds like I am complaining, but I am not.
I have thought about a warrantied new engine. we'll see what my engine guy says. He can get all parts at wholesale, so hopefully I can keep what I have
The good that I can see down the road, is a strong running engine that I can feel confident driving around
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
