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I am running the oil line from the fitting on the engine through the firewall into the back of the gauge.
I don't understand the quietness either. Today I just left it running for a bit to see if I could hear anything.
When in park my rpms are approx 1000 and oil pressure at around 4psi. Maybe I will lower the rpms so it read 0 and see if I hear anything.
Also thought about removing the valve covers and see if oil is flowing into the top of the heads.
I will hook a schrader to the inflator and see what happens.
Maybe I should just pull the engine (shoot me).
I believe I have a rear main seal leak anyhow. My driveway is looking a bit like a cheetah with all the spots
I am running the oil line from the fitting on the engine through the firewall into the back of the gauge.
I don't understand the quietness either. Today I just left it running for a bit to see if I could hear anything.
When in park my rpms are approx 1000 and oil pressure at around 4psi. Maybe I will lower the rpms so it read 0 and see if I hear anything.
Also thought about removing the valve covers and see if oil is flowing into the top of the heads.
I will hook a schrader to the inflator and see what happens.
Maybe I should just pull the engine (shoot me).
I believe I have a rear main seal leak anyhow. My driveway is looking a bit like a cheetah with all the spots
Overall, yes it looks like your engine has a lot of miles on it. If you are worried about it, by all means pull it and rebuild it. But if you really need this truck to run small errands and take trash to the dump, it would probably do that for several more years.
P.S. If you look underneath at the engine and see where someone has replaced the oil pan gasket, that could simply be your problem. When you try to do that in the truck, it's a very difficult job and it's very easy to drop pieces of old gasket in the oil pan. These get sucked up in the oil pump pickup screen and restrict the oil flow.
My thoughts were that exactly.
I had to do the pan gasket and what a pain in the *** job with these TTBs.
I cleaned and cleaned before reinstall, but still could be something.
The reason for the oil pan gasket change was the oil on the driveway.
I was getting the oil pressure drop before the gasket change.
Now, no more oil under the pan. Now its behind from what looks like the rear main seal
Glad that worked out for you, but this seems more like a private matter between you and your doctor. I think we should get back on topic and stick to discussing trucks.
Many years ago, my 1970 Duster 340 had an oil pressure problem, kind of like this. Back about 1974, oil pressure would drop really low. After pulling the engine and removing the main bearing caps, I found a grove in the rear main journal on the crank. I replaced the crank, and other stuff, and things were fine after that.
I just wanted to say thank you all for the help with my issue.
I have decided not to just slap a band-aid on the situation.
I am going to start the process of pulling the engine today. Maybe even get it out.
I think in the long run I will be happier.
Maybe more power, better fuel mileage, better oil pressure, and no leaks (hopefully all 4)
Smart move if you plan to keep the old girl. Please be sure to keep us updated...because, inquiring minds want to know. Hey, we also love pictures....hint hint hint.
Thanks all.
So far I have taken 100 pics for reference.
She is filthy, Can't wait to really clean this beast up.
I am getting close to pulling her out.
I still have engine mounts, exhaust, and trans bolts.
Does anyone have tips on separating the trans from the engine?
On my last engine removal (old Rover Classic), I needed to unbolt the flywheel through a small hole. Turn the engine a 1/4, unbolt, turn a 1/4 unbolt etc...
Any tips are really appreciated. I do not want to mes something up.
I just wanted to say thank you all for the help with my issue.
I have decided not to just slap a band-aid on the situation.
I am going to start the process of pulling the engine today. Maybe even get it out.
I think in the long run I will be happier.
Maybe more power, better fuel mileage, better oil pressure, and no leaks (hopefully all 4)
Only you can know how to meet your needs. You started by naming this thread, the first two words says it all. For me if the engine has good compression I'd leave it in there and deal with the oil leaks and carburetor issues. I do understand that no oil leaks allowed frame of mind...so good luck with the rebuild or swap!
Thanks all.
So far I have taken 100 pics for reference.
She is filthy, Can't wait to really clean this beast up.
I am getting close to pulling her out.
I still have engine mounts, exhaust, and trans bolts.
Does anyone have tips on separating the trans from the engine?
On my last engine removal (old Rover Classic), I needed to unbolt the flywheel through a small hole. Turn the engine a 1/4, unbolt, turn a 1/4 unbolt etc...
Any tips are really appreciated. I do not want to mes something up.
Thanks again
I have forgotten if this is a manual or automatic. If it's a automatic you need to turn the engine by hand and take the 4 nuts or bolts off the torque convertor. If it's a manual, it just pulls apart. Once you get the bolts out of the bellhousing, lift the engine till the bellhousing hits the firewall. Then take a piece of plywood and a jack and put this under the transmission and raise the jack till it's tight. Then lower the engine and wiggle it around, it should break free from the bellhousing. Pull it forward. You should have the radiator out.
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