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Of course, this recent development goes against every fiber of my existence, and my determination to do as little as possible for as long as it takes... I know I would have planned for several days minimum of hemming and hawing before taking decisive action. I'm feeling faint now and need to rest...
One item still worthy of consideration - oil pressure indication. Even if you do a full rebuild, you don't want to rely on a suspect gauge when you get everything back together.
One item still worthy of consideration - oil pressure indication. Even if you do a full rebuild, you don't want to rely on a suspect gauge when you get everything back together.
Whatchu talkin' about??? Didn't you see that the guage face has numbers on it? 3 psi is 3 psi. It's not like a needle pointing to an N.
I see youre all against me pulling the engine to do a rebuild.
I will say this.
The breaking point for me was after my last test drive, I had a much larger pool of oil under the truck than usual. I am really sick of looking at all the oil drops on the ground.
Working on that engine in the vehicle with that friggin TTB was such a pain in the ***, that this seemed easier to me. Plus gives me a chance to clean everything up under the hood.
I had that engine out quicker than doing to oil pan gasket job.
Once I know that all my internals are good and fresh and the engine is back in, I can then move on to dialing in other aspects.
Ive had this vehicle for 3 years or so now and has always seemed to be worn out.
I am for whatever makes me happy. I have found over the years that less than happy sucks. If oil leaks get beyond a drip a day on a piece of cardboard and those leaks can't be handled easily, yank it!
Thought I'd share some pics.
Looks like original block. Never been bored
So far it looks pretty good.
Cylinders are clean, but could use a hone. A bit glazed
Clean the top of the bore and see if there is a lip that catches your fingernail. If so, I would get a machinest to measure the bores. They can wear out-of round and that affects ring sealing. You could also get him to mic the crank and rod journals. A book I have says bore wear at .006 is the limit for being worth re-ringing and getting any miles out of it. If it has wear over .006, it needs to be bored to the next oversize. Anything less than .006, means the re-ring job will last that much longer.
You will need him to check the heads also. He will check for guide wear, re-grind the valves check the springs, etc.
Check your harmonic balancer. Make sure it does not have a groove in it where the front seal runs. if it does, they make a sleeve to repair this. Also make sure you put a little daub of rtv on the keyway of the balancer before you install it. You can get a oil leak from oil making it's way around the key.
i have to ditto dave, get it mic'd as from my viewpoint that block needs a rebore , there is a ridge at the top hidden by carbon, i see no cross hatch left . another item i see a lot in windsors that can't be seen is worn out pitted cam bearings that have always lead to 1 of the reasons of lowered oil pressure
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