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There's a cover on the back of the tailgate. Take it off and you'll have access to the problem rod. Take the problem rod loose from the handle mechanism pull it with some vise grips until the rod is free at the latch. Once you have the tailgate down replace any suspect parts and lube all the areas the rod is meant to operate and the handle mechanism.
Ah sorry NO there is no cover on the back side to take off. Only the 3 bolts to remove tho remove the complete opening handle. You have to go fishing with a piece of wire down inside the outer handle hole and try to hook the release rod and lift it back up and then get it back in the handle hole.
And if that does not work, take 2 bolts out (one hinge side/bed side) and take the tail gate off and then flip it upside down. And rubber mallet it a bit on the bottom edge and that makes the rod fall to the top (now the bottom since it is upside down) and easier to catch with the wire.
NO panel to take off, just the 3 bolts to remove for removing the opening handle assembly.
The screwdriver trick. See if you can carefully slide/pry the entire tailgate to one side a little, to give you more eye ball/screwdriver tip room in the opposite side.
Red arrow is angled piece inside the metal outer "bar" is what you want to pry on, ever so slightly. Having a helper on the handle helps to pull the other latch rod to the opening position, as you screwdriver it from in the bed.
If you do get it open and want to remove it, the 2 pig phillips head screws (up by the bed latch L brackets) can be a pain. So just fold the hinges opposite direction and pop them off at the end. They stay ON the truck.
How it looks inside.
Home made rod lock. A piece of sheet metal and some silicone.
[QUOTE=77&79F250;21197006]Ah sorry NO there is no cover on the back side to take off. Only the 3 bolts to remove tho remove the complete opening handle. You have to go fishing with a piece of wire down inside the outer handle hole and try to hook the release rod and lift it back up and then get it back in the handle hole.
And if that does not work, take 2 bolts out (one hinge side/bed side) and take the tail gate off and then flip it upside down. And rubber mallet it a bit on the bottom edge and that makes the rod fall to the top (now the bottom since it is upside down) and easier to catch with the wire.
NO panel to take off, just the 3 bolts to remove for removing the opening handle assembly.
The screwdriver trick. See if you can carefully slide/pry the entire tailgate to one side a little, to give you more eye ball/screwdriver tip room in the opposite side.
Red arrow is angled piece inside the metal outer "bar" is what you want to pry on, ever so slightly. Having a helper on the handle helps to pull the other latch rod to the opening position, as you screwdriver it from in the bed.
If you do get it open and want to remove it, the 2 pig phillips head screws (up by the bed latch L brackets) can be a pain. So just fold the hinges opposite direction and pop them off at the end. They stay ON the truck.
How it looks inside.
Home made rod lock. A piece of sheet metal and some silicone.
Appreciate it! Tried the screwdriver with no luck. But didn’t want to mess up the paint! Got frustrated and quit. Will try it again this weekend!
Just a "might work" idea. If I read it right, it sounds like the rod end that hooks that right side latch has maybe broke in there ... or if it came loose at the handle end due to a clip, it twisted and worked itself out of the slot it hooks into. There are no plastic clips out on the latch end, the rod just "twist" into the slot for retention. Flood the cavity with light, or maybe use a telescopic camera like a proctologist would use, for your phone or etc ... and get an idea as to what exactly "let go". Might be able to use another rod to engage the latch slider slot, and pull it. Of course, you'll need to remove the 3 bolts and latch handle maybe? Once you get the tail gate open, then you can pull the latches out the ends after removing two bolts each side.
On my original tail gate, I tried to pull mine out to grease, etc. The nut portion in the tail gate broke loose, so I drilled a hole beside the nut and welded the nut's side to the tail gate metal so I could remove the bolts, twice.
If the rod came off the outer end, you are going to have to get the a hold of the inside of the latch and that is going to be a hard one for sure. Or get the screw driver trick to work. You might have to (clearance) bend the inner edge of the TG (on the inside) right by the spring latch to get the screwdriver in there.
You might try a brake adjusting tool, or a smaller flat tip screwdriver. It is just a spring, not like you need to jam a big ol #4 flat tip in there or use a old school tire iron. Remember it you are on one side to have a helper on the out side pulling the handle to get the other side to release. Or I have seen a double screwdriver trick have to take place.
So the rod is not connected to the latch/plunger on the drivers side, correct?
I would try taping a piece of plastic (like a credit card) to the tailgate post to protect the paint and then slide or tap thin pieces of metal or stiff plastic (putty knife) until the latch lets go. Tap them in one at a time and stack as you go.
Then either use the handle or pull the other rod from the access hole to lower the gate.
If still connected to the latch/plunger:
Try using a telescoping magnet or flexible grabber/pick up tool to grab the end of the rod that probably fell to the lower portion of the tailgate. Probable not too far from center.
Good advice, and have the side that works already pulled and held out via the handle. Some time you have to push a little on the outside of the tailgate to take the tension off as you are trying to get your prying tool in there.
'73-'79 Tail Gates appear to be formed one long sheet rolled at top and bottom and the ends meet behind the deeper recess above the F O R D letters ... and below the tail gate latch handle hole ... and spotwelded there where the inner and outer surfaces meet back to back ... the latch rods can't fall below that recess top edge.
I thought a picture of a new from box OEM tail gate might help illustrate?
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Good advice, and have the side that works already pulled and held out via the handle. Some time you have to push a little on the outside of the tailgate to take the tension off as you are trying to get your prying tool in there.
My right side once refused to let go, I thought the clip maybe broke at the handle and I didn't fully know inner workings, but I was working alone. The left end was releasing, the right was not releasing. I first thought a rod clip broke in there (but now I know there are none away from the handle end of the rods). To get the plunger to retract, I pushed in on the tailgate there. As it turned out, was just a notch wore into the plunger I think, and if I had pushed inwards on the tailgate to relieve tension, as I pulled the handle, it would have likely opened. That right plunger was maybe extending into the striker a little further too. I did damage my tail gate on the outer side, but some smoothing, and polishing of the striker, and grease, and it worked great. That little inspection camera would have been nice.
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