Ok. Thought I’d make this a thread because I don’t know if anyone else has tried this, at least in this forum that I can recall. If I’m wrong, don’t shoot me.
My first go at this was with a Red Head box when our Ex was 110,000 or so thousand miles old. Red Head lasted about 40,000 miles.
Second go around was with a Ford Motorcraft that lasted about 50,000 miles.
Now we are on a Blue Top going on about 10,000 miles and it is going south quickly. Towing a 28’ TT with a tongue weight north of 1000 pounds with this gear box is less than comfortable.
Last year, after replacing the lower steering shaft to a Borgeson, the Ex had never steered better. We took a road to Crossville, TN, going through the mountains, which is very similar to the Tail of the Dragon in NC. The Ex tracked like a big go-kart.
So in hopes of getting back that feeling, the PSC is no longer a dream, but a reality.
I talked to a guy at PSC and he said his boxes have bigger and better parts inside and it is brand new. No core needed. Ok, I’m sold.
I got the base model because I run OEM sized tires and stick to asphalt/concrete most of the time. The more expensive models are for big tires and off road tires that actually go off road.
Install is this week.
I’ll keep you posted.

 

I'll be watching, I think I have the red-top from the previous owner, I do have more wander now than when I bought the truck. I wanted to add the GM Saginaw pump, but there was some modification to the alternator/power steering pump bracket that I was not interested in doing for whatever reason back then. PSC doesn't say if the Sector shaft is avail in either of the 2 spline counts.

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/sg752.html

 

Have you seen the saginaw conversion kit made by a member on here? I have one on my 250 along with a 6.7 steering box and couldn't be happier. It's a all new alternator/ps bracket that uses a off the shelf duramax saginaw pump, a 6.7 ps pulley, and a off the shelf hose off something else that fits just fine. Super nice piece and works great.

https://powertrain-integration.com/p...ing-pump-mount

Here are a couple pics from my install.

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I also picked up the saginaw conversion bracket and all the related parts a month or so ago. Haven't had a chance to install yet.
I'll be watching this with interest for when my blue top needs replacement.
I'm running 35's and they spend time regularly aired down for off-road or beach driving. Hence the saginaw conversion which will hopefully make a large difference.

 

Just got it installed.
I popped open the plugs for the line fittings and the fluid inside is clear. Did some looking and found out that I need to use AC Delco GM original steering box fluid.
I looked at PSC’s website and they recommend their fluid. It’s probably the exact same thing, just rebranded.
We’ll see how it performs, hopefully, tomorrow.

 

mine is black and dirty, no idea how old it is, the truck has 180k miles on it now

 

Ok. What did I do wrong?
Thanks.

 

Perhaps nothing, that’s easy adjusted without affecting the actual front end alignment in any way.

The drag link that connects to the pitman arm is adjustable in length, just loosen the clamp bolts and turn the coupler until the steering wheel is straight. Has no effect on camber , caster , or toe, so feel free to adjust away until your heart is content.
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I may be mistaken, but I don’t think I have a drag link,
(2WD).
It drives fine; no slop, tracks straight. The only complaint I have is that the steering is very sensitive. I installed a Bilstein strut to try and help, but with very little results.
Thanks for your input.

 

Post a pic of your front steering arrangement (I don't own anything 2wd to go look at). If there isn't an adjustment close to the pitman arm , then the adjustments would have to take place at the tie rod ends (which would affect the toe).
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Here are the photos from underneath.

 

I didn’t know the 2wd Excursions used a front twin I-beam setup, about as old school as the front leaf spring found in the 4x4 models I suppose.

To re-center your steering wheel the tie rods will need to be adjusted, which does affect toe, so you need an alignment shop.
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Thanks for the affirmation.
I’ve had some bad luck with alignment shops, so I’m going to learn how to do it myself. One shop didn’t torque the right side caster/camber bushing pinch bolt on my way to my son’s wedding, so it went MIA. I’ve got these:



Next shop wanted to charge me $385.00 for the alignment.
Again, I appreciate the guidance. I’ll let you know how it comes out when we get back home.

 

The 4x4's have it easier for centering the steering wheel, they have an adjustment point on the drag link close to where the pitman arm attaches that serves no other purpose besides centering the steering wheel. See the red circled area in the image below.




The good news for your twin I-Beam setup is you can adjust the tie rods and set toe in your driveway pretty effectively with a tape measure and a couple pieces of straight steel/ aluminum/ lumber/ whatever. Just set whatever straight things you have against the tires such that they stick out in front of and behind the tires equally on both sides, then measure the distances in front of the tires and back of the tires, you want these two measurements close to equal with a slight amount of toe in (closer in the front than the back). You want a little toe-in , any amount of toe-out will make for a wandering feeling in the steering.
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