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Good day all. I have an issue y’all may be able to help me with. My 1985 F150 stepside 4x4 has new shocks, but when going over potholes, and we have alot, the ride is hard ….the truck has a factory 3” lift..the shocks were put on during restoration two years ago…not so bad in the back , but the front…yea…have not taken the time, yet, to see what I have on there…too much rain and snow…but, I will . my receipt does not state the brand, just the cost for all four…yep, truck is 40 years old, so it could be more than just the shocks…..not a mechanic, but a backyard fixer when I can figure things out….cost was 459. plus tax…front are KY? back, as I said, unable to see at the moment…truck is parked in funky weather…no garage yet…contacted shop that installed, he sold and moved to florida…just would like the ride to be a bit better…sometimes I am able to avoid the roads with all the potholes, sometimes not…beats me up!! thanks for any info...
typically the majority of a harsh ride is due to the spring rate not the shocks. the springs support the weight and the shocks control rate of compression and extension.
kyb? brand i believe are decent for daily driver use. i'm not completely sure you'd see a great deal of difference moving up to a high end shock like fox or mid level bilstein if your suspension is based on super old technology and you have stiff springs. the best ride would come from a progressive coil rated for your truck and a shock that matches, like a progressive shock like fox. a blown out shock will offer almost no resistance in compression and extension and you would bob up and down like an old cadillac goin down the road. if your shocks are completely shot and your truck rides like a brick, it's alll coil and angle of radius arms. you claim to have a lift? do you have radius arm drops or new radius arms with a diff angle? if not the energy from the pothole transfers to the wheel and into the radius arm and if it's at a bad angle it will push the frame mounted side up into the frame more so then a parallel bar thag will allow the tire to move up and down on the coils rate
There was no factory lift for these trucks. If someone changed the springs, especially in the rear, to achieve the lift, that is most likely where the harsh ride is coming from. The factory rear springs were progressive to help it ride smooth as possible for a truck. The progressive springs are the reason for the rake where the rear is a little higher than the front.
Just to add some perspective, my completely stock, short wheelbase '11 Ranger XL rides like a solid-tire, chain-drive coal truck. It has brand new Monroe shocks. With a load in the bed, the ride improves greatly. More than likely, it's the springs. The short wheelbase doesn't help.
Ok, will check that out with my mechanic next month…we discussed this issue and he stated something similar...
no offense intended, maybe you don't have the excitement or get the enjoyment out of turning wrenches, maybe money isn't an issue, maybe there's physical limitation? who knows, but these old trucks are simple. why not get your hands dirty and be your own? you may come to realization you can figure this all out and handle it yourself? if you simply can't i get it.
my sgt is a hard working dude and can do most anhtbubt he sets out to, but i asked him one day why he pays someone to cut his yard. he said he can take the 2.5 hours to do it, or make 250 in part part time and pay someone 75. point taken
Just to add some perspective, my completely stock, short wheelbase '11 Ranger XL rides like a solid-tire, chain-drive coal truck. It has brand new Monroe shocks. With a load in the bed, the ride improves greatly. More than likely, it's the springs. The short wheelbase doesn't help.
I think my 4x2 81 flare side short wheel base truck rides pretty nice even empty.
I believe your F150 has the same type of suspension under it, front coil springs but you have a front 4x4 axle that is un-sprung and should not have anything with ride.
You said "factory 3" lift kit". As said factory never did lift kits on our trucks, it is after market.
Back in the day there were some kits that did ride like and old coal truck and would knock your teeth out on any bumps, I know as I had a kit like that as did a buddy.
Dose the kit use new front & rear springs or coil spring spacers and lift blocks out back?
If new spring I can see a ruff riding truck but factory springs with spacer / blocks I would think it not ride any ruffer than factory.
You dont have 2 shocks per corner on the truck do you? If so and not valved for such can make it ride a little ruff as it did on my truck but I was also racing it off road.
Originally Posted by K9Kodi
no offense intended, maybe you don't have the excitement or get the enjoyment out of turning wrenches, maybe money isn't an issue, maybe there's physical limitation? who knows, but these old trucks are simple. why not get your hands dirty and be your own? you may come to realization you can figure this all out and handle it yourself? if you simply can't i get it.
my sgt is a hard working dude and can do most anhtbubt he sets out to, but i asked him one day why he pays someone to cut his yard. he said he can take the 2.5 hours to do it, or make 250 in part part time and pay someone 75. point taken
I think most could look to see if the suspension uses coil spacers & lift blocks with factory springs or new springs and a combo there of.
Measure the coil dia. and leaves thickness and how many as that can help us see what might be going on about the ride.
On doing work or paying some one it could also be you hate doing it that much!
When I was a lot younger I turned down a job with good money because I hated doing body work.
That is why a project I have is going on think 30 years now, body work and hate it but in a few months I will get back on it as I will have the time then.
Dave ----
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