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Howdy all. Sorry for the long post but I’m trying to be thorough. I’ve done some googling, and some looking at the truck but I haven’t seen anyone with the exact same symptoms. I’m pretty sure I have it figured out, but I want to get some input so I can get it fixed in one go. I will have a helper this weekend to check for flex in the fire wall and will report back after that.
the truck: 96 f350 7.3 4x4 zf5 rclb 151k clutch has maybe 5-7k miles
the issue: clutch pedal sometimes sticks about halfway when releasing pedal (typically when sitting at a traffic light) This is getting more common. Also happening is sometimes the clutch will start to engage when pedal is pushed in. This caused me to almost back a trailer into another truck, so this MUST get fixed.
what I have found so far: the inside of the cab is wet behind the clutch master cylinder. Also the pin that goes into the master cylinder rod is worn. While I was finding those two issues I noticed the shaft that goes from the clutch that the brake pedal hangs from has what I would call an ‘excessive’ amount of play in it. Eyeballing it, maybe 1/8” maybe less.
all that being said, the clutch does work great leading me to believe that everything past the master cylinder is doing what it should, so I believe my issues are from the master cylinder into the cab.
My theory on what is wrong: excess play in the clutch pedal shaft and the pin to the master cylinder are getting my assist spring almost over center. Then the master is leaking past the seals and allowing the clutch to prematurely engage and finishing off the over centering issue (possibly made worse by a cracked firewall but I won’t know that until this weekend)
I’m thinking the best course is a new clutch/ brake pedal assembly. This should fix the worn shaft issue and the pin going to the clutch master cylinder. And then also a new master is needed. If I do both of these, is it worth doing the heim joint fix that I have seen people do?
I have attached a photo. You can see a bit of wet on the clutch switch, the pin that is worn and then the clutch pedal shaft that also has play in it.
thanks for any input. I feel like I have a pretty good idea what all needs done but maybe I’m missing something else. From what I’m looking at right now it seems like maybe 200 bucks worth of parts should get it back working.
also does anyone have recommendations on a good place for these parts? Or is an auto zone master cylinder just as good as anyone else’s?
First thing I would check the fluid level in the CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER. Make sure you remove any rubber cups that may be under the cap of the clutch master cylinder before you try to check the fluid level or add dot 3 brake fluid.
Adding fluid may help for a while before probably eventually replacing the clutch master cylinder or fixing the play points in the clutch pedal linkage.
First thing I would check the fluid level in the CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER. Make sure you remove any rubber cups that may be under the cap of the clutch master cylinder before you try to check the fluid level or add dot 3 brake fluid.
Adding fluid may help for a while before probably eventually replacing the clutch master cylinder or fixing the play points in the clutch pedal linkage.
I did check the fluid, should have added that. It hardly took any with no change
It appears that half of the bushing is gone and the pin on the pedal linkage has worn down. I don’t think you need to replace the whole pedal assembly to fix that. The arm is splined and can be removed.
I think there was a thread last year(?) where someone repaired that pin. I don’t remember if they welded it to fill in the worn area or used a nut and bolt.
If there is brake fluid inside the cab then you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder since the seal has failed.
agreed with the above post by My4Fordtrucks. you do not need to replace the whole pedal assembly, just the pin and bushing to remove 99% of the play. than a master cylinder to stop the leak should eliminate any issues.
agreed with the above post by My4Fordtrucks. you do not need to replace the whole pedal assembly, just the pin and bushing to remove 99% of the play. than a master cylinder to stop the leak should eliminate any issues.
yes but what about the play in the pedal shaft the the brake pedal hangs off of. I’ll try to get a video of it. It sure seems like a lot of play in that as well
yes but what about the play in the pedal shaft the the brake pedal hangs off of. I’ll try to get a video of it. It sure seems like a lot of play in that as well
That would be great because I don’t understand what you are saying. Are the nylon bushings also broken/missing on the clutch pedal side of the assembly?
I circled in the picture. Where that shaft sticks through, there is what I would say is an excessive amount of up and down play like the hole is worn out. Like I said I’ll try to video it to make it more clear. But I definitely feel like this play is compounding with the busted plastic and worn pin at the master cylinder rod. When you push the clutch down you can see the brake pedal flex
Not sure if it’ll work, but since I can’t post a video direct, here is a link to a video on TikTok. It shows the play I’m talking about pretty well. If that link doesn’t work and you care enough to try to see what I’m talking about, I’m on TikTok @fordfarm1 and it’s my most recent video.
Not sure if it’ll work, but since I can’t post a video direct, here is a link to a video on TikTok. It shows the play I’m talking about pretty well. If that link doesn’t work and you care enough to try to see what I’m talking about, I’m on TikTok @fordfarm1 and it’s my most recent video.
why cant you post the video? use imgur youtube... etc. dont make people jump through hoops to see that stuff
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