I’m looking to replace my front end on my 03 7.3 was wondering if it’s really hard and if I need any special tools before I attempt to do it myself. Thank y’all

 

I think the biggest thing is a big torque wrench. Some components require a high torque. A ball joint press makes quick work of the ball joints.

Also the nuts can be a pain to get out, so a decent impact save alot of hassle too, especially if its rusty. Impact also works great with the ball joint press.

​​​​​IF you have auto hubs (4wd and eosf), there is a vacuum seal in the hub that requires a special tool to put in. If you are doing the ball joints, you will need to replace this seal at a minimum as it must come out to get the hub off.

I wouldnt say its hard.
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You may need an alignment after too

 

so if I don’t got that special tool for the vacuum seal then I’m going to be screwed? Haha I’m just trying to save a couple hundred dollars and do it myself I don’t mind the hassle. Just tired of having to pay people to fix my 7.3 rather Learn and do it myself

 

A few years ago, I used a piece of Sch 40, plugged at end, and wooden board over it.... to hammer the seal in. There are other options on Google, just search a bit.

 

The ‘vacuum seal’ is actually what supports the axle shaft in the center of the knuckle and should be replaced if doing this level of maintenance. It is ‘bad’ if you can move the axle shafts/u-joints up and down inside the ‘C’ of the axle/knuckle - but, replace them anyway ‘while you’re in there’. When these are bad, they allow the axles to droop and bind in the roller bearings at the center of the unit bearings. This will damage the stub shafts where the bearings ride, requiring their replacement. This tool was about $65 last time I looked and could easily be justified weighing the cost against $100+/hr shop labor. (Apparently, some people have installed this seal with a 7.3 oil filter ) You’ll also need the ‘dust seals’ for the inner axle shafts. Definitely get Spicer seals.

If the axles have ‘dropped’, the thrust washers can also be damaged.

You can ‘rent’ the ball joint press and 4wd adapter kit from the autoparts stores. You will need a torque wrench. I currently like Spicer non-greaseable ball joints.

If changing u-joints, I also use Spicer non-greaseable parts here.

I use Ventures Truck Parts for the Spicer parts. Usually from their eBay store.

Fill your unit bearings with grease through the ABS sensor hole.

Remove the nipples and install plugs in the vacuum ports on the knuckles if you no longer use auto hubs.

I’ve been using XRF steering parts for several years now with no failures yet. Coat the adjusters with anti seize prior to assembly so you’ll struggle less to do an alignment in the future.

Some people can do this kind of job without cleaning and painting. They’re wrong.









This job included SpynTec unit bearing eliminator, but everything else is the same as a normal front end rebuild.

on edit:

The only alignment adjustment is toe-in. You can set this yourself with a helper and a tape measure. You’ll measure from the center of the tire front and back at the center of the tread. You’re looking for 1/8-1/4” toed in. If the steering is sketchy or the tires are ‘feathered’, you didn’t get it right. I send customers’ trucks to the alignment shop, but they always tell me I did a good job.

 

I agree with just buying the tool. There around $55 on Amazon. Then if your planning to keep the truck keep it or sell it in marketplace and get most of your money back on it. The tools work great. They knock the seal onto the axle properly then knock the axle and seal into the knuckle to the proper depth.

 

what you didn't mention when setting "Toe in"
is that you need to lift the tire off the ground, and use a sharp pointed tool while spinning the wheel, to scribe a line on the tire....

otherwise, you don't have a way to measure Toe IN.

 

had a wreck 03 f250 gasser that had the some serious front end damage. broke the steering box, sheered off a steering knuckle control arm and bent the steering arm.

bought a parts truck that was an 05 i think. pulled the entire front end off it, slid under the wreck truck just bolted entire thing up. easy as can be. you have a scrap yard somewhere around you w a truck w everything you need.

 

I always just measure to and from a repeated section of tire tread. It may not be exact but let's be honest, how exact am I ever going to get with a tape measure in my driveway. It is a good idea to roll the truck back 10 foot or so then pull forward again before locking everything down though. Just to make sure everything is in it's "groove".
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Agreed. I pay the alignment shop to tell me I did a good job on customer’s trucks.

You could park on 2 layers of pizza box or something, but I usually go for a drive and recheck. With my own junk, I don’t give the alignment guys my $$. If it drives good and doesn’t wear the tires, it’s GOOD.