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I am going to have to put inner rocker, rocker panel, and floor pan in passenger side of my project 76. I am going to prob run a brace from rear of door opening to front of door opening to brace it up. Do i need to brace anywhere else for doing tihs? I am worried the cab will relax when i cut the rocker and the inner rocker out. Do I need to brace up anywhere else?
X2 how is the fwd cab mounts? Panel 112A70? What is the condition of the rest of the mount panels and the rubber bushings?
Take measurements from as many know and not going to change areas. Better to have it braced in a couple of places. And depending on how deep into the floor you go, make sure to have a way to support the cab weight, so it does not settle. Meaning blocked and braced from underneath.
It needs bushings, the cab mount is in pretty good shape. The floor pan rust starts just below the lower part of the cab mount. The inner rocker at the front like kick panel area and the door opening in front and the rocker toward the front is all pretty bad shape.
I wouldn't worry about bracing any of it. There is still plenty of structure to hold it together.
I am just worried about having inner and outer rocker out with the floor already so far gone in that one spot that the jambs will relax some. Appreciate all the input guys. Gonna be this springs project I guess. I have to fix panels and figure what I am gonna do with the 390. I have got it all apart and gonna start cleaning up the block and trying to round up some parts. I have been looking at northernautoparts for rebuild kit. They seem pretty reasonable on their kits.
I am just worried about having inner and outer rocker out with the floor already so far gone in that one spot that the jambs will relax some. Appreciate all the input guys. Gonna be this springs project I guess. I have to fix panels and figure what I am gonna do with the 390. I have got it all apart and gonna start cleaning up the block and trying to round up some parts. I have been looking at northernautoparts for rebuild kit. They seem pretty reasonable on their kits.
Agreed shouldn't need bracing. Before you start removing the old steel, take measurements (across the opening and diagonally across the opening). Tack everything back together and put the door on before getting carried away there, make sure it fits as you want it. .... make sure you write em down.... Sharpie on the B pillar is good. Make some reference marks. Take photos.
In some cases, I've cut door opening templates from wood before, even made a 3D model for one that I had to cut up particularly extensively and had a lot of compound curves/complex body lines. Those I do brace, for sure, but that was extra insurance. Doubt its necessary here.
If you try it without removing the door (sometimes, it's not strictly necessary although highly recommended), do the same but make sure that door is well supported or it (more than likely) will move the A pillar.
Also, x5 or whatever on your cab mounts. I'd bet money they are shot (or at least the one on the side you're working on). Now's the time.
Should I purchase inner rocker or should I just make it out of sheet metal? I can purchase it through Bronco Graveyard but the shipping on it particularly is so high.
By "inner rocker", are you referring to the rather thick pinch weld (*16506in diagram) with 90 degree lower lip that is about 2" or so inward from the outer rocker that you see under the door when shut? I don't know that you need extra bracing, but if I was attacking it on mine, I would be bracing somehow.
But then when building my house I never used just two or three 16s where 4 would fit.
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