I'm in !!! This is the current configuration for the system installed in my RV:

 

Where'd you get the perforated back panel?

 

Here - https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/...hole/pid/13499

I've update our system with two 300ah SFK-300HP batteries. Also added a Cerbo GX and a Touch70 screen.

 

Perfect, thank you!

Spent the big bucks having them custom cut to size. I'm in a bit of a rush to get this project done by May 1, along with other junk I'm doing to my Lance.
Plan is to offset with rubber feet 3/4 - 1" off the back and use 1/4-20 SS fasteners, probably with nutserts.
I'm guessing the proper methodology would be to test fit and mark the perforated panels, temporarily mount, figure out where components will go, then remove panel, install components and mount completed panel to the wall?

Haha.. couldn't remember where I saw this and spent the morning searching solar, lance and other forums. Forgot about my Ford buddies.

 

First let me say that your workmanship looks impeccable! And secondly, your wiring diagram is extremely professional. I noticed you labeled it as "MiniLite Power Wiring Diagram". What model MiniLite is this installed in? We have a MicroLite 25FKS and don't have anywhere near that much storage compartment room.

I've been piecing together our wiring diagram and some of the circuits they ran are ridiculous, both in where they physically placed the wires and the duplication of travel. What program did you use for the wiring diagram?

 

We have a 2020 2109S (21FBRS equivalent).

 

I saved myself some labor. I installed the back plane on standoffs (used 5/8" shelf standards) then mounted the equipment by driving long screws through the back plane into the plywood wall. I also got the idea from Tundra; worked great.

 

That perforated back plane is nice. The idea of using nutserts would have saved me a ton of time if I had used the perforated material.

 

That explains the room. I'm very familiar with that model.

What program are you using to draw your wiring diagrams?

 

I've drawn it both in AutoCAD and also Revit 3D.

 

I’m converting over to AGM starter batteries and installing a Victron Orion XS DC-DC 12/12 50A charger for my FWC. I noticed our 2022 Lariat F350 with dual batteries/alternators does NOT have a current sensor. I have seen threads on this site that confirm (with images of hall affect sensors) that some of you with the same build have them. We ordered the truck during the pandemic when many trucks could not be built with many parts due to supply chain problems.

I have attached an image of a connector and plug that is attached to the negative cable of the passenger side battery. That plug is what we called a place holder when I worked on the Ford assembly line (I made Pintos and Mustang IIs). When a wiring harness was made, it included connectors for all possible options regardless of whether the vehicle was getting the option installed or not.


Back in the day it was cheaper and faster to do it that way. Connectors that weren’t used had plugs inserted into them.

According to the owner’s manual, the truck has a Battery Management System (BMS). However, I suspect that any BMS is worthless without a current sensor someplace. Since this truck does not have a current sensor, what is the BMS doing if anything? Does it even have a BMS? Was this a supply chain-induced omission at the time so I got a plug instead of a sensor? Will converting over to AGMs cause a problem without the current sensor? How will this impact my DC-DC charger?

Pintos were so much less complicated than these trucks.

 

Without a Hall effect sensor or a shunt, the BMS is probably just tracking voltage. If it believes the batteries are getting to a low SOC, it will disable features on the truck to try and preserve enough power to start.

Converting over to AGMs won't cause an issue - plenty of folks here have done it, myself included. FWIW there are battery type settings in the BCM that can be changed to reflect the type installed in the truck. I changed mine to AGM, plenty of people just throw the AGMs in and go. I haven't read anything here saying just throwing them in causes any issues so don't sweat it.

Not having a current sensor won't affect your DC-DC charger. My truck doesn't have a sensor. Just ensure you run heavy enough cable from the battery to the DC-DC to support pulling over 50 amps and it will be fine. I'd also pull a smaller gauge wire so you can use a switch to control the DC-DC unit. I know Victron can auto-detect if the truck is running but there may be times when you are driving that you don't want the DC-DC putting extra load on the vehicle's electrical system. One example is if you are stuck in traffic in a warm area, it's raining cats and dogs, you have the AC on high to defrost and cool, the stereo is going, your headlights and wipers are on, your brake lights are constantly on as you creep forward - and you are not moving or spinning the alternators fast enough to keep them cool with the extra 50+ amp load from the DC-DC charger. Turning off the DC-DC might be desirable in a scenario like that.

Pintos WERE less complicated. My older brother drove them to throw newspapers out of. He removed all the passenger seats, filled it up with hundreds of the LA Times, drove the crap out it all around Palos Verdes, Torrance, Redondo Beach, etc. Great, reliable cars. He killed two of them doing that over a 15 year span.

 

My '22 350 has a single battery and no hall sensor. AGM works fine.

 

When my driver side OEM battery failed (for the second time) I replaced both batteries with AGM. I have yet to change the battery type with FORScan so I connect my AGM-capable smart charger whenever the truck will spend more than a few days in the garage. I'm pretty sure I killed an AGM in my prior truck due to the truck not having an AGM charge profile and me not using a smart charger. Did the same with a set of AGM batteries in my side-by-side but I was able to recondition them back. I tend to learn the hard way. Now, every AGM battery in my cars and trucks gets some TLC with the smart charger.

 

Great input from everybody. I don’t have FORscan (yet), so I’ll throw in the AGMs and watch them closely. The DC-DC charger switch line is a great idea. I have 20' of 6 AWG battery cable which should worked fine for the recommended 20 -30 amp charging specification for my lithium batteries.