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Can someone help me with wiring the Orion xs 50 to my upfitter switches?
Can I simply run a wire from the Orion to an upfitter and control the Orion with the switch?
What gauge wire do I use?
Which port on the Orion do I plug into (remote L or H)?
My plan is to run 2awg from truck battery to an Anderson 175 connector in box, then mate that to an Anderson 4awg 175 connector in my camper with wire to the Orion.
One other question I had is - would it be best to run positive wire to one truck battery and the negative wire to the second truck battery seeing as they are setup in parallel? Would that distribute the load across both batteries better or not necessary?
Thanks!
Second part, first: Don't do that. Run them both from the main battery (passenger side on 2022). Run the negative through the truck's BMS loop so it can measure the load.
I have the Orion XS in my travel trailer. You would need to add an open/close relay to use the upfitter switch. The switch would close the relay to turn it on. But, owning one, I see no reason to do that. You can program the Orion to only run under certain conditions, such as truck is running, or voltage is high enough, etc. It's quite flexible. If you really want to override your programming, just turn it off in the Victron App. It connects via Bluetooth easily from the cab of your truck.
The switch wire for the Orion XS doesn't have to be very large. It's basically just a signal wire which doesn't carry much current. I can't find any guidelines on wire size. 14 gauge is what I would use because that's the smallest I have sitting around, but I suspect you could get by with smaller wire.
I don't think it matters which port is which. As long as the circuit is closed. I don't think you want to use the Upfitter switch if it's sending current.
Here's a thread from the Victron Community that discussions how the remote is to be wired up.
Wiring power the way you proposed would spread the load over both batteries. But since they're already wired in parallel, it's probably not worth the extra effort.
What Jim said....not worth the effort. Run both #2 leads to whichever battery you choose, connect the positive to the battery, connect the negative to a frame ground, not the battery. That way your BMS will sense current correctly. I guess you could run it through the BMS loop, but not sure how that would work. I believe the upfitters guide says to connect accessories via a frame ground. This is how mine is connected; no issues.
What Jim said....not worth the effort. Run both #2 leads to whichever battery you choose, connect the positive to the battery, connect the negative to a frame ground, not the battery. That way your BMS will sense current correctly. I guess you could run it through the BMS loop, but not sure how that would work. I believe the upfitters guide says to connect accessories via a frame ground. This is how mine is connected; no issues.
Scott, I suppose your meant Scott .
For high current applications it's not recommended to use the frame. Even the factory winch goes direct to battery. I added a photo of the bms above.
Apparently, all those aluminum panels have been shown to cause issues in this scenario.
I'm running 8 Gauge welding wire from each battery to 2 DC to DC charger 40 amps/each. I see high 70's amperage with no interruptions while idling or underway. Super flexible and very easy to work with.
Scott, I suppose your meant Scott .
For high current applications it's not recommended to use the frame. Even the factory winch goes direct to battery. I added a photo of the bms above.
Apparently, all those aluminum panels have been shown to cause issues in this scenario.
Maybe, maybe not since I'm Jim.
I'm not a fan of using the frame for the negative lead. That's just me and my basis for my position is the conductivity chart below. The counter-argument is that the frame, even though it's steel, is a better conductor than a copper cable because it's so big. This is a valid argument because when there is voltage drop on a wire the solution is to go with a bigger wire. The way I figure, I'm already running one wire so running a second wire isn't going to double the time or effort. Obviously it will double the cost.
When I use aluminum busbars between the cell terminals in the batteries I create, the aluminum busbar has to be almost twice the cross section of a copper busbar. But the conductivity of steel compared to copper is dismal. More info here.
Since the device in that picture is a hall effect sensor, you can make all the connections you want at the battery as long as the cable is routed through the sensor with all the other wires. Good luck getting larger wire through it. LOL!
Right on, thanks guys!
I think I will skip the upfitter switch idea for now. Try running it with the app and I'm sure it'll be fine.
I'm not sure what to do with my ground wire now though lol.
Mine is a 2017 and I don't see one of those bms loops anywhere. I followed both battery negative cables as far as I could see and I didn't see a loop.
How do I know which is my primary battery? I was going to run the Orion wires to the driver side battery for convenience and to keep the run as short as possible.
lots of folks are using victron..here in the northeast it’s a 4 week plus wait for victron shipping .
found a brand called hqst which sells equipment that looks a lot like and has renegy specs. 1/3rd the price of victron so I bought two so I can setup in parallel mode and they shipped 4 hrs from when I ordered. Dc is dc and the branding doesn’t make it to the battery…just the dc does.
Did you route through the cab in and out, or did you route the cables down the frame?
Down under frame. Made sure they were tied up well. In my case they come up behind cab to 2 Anderson connectors which connect to the connectors on truck camper side.
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