DC-DC Charger
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 949
Likes: 330
From: Colorado Rockies
Very nice, clean install; good job. A max of about 45A is what I have seen from my twin 30's on #4 wire (all depends on how much current the batteries want), so that is a good upgrade.
Why would you need to connect to your DC-DC units if the truck is not in the loop? There are just sitting there idle.
Why would you need to connect to your DC-DC units if the truck is not in the loop? There are just sitting there idle.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 96
Likes: 74
Very nice, clean install; good job. A max of about 45A is what I have seen from my twin 30's on #4 wire (all depends on how much current the batteries want), so that is a good upgrade.
Why would you need to connect to your DC-DC units if the truck is not in the loop? There are just sitting there idle.
Why would you need to connect to your DC-DC units if the truck is not in the loop? There are just sitting there idle.
It's nice to be able to adjust parameters, update the unit, etc. without having to drive the truck down the hill to the trailer and connecting it.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 96
Likes: 74
The sheet is mounted to 1"x1" aluminum extrusion with bolts/T-nuts and the extrusion is screwed to the trailer chassis.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,694
Likes: 12,819
From: Wyoming
What do you think of the Lynx components? They seem to take up a lot of space, but within that same space it accounts for both positive and negative cables.
In case I didn't say it already, that's a very professional looking build.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 62
Likes: 34
From: Utah
Larger AWG for the win
Where I roam in the UT desert, temps can easily reach over 110 F and the metal sitting in the sun prob gets close to 160 F - 180F or higher. I have a LiTime DC-DC charger with 60 Amp capacity. I used 2 AWG to run from engine compartment to pickup bed where my Lithium batteries are located.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 96
Likes: 74
Thanks for the specs on the perforated sheet. I see you used an offset pattern. Did you have any issues lining up the holes of the components? I like what you did there and was thinking of using a straight pattern. I may mount the inverter on the sheet. I suppose 1/8" sheet would support that as long as there's enough extrusion behind it.
What do you think of the Lynx components? They seem to take up a lot of space, but within that same space it accounts for both positive and negative cables.
In case I didn't say it already, that's a very professional looking build.
What do you think of the Lynx components? They seem to take up a lot of space, but within that same space it accounts for both positive and negative cables.
In case I didn't say it already, that's a very professional looking build.
I agree, the Lynx components seem to take up a lot of space. I converted my distributor to a Power In basically, I added mega fuses inside.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 1,171
From: East TN
Everything worked out for me with the offset holes, I believe I ended up having to drill maybe two holes for the disconnect switch.
I agree, the Lynx components seem to take up a lot of space. I converted my distributor to a Power In basically, I added mega fuses inside.
I agree, the Lynx components seem to take up a lot of space. I converted my distributor to a Power In basically, I added mega fuses inside.
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 96
Likes: 74
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
charging flooded deep cycle
Yeah, I missed the 20% but my statement still stands. At the time of his issue, he only had 270ah, now he has twice that. But this is also about amp hour management, and management of expectations... knowing the system and its charging efficiency so you're not left in the "dark." When his solar isn't operating at peak (cloudy/rain), then his generator comes into play. Running down your batteries to a low SOC, then expecting whatever charge from the truck alternator to fully charge your trailer batteries isn't normally realistic, especially during a relatively short trip. Even if a fella is getting 50a of charge, as you mentioned, to charge the 540ah battery bank that's at 20% SOC will still need over 8 hours of charging time (again, assuming the alt survives). Not a situation I would call reliable and outside of a cross-country trip of many hours, it's not always reasonable to expect your truck to fully replenish your RV batteries from a low SOC at any realistic charging rate.
I've never advocated for the OP to get an 18amp charger, or that he sets up his system the way I have mine. I merely shared my experience and advocated that he does need a DC-DC charger of some kind. I also shared that at least on my truck (the longest configuration), it's possible to get adequate voltage at the 7-pin at the truck bumper, which might save him some money and time. All the warnings about voltage drop at the bumper have not proven true on my truck, and I've had no issues keeping my lithiums topped off with my measly little 18a DC-DC charger and power from the 7-pin. But I built my system to accommodate my needs. I think the OP needs to investigate ALL the possibilities and then make his decision. He needs to build his system according to his needs, and wire it according to those needs and what's comfortable for him. If that's coming off the bumper, fine. If that's coming off the truck battery, also fine. Doesn't matter to me.
I've never advocated for the OP to get an 18amp charger, or that he sets up his system the way I have mine. I merely shared my experience and advocated that he does need a DC-DC charger of some kind. I also shared that at least on my truck (the longest configuration), it's possible to get adequate voltage at the 7-pin at the truck bumper, which might save him some money and time. All the warnings about voltage drop at the bumper have not proven true on my truck, and I've had no issues keeping my lithiums topped off with my measly little 18a DC-DC charger and power from the 7-pin. But I built my system to accommodate my needs. I think the OP needs to investigate ALL the possibilities and then make his decision. He needs to build his system according to his needs, and wire it according to those needs and what's comfortable for him. If that's coming off the bumper, fine. If that's coming off the truck battery, also fine. Doesn't matter to me.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 121
Likes: 36
Hi everyone. Getting in on this thread way late and appreciate all the good info. I have a TT and a work trailer so want to mount the DC to DC charge on the tow vehicle. Both trailers have flooded deep cycle batteries. I understand flooded batteries don't necessarily need DC to DC charger but when using a smart alternator it is recommended. Any thoughts on this? I am very interested in how you're getting enough amps thru the OEM 7 pin.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,694
Likes: 12,819
From: Wyoming
I wouldn't bother using a DC-DC charger for flooded lead acid batteries. Through the 7-pin you're going to get no more than 30 amps, per the fuse. Reality is that the amps will be much lower, in the 10 to 15 range. RCSB has a shorter run of wire, so should - in theory - have better results. CCLB is going to be less.
If you want more current into your trailer batteries you'll need to run much heavier dedicated cable from the engine compartment to the rear of the truck and from there to the trailer battery or DC-DC charger.
General recommendation is to put the DC-DC charger as close to the battery as possible. Not all DC-DC chargers are rated for weather.
If you want more current into your trailer batteries you'll need to run much heavier dedicated cable from the engine compartment to the rear of the truck and from there to the trailer battery or DC-DC charger.
General recommendation is to put the DC-DC charger as close to the battery as possible. Not all DC-DC chargers are rated for weather.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Can someone help me with wiring the Orion xs 50 to my upfitter switches?
Can I simply run a wire from the Orion to an upfitter and control the Orion with the switch?
What gauge wire do I use?
Which port on the Orion do I plug into (remote L or H)?
My plan is to run 2awg from truck battery to an Anderson 175 connector in box, then mate that to an Anderson 4awg 175 connector in my camper with wire to the Orion.
One other question I had is - would it be best to run positive wire to one truck battery and the negative wire to the second truck battery seeing as they are setup in parallel? Would that distribute the load across both batteries better or not necessary?
Thanks!
Can I simply run a wire from the Orion to an upfitter and control the Orion with the switch?
What gauge wire do I use?
Which port on the Orion do I plug into (remote L or H)?
My plan is to run 2awg from truck battery to an Anderson 175 connector in box, then mate that to an Anderson 4awg 175 connector in my camper with wire to the Orion.
One other question I had is - would it be best to run positive wire to one truck battery and the negative wire to the second truck battery seeing as they are setup in parallel? Would that distribute the load across both batteries better or not necessary?
Thanks!