Catch can users - question
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Catch can users - question
Greetings
question for catch can users
im am wondering if the contents of the catch can is mostly fuel or oil or water?
My 2019 had the replaceable filters and my metro driving results in high fuel dilution…
I initially was going to go filter less baffle type ccv with no catch can but now wonder about having any gases going back into the crank case under the assumption a lot of that could be fuel and will just increase fuel dilution.
question for catch can users
im am wondering if the contents of the catch can is mostly fuel or oil or water?
My 2019 had the replaceable filters and my metro driving results in high fuel dilution…
I initially was going to go filter less baffle type ccv with no catch can but now wonder about having any gases going back into the crank case under the assumption a lot of that could be fuel and will just increase fuel dilution.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2018
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Mine appears to me mostly oil and water. What I catch in mine does not smell like diesel fuel. I get some nasty sludgy crap in the winter, appears to be water and oil, mostly just oil in smaller quantity for the warmer months.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Western NY
In the hot weather, it's oil or at least resembles used oil (black). It has a burnt smell to it. You can run it the whole summer season and not have to worry about the can filling up.
Once the weather starts to cool off some, game over... it fills with water and the water soaked oil that has a tannish to dark brown color. But it's mostly water and a smaller, much smaller amount of "goop." I like to drain it by at least 1k miles, but the last drain was right under 1k miles and had about 100 ml of water (which isn't up to the top yet >>> probably about 2/3 full) with some goop left in the can. It will freeze when cold so be aware of that for drains. I drain after I get home from work so it's liquid. I have glass lab beakers and measure the water to kind of give me a good estimation of how long to run before drain. I'd say if you install one soon, during cold weather, start checking at 500 miles to see how much water your truck produces.
Once the weather starts to cool off some, game over... it fills with water and the water soaked oil that has a tannish to dark brown color. But it's mostly water and a smaller, much smaller amount of "goop." I like to drain it by at least 1k miles, but the last drain was right under 1k miles and had about 100 ml of water (which isn't up to the top yet >>> probably about 2/3 full) with some goop left in the can. It will freeze when cold so be aware of that for drains. I drain after I get home from work so it's liquid. I have glass lab beakers and measure the water to kind of give me a good estimation of how long to run before drain. I'd say if you install one soon, during cold weather, start checking at 500 miles to see how much water your truck produces.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Western NY
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Wisconsin
Can I ask why even bother with a catch can? In spring time I plan on doing a ccv reroute and plan on the extension hose all the way out the back and don't care to see what comes out, kind of like my septic tank at home...I know whats going on but don't care to see whats in it lol.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 502
Can I ask why even bother with a catch can? In spring time I plan on doing a ccv reroute and plan on the extension hose all the way out the back and don't care to see what comes out, kind of like my septic tank at home...I know whats going on but don't care to see whats in it lol.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,438
Likes: 732
From: Wisconsin
With the engine running and the turbo "pulling " in at the ccv hose under normal conditions, I assume the turbo can act like a small shop vac sucking the cc gases fast enough that the catch can is useless at this point (especially on boost). The droplets won't have the time needed to properly separate and settle to the bottom.... and once again are in the air stream, into the turbo, etc. Back when I raced motorcycles we would put on a hose to the ccv, route it so it was lower than the engine into a small plastic jar with holes in the lid, the gases would vent into the jar...gases would escape to the atmosphere (through the hole in lid) and after so many races I would have to empty the jar of crud.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Western NY
SPE MOTORSPORT 2011+ 6.7L POWERSTROKE RECIRCULATING CCV KIT
They also make their own catch can kit to go with their CCV reroute kit.Seems to me there's a demand for a oil catch can kit, or they wanted to run one on their own trucks that have their CCV reroute kit on in PA. Plus customers could have been asking for one also, just like their own CCV box linked above.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 502
With the engine running and the turbo "pulling " in at the ccv hose under normal conditions, I assume the turbo can act like a small shop vac sucking the cc gases fast enough that the catch can is useless at this point (especially on boost). The droplets won't have the time needed to properly separate and settle to the bottom.... and once again are in the air stream, into the turbo, etc. Back when I raced motorcycles we would put on a hose to the ccv, route it so it was lower than the engine into a small plastic jar with holes in the lid, the gases would vent into the jar...gases would escape to the atmosphere (through the hole in lid) and after so many races I would have to empty the jar of crud.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,438
Likes: 732
From: Wisconsin
Last summer I disconnected my ccv hose to the turbo, I then plugged that opening on the turbo with a rubber cap, so the hose from the factory "catch can" will do its thing separating the gases while the disconnected hose dumped to the road. This worked fine but looked silly, and those internal aluminum perforated filters that go inside the vc, I can see it clogging up and stop functioning..............all this convinces me to just route the tube and dump it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,969
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From: Western NY
That may be the case, but the turbo is sucking through the large 3" intake tube with the smaller 3/4 CCV tube just sort of along for the ride. It shouldn't have a strong suction on the crank case. The catch can has sort of a steel wool type crap in it to try and help separate the oil from the air. Also, the intention is the air making a 180 degree turn, the hope is most of the oil gets dropped out of suspension at that stage. I have the Mishimoto catch can which goes between the crank case vent and the factory oil/air separator. The catch can becomes the first line of defense, then it has to go through the factory air/oil separator before hitting the intake. It may not be perfect, but it's better than the factory setup for pulling oil out of the crank case vented air and there aren't any drips to deal with either.
They do say to wash the media, so with that, I ended up removing the sponge/cage from the can, once again washing it with the sponge still inside the cage and it still fell apart. I ordered another warranty can. They just send you the complete can. Pulled out the cage with sponge in the truck can and was done with it. I'll never touch it again.
I wish they would make a newer design with stainless steel like the SPE CCV box has. I'd be curious to how well the SPE CCV box filters out the oil from the CCV gases. I'm open to possibly getting one in the future.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Western NY
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,438
Likes: 732
From: Wisconsin
For the price and basically the same results I'm going with this in the spring time
https://swagperformanceparts.com/swa...v-reroute-kit/
https://swagperformanceparts.com/swa...v-reroute-kit/
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