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After bolting up the accelerator pedal to the firewall for test fitting I’m a little concerned about the tension on the throttle return spring for the carb. I humbly admit that I have very little experience with carbs as most of my life has been spent working on fuel injected GM and Mopar stuff. The carb is a Qwik Fuel Slayer 750 which is a 4150 style carb. I’m currently using the stock return spring and bracket from the two barrel Autolite that was stock on the 360. I’m wondering if it’s just too much tension. When I open the carb by hand it’s fairly easy until you get to about 3/4 throttle at which point it almost hurts your hand to move it. The carb moves smoothly when the spring is not connected, although the resistance does pick up quite a bit at the end of travel near WOT. Here’s a picture of my setup. Just how much is too much? I’m worried about wearing out things like the throttle shaft bore as well as exhausting the driver’s foot.
That spring looks to be wound tighter than most I've seen, shorter, and of fat stiff wire too. All that translates to a harder pull sooner in travel.
I like my second spring to pull opposite the throttle too. I keep meaning to make a taller front most anchor. Old picture, but I use the springs whether Holley (current) or Edelbrock (then).
Duly noted about the pedal rod linkage. I noticed last night the it needs to be lengthened. I get to WOT far before the pedal hits the floor. Should probably wait until the carpet is installed to make that adjustment though.
Duly noted about the pedal rod linkage. I noticed last night the it needs to be lengthened. I get to WOT far before the pedal hits the floor. Should probably wait until the carpet is installed to make that adjustment though.
That holley part sure is nice and will solve your issue that's for sure. It's all a matter of whether you need the $60. for something else.
That almost looks like a rear drum brake spring. Just hit up the parts house place or even the farm and ranch store, (TSC) and get some different options for coil springs. You can easily experiment with how much tension you and your foot like to have, based off the tightness of the spring, the length and the material thickness.
Sometimes putting 2 not so stiff ones together (one inside the other) works to get the tension you like. Like easy to work the 2 bbl part and them more tension come WOT/4bbl time. I have a stiffer throttle spring on my rock crawler Bronco so when bouncing around the rocks I am not throttle popping it from my foot bouncing on the gas pedal.
I also remember going from a MC 2bbl to a 4bbl and having to mod/adjust the throttle linkage a lot. I am not sure it the 2bbl stuff even would work. It has been a while.
I thought the same thing a while ago, but it definitely didn’t come from the drums. The refurb on those was farmed out to the place that rebuilt my rear diff so I never even so much as touched those brakes. My pics of the disassembly confirmed that the spring shown above was the one that was on the 2 barrel. Barely visible but you can see it at the very top of the photo below. Maybe Granda did what he usually did and just replaced something that broke with whatever he could find?
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