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Code tagTrying to decode this truck. Project just starting for a friend and now has cancer so instead of trying to figure out all this on my own and taking forever decided to go with the experts and gather on your combined wisdom. Have Vin tag mostly figured out I think. Appears to be a 50 ,F5,with 239 flathead. The paint code is getting me.
truck came out of MN if that's helpful. Also background or any extra details I get will be passed on to the owner.
Welcome to FTE and the best bunch of guys you can find online.
You've got it sorted out pretty well.
49/50 1 1/2T V8 239 flathead 284626 is right on the cusp between 1949 and 1950
As you marked over the build code it looks like 1 SP 1A 103845
First character should be color. It looks like meadow green but that was code 7. I don't have a code for 1
Characters 2 and 3 SP is for Saint Paul Assembly plant
1A should be the build date of Jan 1, 1950 - I doubt anybody was building truck on Jan 1 which makes me wonder what it is supposed to be?
103845 is vehicle down the line and has no meaning outside the assembly plant
Tim
Welcome to the forum! We really need to see more of your beautiful truck. You've done well sharing your details so far. You've decoded the serial number correctly. A 50 F5 with the 239 V8. That's about all there is to know there. The Branch code SP is the assembly plant, St. Paul., MN. The production code should read paint code, plant code, and date code. Yours is about as hard to read as any of them. Too often they don't have clear stampings. What color does your truck seem to be? Code 7 is listed as Meadow Green, 4 is Birch Gray. Those are really the only choices given what we can see there. Your date code looks like 1A or 4A, the number part is hard to say. What we do know is your truck was built in the first few days of January, 1950. It's about as early of a '50 as you're likely to find. Cool stuff.
PS, it looks like Tim and I were typing at the same time. At least we concur.
Thank you guys for the information! My Mom was the post asking for help, she's good at finding the help and information we need on current projects. I'll chime in here and ask a couple questions and add some information. First question... If the sequence read 7SP7A103845 Would that make more sense? The truck has been repainted blue but is a greenish color underneath. From what I'm understanding 7 would mean a greenish color? Also if that's the case is there a current number for a good match we can use for new paint? My father-in-law purchased this truck from south west Minnesota for a couple thousand to park and use as backdrop for photos at a hunting lodge. Me being a young guy that likes to make things run, told him we should get it back on the road after seeing the flathead. Project has grown and the truck will be going to a professional auto body shop to bring her back to former glory. As Mom mentioned, my father-in-law was diagnosed with cancer so we are pushing to get it done for him. Thanks for your help!! Here's a couple more photos of the project.
Sweet! Another larger truck here! Thanks for sharing pictures! A word or warning, it looks like you have the dreaded Firestone RH-5° rims, which are the true widow makers rims (not to be confused with lock ring rims which the uninformed sometimes also call widow makers): https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20745688
That looks like a nice solid truck - definitely worth the effort to get it running again.
Sorry to hear about your FIL and cancer. Prayers for you all as you go thru that journey!
The production code on the firewall looks to me like 4SP4A103845 and as Wayne said, that was the code for Silvertone gray. It's hard to tell from a picture online. As meadow green fades from age it starts to look a little more grayish. Behind the seat and under the cardboard kick panels under the dash are places that usually don't get painted in a re-paint. You might look there.
You are correct that 7 was code for a color called Meadow Green and is a medium shade of green.
A good auto-paint store or online should find color matches. The original Ford numbers were: Meadow Green M-14283 and Silvertone Gray is M-14197
edit: as a matter of interest for you, Ford was using the calendar year as the model year for the early F series trucks, so a January build was actually the first of the 1950 models assembled. I think it was in 1951 Ford switched back to the fall for the model year.
Oh man, what a wealth of information, thanks again to all of you! I will look at a few places better but it sure seems like it was meadow green. I'll post some good shots of old paint places, y'all can back me up if I'm right. They are the "widow maker" wheels, and are causing problems sense no tire shops I've talked to will touch them (I don't blame them). What's out there for conversions, is there a one piece reproduction a feller can get? Also, breaks will be my next step, Dad wants completely new break system. What's a good outlet for those parts? I do have it running! Runs great after sitting 20+ years, no smoking! I did go through and install all new gaskets, thermostats, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, vac advance, fuel pump, and waiting on a new radiator, but it fired and kinda ran on the old stuff. Thanks guys!
As discussed in the link thread, these are the current production options. They are not exactly click and order, but a call knowing what you need size and cosmetic wise with a big checkbook and order (and shared quite regularly around here already):
OTR Wheel - https://www.otrwheel.com/ - their website doesn't list our applications. One would have to investigate further.
For used rims, you can look for safer lock ring 20" wheels, or tubeless single piece 19.5 or 22.5. Of the later, 22.5 is more desirable. Rim width should be in the neighborhood of between 5 and 6.5 (as appropriate for the desired matches tire).
As for brake parts:
Readily Available (Not necessarily by application. Let me/us know what you need and we can point you)
Master Cylinder
Wheel Cylinders
Flexible Hoses
Brake Switch
3 way fitting Brake Manifold
Not available
Shoes (get your existing ones relined - have the shop pick the best material that will save your drums as the expense of more frequent relining)
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