OK, I'm taking advice from a really smart guy.
I've opened this thread on that advice.
My serpentine tensioner went bad. Now that is where it gets weird. when I went to pull it off, I loosened the top bolt and the damn thing fell. The center bolt was broke. Now I am a pretty good mechanic but I have to ask. What is the safest way to extract a bolt. I have done many bolt removals in my day, but this is my motor. So any comments on a better way to remove it will be much appreciated.

 

Did it break clean or jagged? You might be able to get in there with a long narrow sharp punch and lightly tap on an edge to get it to turn. If then works just keep at it until theres enough to grab onto. Otherwise, your typical screw extractor is your only option. B.

 

Those mounting bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 18 lb-ft so it shouldn't be that hard to get it out with an extractor, unless of course it broke because it was way over torqued. It you take the stator off, there is all kinds of room to work. More if you pull the radiator. I've had the best luck with cobalt drills and the square tapered type of extractor. The trick is starting the hole in the center of the bolt on an uneven surface. Center drills are good for that.



https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sc...-walled-parts/




https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ce...lathe-centers/

You could also throw a heat gun into the mix. The aluminum will expand more than the bolt it surrounds.

This is one project I wouldn't even think twice about digging into. And don't forget the Kroil or PB Blaster.

Good luck, Dave!

 

As LB said, often, you can back them out. Other than a punch, the broken-off end mates well to the remaining half, pushing towards the remaining piece.

When that does not work, I have a set of left-handed drill bits that I use for this situation. Often, the bit will catch the broken bolt and spin it out.

 

I'll go out this morning and try to insert broke bolt, and try to ease it out. Other than that I have a machinist coming out when I get back from Georgia.
Thank God for backup trucks.
Thanks guys. As always, really good info.

 

Post up a pic

 

Still in Atlanta. Will update when I get home. Sorry guys family first.

 

I've found that work is always getting in the way too. Stupid work...

 

This is the best method I've ever found for removing bolts, combined with a good dose of patience. Quite often, UNLESS they're rusted or loctited, when the head breaks, the tension on the threads is released and they tap out quite easily. REMOVING and DISPOSING of that stupidass stator will make life and working on your engine 100000% easier.

 

Oh no, now you did it. Going to start a whole new can of worms

 

Bolts out.
Ended up taking a drimal tool and flattening the tip of the bolt to where we could get a center ponch to bite. Then we drilled it and used an easy out to remove it. Took a couple hours, but all worked out.
And on a side note, I left that ----ing stater off. I'll watch my temps to see if there is any major difference. If so, I'll put it back on.
Thanks for all the input guys.
Dave.
Merry Christmas and Happy New. Year.

 

I live in the rust belt and there are a lot of dirt roads around here, I also works on these trucks pretty much every day. I do many broken bolts and plenty of exhaust manifold manifolds. Depending on the circumstances there are a few different methods, but this tool is my number one tool I use. i buy 1/8 round nose end mill cutters with 4 flutes by the dozens, 1 bit will do 1-2 broken exhaust manifold bolt depending on how much rust you hit with it.
I can center drill the broken bolt and get a hole through the center then either drill it with a regular drill bit or continue with the Sioux. most exhaust exhaust manifold bolts can be done in 10-15 minutes, depending on rust.
I have probably every different tool there is for doing these broken bolts and this tool is usually my "go to" tool, it's such a valuable tool I also have the Dotco version because I don't want to be stuck in the middle of a job and have a problem with the tool.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36277888384...3847&recoPos=1

 

So you're using a 4-flute 1/8" ball end mill to start and sometimes finish drilling the hole in the broken stud. And then you use an easy-out or what?