When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Recently my 6.9 idi has been having a stalling issue. If I rev the engine when parked, or let off the throttle when I’m driving it will die and start right back up. But as soon as I tap the gas pedal and let off it dies again, starts up just fine, give it gas and let off, and it dies.
i heard this can be caused by the metering valve sticking inside the injection pump, so I removed the top cover off the pump, filled it with ATF, replaced the fuel filter and filled it with atf too, ran it for about a minute, shut it off, and let it sit overnight.
The next day it was running much better, so over the next few days I kept repeating this process until eventually the truck ran great again and had no issues. Fast forwards about a week or so, I let the truck sit in the driveway for about 5 days and now it’s running just as bad as before. I tried the ATF trick again but it did not help
Does this mean I should start looking into replacing the injection pump? If so what company sells a good Stanadyne DB2 pump? The engine is bone stock, it is in a 1986 f250. I just want to make sure I’m getting a pump from a reputable supplier and not some cheapie that’ll only last a year
I haven't bought an injection pump from CDD but I bought a huge rear fuel tank from them. My only complaint is that the directions could have been more clear but they were prompt with shipping and the product was in great condition when it arrived. Didn't have any issues with them. It was a sweet deal because they were selling "damaged" versions of the tank for a discounted price. The one I got has a small dent in the bottom corner but it functions perfectly fine. I wouldn't hesitate to order something through them again.
Put a direct line from the pump to the fuel filter. When pump is on fuel flows well when i depress the filter schrader. It will start for about 3 seconds then it starves for fuel. Replaced electric pump, no difference.
Years ago the rear tank was leaking. It was shot and I bought a new one but have not put it in yet. The front rear switch is set to front.
Fuel filter is new but i have not tested flow post filter othe than depressing the schrader valve.
I like the idea of putting the pump near the tank.
Since you have two tanks you could be sucking air from the unused tank side. Sometimes the valve doesn't get all the way to one tank leaving a gap for air to get in. Try either plugging the unused fuel lines or installing the rear tank and put fuel in it. I have had my valve stick partially and it drew from both tanks. I think I dislodged whatever was making my valve stick by filling both tanks and at highway speed switched tanks every 2 miles for about 40 miles. What ever was holding my valve from fully selecting a tank got flushed out and I'm back to a normal two tank operation.
More specs: 1985 F250 6.9, 8ft bed, 4x4, Automatic.
Checked all of the connections to the injectors and the injector pump post filter, all are tight. Tubes between injectors are fine.
Going to put in the rear tank today as suggested in case the front/rear selection switch is pulling air from the rear lines.
I also want to pull a line post filter with the fuel pump on and see if fluid comes out, maybe there is a block in the filter manifold...? Is schrader output post filter?
Could this problem be a bad injection pump? Am I missing something else? I'm running out of variables.
Schrader is after the filter. When ever I change filters I use a short hose from an old screw on bike pump attached to the Schrader valve and led to a jar so I can see it while I'm cranking and filling the filter. When filter is full I get a good stream of fuel into the jar.
Schrader is after the filter. When ever I change filters I use a short hose from an old screw on bike pump attached to the Schrader valve and led to a jar so I can see it while I'm cranking and filling the filter. When filter is full I get a good stream of fuel into the jar.
I should add that I renew my fuel filter with a warmed up engine. With the new filter in place you can start the truck as there will still be some fuel to burn. The engine turning will operate your mechanical lift pump and reduce the cranking needed to fill the filter. If you have an electric lift pump you can probably fill the filter by just turning the key to on while bleeding air at the Schrader valve.
redbug, the simplest thing to do, to rule out variables is to unhook the supply line to the lift pump (mechanical or electrical)and run a hose to it directly from a 5 gal jug of diesel fuel and then see if the IP will prime then. If it does, and starts running, then you know you've got a problem fuel pump back to tanks. If it doesn't then you know you've got a problem fuel pump to injectors. This really narrows things right down. Just keep in mind, the fuel will return to whichever fuel tank you have selected (if the selector valve is working as it should), so if you do this with a full tank,it could overflow that tank.
Make sure that factory water separator is bypassed on your early IDI and that you're using one with a universal built in filter and or just the duralift electric pump will catch it. Those were notorious for leaking.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.