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6 cylinder exhaust

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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 10:15 AM
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Motor Dysphoria's Avatar
Motor Dysphoria
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6 cylinder exhaust

Hi,
I have a 1952 ohv 215 I6. I've been told that the card is the same as the one used to bend for a flathead 6. Does it sound right that the manifold exit is the same size and location for both motors?

On a side note, I noticed a crack in the manifold. Anyone have instructions on how to weld unobtainium? I'm considering https://ezweldtigwire.com/products/

Also sounds like I'll need to be careful separating the intake and exhaust manifolds?

Hope everyone enjoyed Thanksgiving

 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 12:15 PM
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The 215 used the EAG-9510-B Carburetor, a Holley 1904 variant.


The common truck 226 used the 7HT-9510-A which is a Holley 847 variant. The larger 254 also used a 847 variant with an 1/8" larger throat and wider spacing between the mounting holes.

So, no, not the same carburetors.

As for the welding repair of the unobtanium, I think it would be better to find an experienced professional than risk it yourself.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 01:02 PM
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Check these folks out for the exhaust parts, I bought a muffler for mine it was exact.

https://www.dixieexhaustworks.com/
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 01:07 PM
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Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 01:18 PM
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My '52 215 ohv I-6. Exhaust manifold cracks. .................... vs. 223?

I agree that it looks like the manifolds are different. I assume this is what I'm reading about when they mention a 45° angle.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 04:15 PM
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For what it is worth, the 226 exhaust manifold outlet location is different from cars and trucks. Same engine, but different motor mount locations, so the exhaust routing has to be right if you use one for a truck.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 07:21 PM
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My left exhaust manifold not only cracked, the entire flange broke off. A local guy braised it. He said welding cast iron was difficult and unreliable. Mine has held up for 3 years +.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2023 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Ingram
My left exhaust manifold not only cracked, the entire flange broke off. A local guy braised it. He said welding cast iron was difficult and unreliable. Mine has held up for 3 years +.
That's good news.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2023 | 10:05 AM
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I had a block with a broken ear. Took it to a shop in Nevada Iowa. They put the hole block in a oven. Welded or brazed a new ear on. I reassembled the engine with original parts since it was a new car. Drove it for years and hundred thousand. Wasn't the first casting he had repaired for me. Find a good shop, the guy that does it for a living has to be good.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2023 | 01:08 PM
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dm me as i have a good manifold that is straight and one that is a 90.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2023 | 01:11 PM
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with intakes if you want them
shoot me an offer as i have no use for them

on another note headers are made for the 215/223/262 if you trust them.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2024 | 04:21 PM
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follow-up on 215 exhaust manifold

Originally Posted by Motor Dysphoria

My '52 215 ohv I-6. Exhaust manifold cracks. .................... vs. 223?

I agree that it looks like the manifolds are different. I assume this is what I'm reading about when they mention a 45° angle.
Following up, I did not use ez weld tig wire. I did try to tig braze with a regular Si Bronze wire. Didn't go well. I blew some small holes in it so I made myself stop. Brother-in-law torch brazed it for me. It took some messing around for him to get the braze to wet out since the cast was still pretty dirty even though I tried to clean it up. Cooled in ashes over night. Seems good, haven't installed it yet.


Brazed around the center heat riser area.

It appears to be marked EAA-9430-A which is = EAA-9426 A according to post #58 and the picture in post #55 here: Hard to find part - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) These are almost impossible to find now rather than just Hard to find like they were in the 2012 thread. Looks like on mine someone intentionally bent the end of the shaft for the flap in the heat riser. It was running fine and pretty much I only drive it in the summer. So, I'm not going down that rabbit hole.

Scanned it since it was off. The scan has some issues. Not terrible though for a cheap scanner and untrained and inexperienced operator.

 
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 12:47 PM
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if that fails then you can buy headers for the truck for about $200.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Motor Dysphoria
Following up, I did not use ez weld tig wire. I did try to tig braze with a regular Si Bronze wire. Didn't go well. I blew some small holes in it so I made myself stop. Brother-in-law torch brazed it for me. It took some messing around for him to get the braze to wet out since the cast was still pretty dirty even though I tried to clean it up. Cooled in ashes over night. Seems good, haven't installed it yet.


Brazed around the center heat riser area.

It appears to be marked EAA-9430-A which is = EAA-9426 A according to post #58 and the picture in post #55 here: Hard to find part - Page 4 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) These are almost impossible to find now rather than just Hard to find like they were in the 2012 thread. Looks like on mine someone intentionally bent the end of the shaft for the flap in the heat riser. It was running fine and pretty much I only drive it in the summer. So, I'm not going down that rabbit hole.

Scanned it since it was off. The scan has some issues. Not terrible though for a cheap scanner and untrained and inexperienced operator.
I have several of the 45 degree angle 54-64 style here but none of the straight drop 52-53 style. They are almost always cracked
 
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