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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Overheating 😵‍💫🙄

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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:30 AM
  #31  
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We tested the new thermostat and its works. No infrared thermometer.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:31 AM
  #32  
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It’s apparent I need an infrared thermometer. I’ll pick one up tomorrow…thank u
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:41 AM
  #33  
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Your pic tells me I was looking at the right thing. I’ve cleaned that and it didn’t help. I did order a new one and I’ll install it on Saturday. I’ll also get an infrared thermometer as suggested. I really appreciate all your suggestions. I’ve got my friend helping me who mirrors all of your suggestions so I think between all of u I’m in good hands
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:44 AM
  #34  
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When I drained the coolant it was clean. It was only when we put a hose in the radiator that we got crud, but it eventually flushed clean.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:48 AM
  #35  
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I change the oil every 1000 miles because it is an old truck. I don’t think I ran the engine cold for an extended period of time 🤞
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 12:22 PM
  #36  
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There might be two senders based on whether you have a guage or an idiot light. That one says switch so might be the idiot light one?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 12:27 PM
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When you are overheating it's very obvious with the hood up. You can feel the heat on your face. And if you can't lightly touch the top hose or thermo cap cause it's too hot to even lightly touch. The infrared thermometers are a handy tool too.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 12:30 PM
  #38  
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I was a dishwasher in a restaurant back in high school. The water temp in the washer was a scorching 180 degrees. So my fingers were calibrated at an early age!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 12:52 PM
  #39  
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Agree that switch might be for the light...but it should go into the water jacket directly in the manifold, like mine does on my 302.

If you can post pictures of your's that would help.

The other temp sensor on my 302EFI is in the tree in the front of the above the bypass hose.

Also, if you can post pictures, could you post a picture of the fuseable links at the starter solenoid, over in RYan's thread, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ease-help.html

It could help see what fuseable links a 85 460 came with/has. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 11:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity

Even after doing that, my engine block temp sensor with the single red wire with broken insulation has not been touched.

Here's the block temp sensor,

Max, I think I see some of the red insulation below on the valve cover. Perhaps rodents looking for red licorice?

I think I'd get some brush on wire insulation or maybe some shrink wrap on that. Permatex makes a product called liquid electrical tape #85120.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2023 | 08:09 AM
  #41  
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Thanks, I have coated that spot with some dielectric grease.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2023 | 08:52 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Larry115
Thank you! Do you recommend a specific aluminum radiator?
If anyone decides to upgrade to an Aluminum Rad with welded sides, be CAREFUL. There are a million stories(all makes and models) of poorly welded aluminum Rads. After an unreasonably short period of use, they may begin to leak. You can take it to a pro to weld the leaks shut, but it just raises a lot of red flags for the future. None of them are cheap, but definitely spend a little extra on a reputable manufacturer.
I second what was said before.... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Keep the original Rad until your sure it is bad.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2023 | 08:56 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2
When you are refilling the cooling system on a coolant change you're pouring in cold coolant. You'll have some air trapped in various locations. But fill it to the top, cap it and start the engine. As the engine warms the coolant in the block will heat up the thermostat will open and circulation begins. You'll know it happens when the top hose gets hot. I let the engine run a little longer and then shut it off. The coolant in the radiator was cold and it's now entering a warm block transferring heat to the cold coolant but still not blazing hot. Yet the thermostat opened burping it. Since the entire cooling system doesn't get up to temp right away the cool down time is pretty short too. If you burp it just once and have at least a gallon in the overflow bottle you'll be good for a short trip. Later when the engine cools again there might be a small amount of room in the radiator. I also mark the level in the overflow bottle with a sharpie so I can see if it is taking coolant into the system. I usually put a gallon in the overflow and mark that. If it goes down I can add to the overflow to make it up.

that's the rest of the story...

Can you diagnose why my Overflow tank is always overflowing? My truck pushes the coolant past the Rad cap into the overflow until it begins to overflow. I have to top off my Rad every few drives.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2023 | 09:04 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by R¥ans460
Can you diagnose why my Overflow tank is always overflowing? My truck pushes the coolant past the Rad cap into the overflow until it begins to overflow. I have to top off my Rad every few drives.
how old is your radiator cap? what brand? I would start there.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2023 | 09:19 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dustyroad
how old is your radiator cap? what brand? I would start there.
Yes, the cap is a key element. It allows flow to the overflow bottle when pressure increases beyond the cap rating. Also allows reverse flow when the radiator goes low on coolant. If your overflow is constantly "overflowing" the cap may be weak or you are not getting adequate cooling. Another possibility is a blown head gasket where piston pressure is getting into the cooling system.
 
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