Overheating 😵💫🙄
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 183
Likes: 19
From: Columbus Ohio
I would hook the recover tank up like Max has it
I need to get a picture of mine but it dose not have a cap or any way to clean or fill it.
I had to use a small funnel to fill it where the hose goes in at the top.
The full blck top on mine is also glued to the bottom so no way to pull it off for cleaning
Dave ----
I need to get a picture of mine but it dose not have a cap or any way to clean or fill it.
I had to use a small funnel to fill it where the hose goes in at the top.
The full blck top on mine is also glued to the bottom so no way to pull it off for cleaning
Dave ----
The black lid on ours doesn't come off either. That yellow cap in his pic is only 3/4".... maybe 1" diameter. It's a pretty small hole.
This summer I took it off the fender. I capped the hose port and then dumped about a pint of isopropyl alcohol in the tank. Shook it for a few minutes. Then rinsed with Dawn soap and the hose until I was satisfied. I could have used a cheap bottle brush, but I was satisfied.
If you take yours off the fender, you could hold it upside down and drill up slowly and widen your opening. Upside down should keep the debris out. And may as well clean it now that it's off the fender.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,124
From: Angier, NC
Here you can see how the over flow is on my 81 F100 and my parts truck was the same.
The first one I installed was so dry that after on the road a year just fell apart.
The hose to it comes from the radiator fill but I only have 1 nipple and it is above the cap, would be your upper nipple.
It is also on the other side of the truck and it runs across the top of the radiator. This is factory for a 300 six motor.
I think factory used rubber hose for the whole think but I used a short hose to a metal tube across the top of the radiator then hose from the metal tube to the over flow tank.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
Calling Larry115, calling Larry115. Your thread here has been what we call "hi-jacked". There is another poster with another truck with another problem now posting in this thread, so do not get mixed up and think someone is talking to you, they may be replying to him.
Go get that infrared thermometer.
Go get that infrared thermometer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,668
Likes: 1,160
From: Tolland, CT
I also believe "Larry" needs to answer the question, did the temp gauge on the dash raise rapidly to hot and then move back down quickly, or was the movement over time, while driving ?
My truck was quick enough, that I knew it wasn't heat related.
My truck was quick enough, that I knew it wasn't heat related.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 183
Likes: 19
From: Columbus Ohio
Calling Larry115, calling Larry115. Your thread here has been what we call "hi-jacked". There is another poster with another truck with another problem now posting in this thread, so do not get mixed up and think someone is talking to you, they may be replying to him.
Go get that infrared thermometer.
Go get that infrared thermometer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,248
Every overflow bottle I have ever had on all my vehicles had the tube from the radiator cap neck go in the top and then continue to the bottom of the reservoir. I had no idea that some of our trucks dump to the top and then can't recover coolant if the radiator goes low. Nor was I aware that some enter the bottom of the tank. Going in the bottom seems fool hardy because if you get a leak at the tube entry you lose your reserve coolant in the bottle. My overflow bottle on my 86 F250 with a 6.9l diesel is as I described with the tube coming in the top and extends all the way to the bottom. So it sucks my overflow bottle dry if the radiator goes low. In fact when I change my coolant I can leave the cap on and open the radiator drain and it will suck all the coolant out of the overflow bottle, then lift the cap for the rest of the draining. My apologies as I assumed all of our overflow bottles were similar to the 6.9l IDI and every other vehicle I have owned with the overflow/recovery tube extending to the bottom of the overflow reservoir.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,248
I go away for a few days and what do you all do? You scare the poor guy to death! Blown head gasket? Clogged radiator? Bad water pump? Thermostat? Failed gauge? How about some basic troubleshooting first, before entering FullPanicMode™?
Has the most basic question been answered yet? Is this an actual overheat, or simply an indication issue? Before trying anything else, get thee a paper grocery bag. Cut two eye holes. Drive to your nearest Harbor Freight. Put the paper bag over your head, so nobody sees you shopping there. Spend $25 and make yourself the proud owner of an infrared thermometer.
Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Point your spiffy new thermometer at the thermostat housing. If all is good, you should see about 180F. Make sure the gauge on the dash is pointing somewhere in the Normal range, typically around the O or R. Before being told the stock gauges are trash and must be replaced with an aftermarket unit (of unknown accuracy), simply be aware the stock gauges performs adequately and you just need to know where the needle normally points when the engine is warmed up. That's your normal reference point.
For the coolant loss past the cap, read this amusing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lant-leak.html
If still concerned about a bad head gasket, get yourself a combustion leak detector. I think HF sells one, and you already have the paper bag for shopping there. The tool looks like a turkey baster with some inner compartments. You fill the tester with a special fluid. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and then run the engine to normal operating temperature. Put the tool over the radiator neck and draw in a sample of air. If combustion byproducts are getting into the cooling system, the test fluid changes color.
You can also do a pressure test of the cooling system, as shown at the link above. You pump up the system with the engine off. If the gauge drops back down, you've got a leak somewhere that needs attention. If the pressure holds for at least 15 minutes, you're good there.
There are more steps we can do based on what you find, but don't listen to these cotton-headed ninny muggins.
They'll have you replacing every last component under the hood and dash just to be sure. I'm willing to bet we can narrow things down just a tad to make it easier on your wallet.
Has the most basic question been answered yet? Is this an actual overheat, or simply an indication issue? Before trying anything else, get thee a paper grocery bag. Cut two eye holes. Drive to your nearest Harbor Freight. Put the paper bag over your head, so nobody sees you shopping there. Spend $25 and make yourself the proud owner of an infrared thermometer.
Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Point your spiffy new thermometer at the thermostat housing. If all is good, you should see about 180F. Make sure the gauge on the dash is pointing somewhere in the Normal range, typically around the O or R. Before being told the stock gauges are trash and must be replaced with an aftermarket unit (of unknown accuracy), simply be aware the stock gauges performs adequately and you just need to know where the needle normally points when the engine is warmed up. That's your normal reference point.
For the coolant loss past the cap, read this amusing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lant-leak.html
If still concerned about a bad head gasket, get yourself a combustion leak detector. I think HF sells one, and you already have the paper bag for shopping there. The tool looks like a turkey baster with some inner compartments. You fill the tester with a special fluid. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and then run the engine to normal operating temperature. Put the tool over the radiator neck and draw in a sample of air. If combustion byproducts are getting into the cooling system, the test fluid changes color.
You can also do a pressure test of the cooling system, as shown at the link above. You pump up the system with the engine off. If the gauge drops back down, you've got a leak somewhere that needs attention. If the pressure holds for at least 15 minutes, you're good there.
There are more steps we can do based on what you find, but don't listen to these cotton-headed ninny muggins.
They'll have you replacing every last component under the hood and dash just to be sure. I'm willing to bet we can narrow things down just a tad to make it easier on your wallet.
A brand new chinese all aluminum radiator, (Did look nice) but no information on your neck measurements ( no not the one you took at the tux fitting) like length and parralelism. And no report on if the new aluminum rad solved the overflow issue at the cap.We'd love to know. But try to keep it short and avoid any reports of disagreeable political arguments that may have occurred at this year's Thanksgiving gatherings.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,178
Likes: 1,174
Great, send us over to read another post, and then after taking us on a long journey of testing and measuring, hymming and hawing about parallelism and or radiator neck lengths then Boom!! A brand new chinese all aluminum radiator, (Did look nice) but no information on your neck measurements ( no not the one you took at the tux fitting) like length and parralelism. And no report on if the new aluminum rad solved the overflow issue at the cap.
A brand new chinese all aluminum radiator, (Did look nice) but no information on your neck measurements ( no not the one you took at the tux fitting) like length and parralelism. And no report on if the new aluminum rad solved the overflow issue at the cap.Read the personal motto in my signature. I installed the new radiator and successfully tested the seal between the neck and cap, with the same method that showed the old radiator leaking. I was done. No need to measure anything after that.
What! I've always been one to eschew obfuscation!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,248
We don't need no steenkin' measurements!
Read the personal motto in my signature. I installed the new radiator and successfully tested the seal between the neck and cap, with the same method that showed the old radiator leaking. I was done. No need to measure anything after that.
What! I've always been one to eschew obfuscation!
Read the personal motto in my signature. I installed the new radiator and successfully tested the seal between the neck and cap, with the same method that showed the old radiator leaking. I was done. No need to measure anything after that.
What! I've always been one to eschew obfuscation!
I've sworn off desk top computers etc for as long as possible, having had to interface with them for far too long. Today I enjoy gazing at the horizon...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,668
Likes: 1,160
From: Tolland, CT
With a direct reading gauge, all you need to do is find a slot in the fuse block, that has power when key is On.
I would only do a direct reading temp gauge. Don't waste time and effort on an electronic temp gauge.
I would only do a direct reading temp gauge. Don't waste time and effort on an electronic temp gauge.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
No need to wire it if you do not want to. I say that because I like the temp gauges that they sell in the store that are mechanical. The "wire" is actually a tube with fluid in it. It will read all the time, even with the key off, and it takes no power to run it. The only power it needs is for the little light in it that lights up the gauge at night.
In fact, if you want to really know what is going on, i would get a triple gauge set. Get one with the mechanical oil pressure, mechanical temp, and a voltmeter. You do not have to hook everything up if you want to hook it up partially.
The only problem with the mechanical temp gauge, the probe on the end is rather large, and you cannot take the tube apart or the probe that has the fluid in it, or you will ruin the gauge. You also need to be careful and not kink the tube. I can usually find or make a hole large enough around the steering column rubber piece to push the temp probe through.
In fact, if you want to really know what is going on, i would get a triple gauge set. Get one with the mechanical oil pressure, mechanical temp, and a voltmeter. You do not have to hook everything up if you want to hook it up partially.
The only problem with the mechanical temp gauge, the probe on the end is rather large, and you cannot take the tube apart or the probe that has the fluid in it, or you will ruin the gauge. You also need to be careful and not kink the tube. I can usually find or make a hole large enough around the steering column rubber piece to push the temp probe through.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,668
Likes: 1,160
From: Tolland, CT
There will be a hole in the firewall somewhere, that probe will fit through. You can find the NPT fittings at the hardware store to thread the probe into your engine. It's been done for many decades.