Short story....
1985/6 F350
460ci 7.5L

I purchased and installed a "Straight Up" Timing set.
First aligned the original timing gears together at TDC, confirmed the Dist rotor was pointing at #1. Slipped the gears off. Rotated the crank slightly until they lined up straight.


Then started putting everything back together.
SIDE NOTE.... Since starting the engine, I now have a knock/tap. Fml

All new gaskets. Cleaned the timing cover well. New water pump (the heater pump tube was a SOB.) New 2G ALT.

Here is where it starts ...
The new OEM replacement got rid of the B+/Stator plug and now just have wires protruding from the back of the ALT.

​​​​Ignore the black tape. It's just loom. Everything is crimped and heat shrunk. Still not my favorite but I needed to get the job done.
​​​I unwrapped the loom and traced the wire paths before cutting the old plug off. One ALT-B+ goes to the B+ terminal of the starter solenoid(shared with the Battery's B+ cable​​​​). The other ALT-B+ goes into the harness connector(continuity to the ALT confirmed at the connector). The STATOR wire is unused (my Choke is powered from a keyed switch 12V).

The original Regulator connector was a 3-wire connector, but only has two wires, Yellow-Green-none. The new connector has Yellow-White-Green. I wired it Y-Y, G-W, and didn't use the new 3rd wire. The regulator is the same pin out, " A S I " and my truck operated without any feed from the " I ". The wire from "A" splices up the loom to the wire from ALT B+ before the starter solenoid. Wire "S" goes into the loom harness connector (Continuity also confirmed).



I start the truck, it fires right up with a noticeable knock/tick. I had to tweak the DIST to keep it from stalling. Then I checked voltage across the battery, 12.6V. Then disconnected the B- wire from the battery to test for charging voltage and the engine died. She was running off the battery, not the ALT.
I double checked my wiring and continuity checks. It's all connected.

Any ideas? Is the ALT or REGULATOR bad? Is my wiring bad? I can try to put the old one back in, but I cut the wires pretty short and they were in rough shape to begin with.

​​​​​​

 

Maybe I'm dumb.... I removed the Battery Negative cable from the battery and it died..... Of course if that's a shared Neutral/ground.
Should I have probably tested charging voltage at the Battery Positive cable? Let me know.

 

First, removing the battery with the engine running is not the best practice and does not test the alternator condition..

You need the assistance of some one knowledgeable in electrics/test procedures. Before you do too much damage..

 

Notice where the green and yellow wires are on my 86' 302EFI. I see you connected the LG/R with the white, so it should work for the regulator, so it should work...?
I'm not an expert, but, I don't see the fuseable links in your picture, did your truck come with them ?




I saved this picture for my 302, but it might be the same for you...?



Fuseable links,

 

Fuseable links - are you talking about the multi-wire male-female connectors, or the plastic cylinders where some wires are spliced together? (Orange in the top-right of your pic)

 

Yes, my 86 EFI has three fuseable links, Those in the right, two are below that orange one. They are called out in the schematic. But your truck, not being EFI, may in fact not have them.

Hopefully one of the Dave's or Karl will chime in soon.

 

Not sure if this will help, but you may be able to find the full schematic there. I just stumbled on to that page.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/wiring-diagrams.html

 

My truck has a few, but are they not just splices? The connections on many are poor and loose.
.....I may have cut them out of the harness..... Am I up *****s Creek without a paddle?

 

Just wait until one of those guys checks in. They will know where to tell you to head.

I looked through that link to the schematics, it's pretty involved. Not sure its much help. But the diagram I posted above came from that site. I'm trying to find that page.

 

I love Gary's Garagemahal
I have cross checked with that page and schematics.

Fuseable links J is still intact in my truck.
Link J is where ALT B+ and REG "A" connect together. Also have confirmed continuity from the solenoid to the ALT and REG. Link J is good.

 

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/cha...e-engines.html


That may be the pages we need.

You may be confusing the splices with fuseable links, my links each have a different voltage.



This is a splice,

 

Thanks for clarifying. I DO NOT have any fuseable links. Never seen one before.

 

I understand that, I think I read it as maybe just the 302EFI had them...

Again, the experts will know.

 

Does your truck have an EEC box on the fender, I think they are located ? In post 11 link, on page 19 I see with EEC, there are fuseable links. In figure 1

Sorry I can't be more help, I do better when I'm hands on.

 

The lightgreen/red stripe wire goes on the "I" terminal. I believe I read in one of the previous posts you have it on the white? Which is the "S"terminal? That is not correct for this alternator.