Where do u recommend I buy a thermostat etc from?

 

I'm not recommending an aluminum radiator, especially if your current one is tight and is cooling adequately. On where to get a T-stat probably the most convenient supplier. I went with Motorcraft brand last year, and 6 months later it failed open. Replaced with another Motorcraft. Motorcraft has a two year warranty IIRC. Check price and warranty. I was refunded for the failed T-stat. Summit Racing has them but unless you are buying a lot of stuff the shipping cost may come into play.

 

When you are refilling the cooling system on a coolant change you're pouring in cold coolant. You'll have some air trapped in various locations. But fill it to the top, cap it and start the engine. As the engine warms the coolant in the block will heat up the thermostat will open and circulation begins. You'll know it happens when the top hose gets hot. I let the engine run a little longer and then shut it off. The coolant in the radiator was cold and it's now entering a warm block transferring heat to the cold coolant but still not blazing hot. Yet the thermostat opened burping it. Since the entire cooling system doesn't get up to temp right away the cool down time is pretty short too. If you burp it just once and have at least a gallon in the overflow bottle you'll be good for a short trip. Later when the engine cools again there might be a small amount of room in the radiator. I also mark the level in the overflow bottle with a sharpie so I can see if it is taking coolant into the system. I usually put a gallon in the overflow and mark that. If it goes down I can add to the overflow to make it up.

that's the rest of the story...

 

Okay…so I installed the new thermostat after needing to remove the distributor. Managed to get everything back running smoothly. But, temp rose up quickly just below H. I let the truck run because I could touch the engine because it was warm but not hot. The passenger side of the radiator was warm and the drivers side was cool including the return hose. Antifreeze seemed to be moving plus I could take the radiator cap off without it spraying everywhere.

I drained the antifreeze and flushed just the radiator. I did get some brown sludge out initially and then it ran clear. There were particles of something inside the radiator. I almost suspect stop leak that broke loose. One of my prior fixes was to replace all heater parts and the heater core was a total mess. So…at this point I don’t know if the radiator is now good or bad. I also don’t know if the water pump is good or bad…it’s not leaking. Also, I suspect the heat sensor could be bad.

Last night I placed an order at Oreilly’s to replace all the above except for the radiator. I’m also replacing the fan clutch since I’m basically installing a brand new cooling system. They have a radiator for my truck in stock. I was kinda wanting an all aluminum radiator. If I go that route does anyone have a suggestion of what aluminum radiator will just drop into my truck without modifications. I’m confused on if 2 row, 3 row or 4 row radiators add thickness therefore the stock fan system won’t work. I’d appreciate all comments on my plan of attack and recommendations on a radiator…Oreillys in-stock or all aluminum. If all aluminum works…which one?
thank u
Larry

 

That gauge is costing you a lot of time and money. But if you want a aluminum radiator anyway, I guess there is no harm in it. Except the gauge may possibly keep going to the H.

 

How much room between radiator and fan now that a 4 row core will not fit?
Not all the width goes to the fan as it can sometimes go forward too.
You did not say what you use the truck for and if it has AC or not?
Also how many cores dose yours have now?
What is the in stock replacement, brass / copper or Alum and how many cores?

Me I like to have as much radiator as I can for the money.
So if you have the money for a 4 core that is the way I would go.
You have AC you need more cooling as the factory goes bigger on radiators for AC.
Pulling a heavy load you need more cooling in my book.

Oh you may want to get something to measure the water temp in the radiator to see if it is that hot to the "H" of a bad gauge / sender.
Dave ----

 

U believe it’s simply the guage? What about the radiator issue yesterday? Will a new heat sensor possibly fix the guage reading?

 

No A/C. I haven’t measure anything yet but I will this morning. I tow a trailer a few times a year with several tons of hay. Otherwise I just use the truck for hunting and running to town which is 18 miles away. I let the truck idle yesterday for probably 30 minutes and I popped off the radiator cap and the antifreeze was Luke warm. I don’t know how many cores my current radiator has…it appears stock.
thanks
Larry

 

Did you test the thermostat before installing it? 30 minutes of idle should have the coolant up to operating temperature, 195 degrees, unless the thermostat failed open and didn't let heat build up. Are you using an infrared thermometer? Pointed at the thermostat cap? An open thermostat could leave water in the radiator luke warm after 30 minutes of idle. Even after operating on the highway. And if your guage is reading hot while the radiator is luke warm it's a good bet that something in your monitoring system is bad. Could be the sending unit, the guage or the wiring and connections.

 

I can't have my cap off my radiator once the thermostat is open and the water pump can circulate water as coolant wants to jump out the cap. You can remove your cap, the coolant is luke warm. Perhaps your water pump is not moving water? In that case the engine could be getting hot and coolant isn't circulating. Get your infrared thermometer and see what temps you are seeing on the engine and thermostat cap.

 

You said the gauge rose "quickly" to Hot. How quickly ? Years ago, my temp gauge would go to Hot in a couple seconds, then a while later drop back down, it was obvious to me the engine couldn't get that hot that fast. I ended up replacing the corroded connector and sensor. The seemed to help some, then I replaced the corroded terminals on the coil. After making sure there was no more corrosion, the gauge began to work like it should.

I have no idea why the temp gauge began to work correctly, every time, after fixing the corrosion. Make sure all the connections have no corrosion.

Even after doing that, my engine block temp sensor with the single red wire with broken insulation has not been touched.

Here's the block temp sensor,


ECU temp sensor with new sensor and connector.

 

You mentioned that you got a lot of crud out of your cooling system when draining and flushing. That indicates a case of coolant abuse. If your pH got too low it can do damage to your cooling system including your sending unit. They do have test strips for pH and coolant level. I like a hydrometer best for coolant level.

 

Strongly agree with this^
I'm a strong advocate for aftermarket gauges in older vehicles. water Temp, oil psi, trans temp (for autos), and voltage. the minimums for me.
idiot lights and the bar gauges just don't give enough information.

 

If you find you've actually been running cold, I'm not convinced you overheated, it can also be damaging to your engine. A cold engine will have more blow-by contaminating your oil. If that's the case consider an oil change if you put some hours on it cold.

 

Is this a sending unit?