Engine Removal Question
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,453
Likes: 2,936
From: Reed Point, MT
To prime the oil system, use the 1/8" that is farthest one back (right in the picture) or the brass one on the oil cooler header above the filter. The middle one is coolant, the left one is a straight shot back into the oil pan.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 222
Likes: 30
I wasn't planning to rebuild this motor, ever. It had some blow by and used some oil at 200k. It had plenty of power and started easily. I lost a turbo bearing going up Vail pass towing my camper two summers ago. My exhaust housing was too big and the egts were too high for too long or it was a bad turbo. It ran for another 5k miles after replacing the turbo. I didn't take apart the short block but the engine pan had a bearing chunk and the lpop had bad metal scoring.
It was either rebuild the motor or sell the truck for cheap. I have a lot of work in the WVO system, suspension, tires, steering, bushings, bearings, brakes, ect ect... Tough choice but in the end I couldn't let it go to someone for a discount.
I bought the harbor freight 2 ton engine stand new for $200 and the harbor freight 2 ton hoist used on CL for $150. They were both strong enough and I felt safe. I should be able to get $250- $300 when I sell them. Its like renting them for $100. There are lots of engine hoists and stands in the used market at least in Denver. They are single use for lots of people.
It was either rebuild the motor or sell the truck for cheap. I have a lot of work in the WVO system, suspension, tires, steering, bushings, bearings, brakes, ect ect... Tough choice but in the end I couldn't let it go to someone for a discount.
I bought the harbor freight 2 ton engine stand new for $200 and the harbor freight 2 ton hoist used on CL for $150. They were both strong enough and I felt safe. I should be able to get $250- $300 when I sell them. Its like renting them for $100. There are lots of engine hoists and stands in the used market at least in Denver. They are single use for lots of people.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
I wasn't planning to rebuild this motor, ever. It had some blow by and used some oil at 200k. It had plenty of power and started easily. I lost a turbo bearing going up Vail pass towing my camper two summers ago. My exhaust housing was too big and the egts were too high for too long or it was a bad turbo. It ran for another 5k miles after replacing the turbo. I didn't take apart the short block but the engine pan had a bearing chunk and the lpop had bad metal scoring.
It was either rebuild the motor or sell the truck for cheap. I have a lot of work in the WVO system, suspension, tires, steering, bushings, bearings, brakes, ect ect... Tough choice but in the end I couldn't let it go to someone for a discount.
I bought the harbor freight 2 ton engine stand new for $200 and the harbor freight 2 ton hoist used on CL for $150. They were both strong enough and I felt safe. I should be able to get $250- $300 when I sell them. Its like renting them for $100. There are lots of engine hoists and stands in the used market at least in Denver. They are single use for lots of people.
It was either rebuild the motor or sell the truck for cheap. I have a lot of work in the WVO system, suspension, tires, steering, bushings, bearings, brakes, ect ect... Tough choice but in the end I couldn't let it go to someone for a discount.
I bought the harbor freight 2 ton engine stand new for $200 and the harbor freight 2 ton hoist used on CL for $150. They were both strong enough and I felt safe. I should be able to get $250- $300 when I sell them. Its like renting them for $100. There are lots of engine hoists and stands in the used market at least in Denver. They are single use for lots of people.
Remember, our motor is 900something pounds dry.
They might have beefed them up now.
But. yeah. Not in my budget at the moment.
IF I pull it, i'ma wanna re-ring it. and.. i just dont have the money.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 222
Likes: 30
Correction. I used the HF 1 Ton Engine Stand so 2k pound rating. It spun the long block easily and it felt safe. If anyone is looking at one for a 7.3, I would recommend it.
Everything is buttoned up and the fluids are topped off. Turned the motor with the starter this afternoon. I did 12 second bursts with a long rest. On the fourth and fifth try it built 20# of oil pressure. Seems like the low pressure pump is working.
I checked the HPOP reservoir after the 5th try. It was full. I plugged the CPS in and tried to start it. Then my batteries died. They are Walmart batteries with a 6/17 date. It is a miracle they work at all.
So far it seems good. It took the correct amount of coolant and oil. No weird noises. Stay tuned.
Everything is buttoned up and the fluids are topped off. Turned the motor with the starter this afternoon. I did 12 second bursts with a long rest. On the fourth and fifth try it built 20# of oil pressure. Seems like the low pressure pump is working.
I checked the HPOP reservoir after the 5th try. It was full. I plugged the CPS in and tried to start it. Then my batteries died. They are Walmart batteries with a 6/17 date. It is a miracle they work at all.
So far it seems good. It took the correct amount of coolant and oil. No weird noises. Stay tuned.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 222
Likes: 30
The motor started after two 20 second cranking cycles. No funny noises or smoke. I only ran it for a couple of minutes. I will post up a video after I get the break in oil changed, the intake assembled, and the front end on.
Thanks for the help getting this back together.
Thanks for the help getting this back together.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 222
Likes: 30
Ok, I have 100 miles on the motor. I ran it with out load between 1500 and 2200 rpm for 15 minutes. The I did some 1500 to 2200 pulls in low gears and quite a few 1500 to 2200 pulls in first gear. I let it coast to a stop and downshifted instead of using the brakes.
It runs really good. There is no shaking at idle, it starts up nice, and is real smooth throttling up. It had a bit of blue smoke on startup this morning and it has vapors/ blowby. I have read it takes 10k miles to seat the rings on these.
Is it normal to have this amount of steam coming from the oil fill?
Should I wait till 500-1000 miles to change the oil? That seems like a long time.
It runs really good. There is no shaking at idle, it starts up nice, and is real smooth throttling up. It had a bit of blue smoke on startup this morning and it has vapors/ blowby. I have read it takes 10k miles to seat the rings on these.
Is it normal to have this amount of steam coming from the oil fill?
Should I wait till 500-1000 miles to change the oil? That seems like a long time.