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Got the front cover, the oil pan, the rear cover, and main seal installed.
I was happy with everything except the main seal. I used the Mahle seal that came in the seal kit. It has a paper gasket. I put a thin layer of ford RTV on each side of the gasket. When I torqued the main seal bolts to 18# the gasket pushed out around the bolts. The paper gasket is pushed out 1/8" around the metal ring. I am thinking about buying a Ford seal and redoing it.
Yes the FoMoCo has the same type gasket, now that I think about it Mahle is the supplier for FoMoCo iirc. I've used a thin layer of sealant as well, no leaks.
Here is the paper gasket coming out past the ring and a picture of the how the gasket ripped around the bolt. I feel like I could run it, but its a lot of work to replace it if it leaks.
I am back to rebuilding the motor. I had to play landlord and fix a gas leak or four. It's not easy to find an honest plumber in Denver right now. This next round will include installing the injectors, glow plugs, exhaust manifolds, oil cooler, wiring harness, and some work in the engine compartment. Everything that needs to be done before the engine gets installed.
I would like to have a plan to prime the engine before the low pressure oil pump gets installed. Some people have used 15w 40 in the LPOP and cranked it. The manual says lube with 15w 40 oil. Some people use Vaseline before cranking.
Any tips on priming the LPOP and HPOP before I install the LPOP?
If you are not against buying tools, you could grab a pressure primer. Basically a tank you fill w oil and air, prime through the mechanical port by oil cooler housing.
Work great for Ford Mod motor, Modern Hemi, Gen III GM, etc
I just watched a video where a guy uses an AC bottle hooked up to air and runs it into the 1/8 port by the oil filter housing. He put 2 qts into the motor like that. The bottle is $25 and can be here in two days with amazon. I am going to lube the LPOP with motor oil and use the pressure tank.
I will fill the HPOP reservoir before firing. Should I fill the oil rails on the head or will the pressurized tank fill them?
I just watched a video where a guy uses an AC bottle hooked up to air and runs it into the 1/8 port by the oil filter housing. He put 2 qts into the motor like that. The bottle is $25 and can be here in two days with amazon. I am going to lube the LPOP with motor oil and use the pressure tank.
I will fill the HPOP reservoir before firing. Should I fill the oil rails on the head or will the pressurized tank fill them?
Here are some pictures.
im digging the colors!! I want to pull mine someday and rebuild it.
Thanks, the motor is a Chevy engine blue that I used for my 240z block. The black is a high gloss engine paint. Next time I would use a gloss black. The high gloss is a little too shiny.
I put the valve covers in the oven @ 175 for an hour. I had never baked parts before. I think it helped the finish come out more smooth.
It was a lot of work masking the heads, block, and bolt holes, but it was worth it. I don't think it looks good when the motor is assembled then sprayed all one color.
If you go to change the O rings in the fuel banjo bolt there are two different sizes. The obs ones are thinner than the superduty ones.
I posted this picture yesterday but forgot to ad the text. I was wondering why no one responded. LOL.
The motor is going in today. I had a chance to clean the AC condenser, install an o ring dipstick tube, fix some wire sheathing, and detail the engine compartment. I have two questions before I start it up.
I bought an ac bottle to prime the oil system. It was $30, not too bad. I am planning to use the middle hole in the picture. Is that correct?
I want run the block heater before I prime the oil and start the truck. When I fill the radiator, will the block heater be filled or does the water pump need to run? I don't want to burn out the element if the coolant doesn't fill up the oil filter housing.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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