Hello all. I'm a new member, my first post, but I have been lurking in the shadows and gleaning ideas for some time. This time though, no one has posted anything like the issue I am having.
My '97 7.3 failed to start several months ago. Replaced the cps, no change, checked the ipc and found oil in the connector. I replaced the ipc and its pigtail, and while it was out I cranked the engine and found it had no HP oil flow. I replaced the ipr, then on final inspection before reassembly I noticed bare copper wire on the pigtail. If you have ever done this on an E series you know you can only see the ipr with one eye at a time and only touch it with part of one hand. I spent three days on this simple repair! I replaced the pigtail, buttoned it all up and it started and ran well. The problem is that since then when the key is turned on the Service engine light stays on for about 55 seconds every time. The wts lights functions normally. It would start at any time, but if started while the SES light was on the engine had a little extra clatter sound. When the light goes out, the engine stumbles slightly, the rpms drop slightly, and the clatter stops. The cranking time to start got a little longer with time. This week it started "normally" first thing, cranked a little longer after my first stop, then would not attempt to fire afterwards. I rode home in the wrecker, changed the cps again, but nothing changed. The next morning it started and ran normally after several seconds of cranking.I fear it may strand me again when it gets to full temp.
My code reader is probably not the best (INNOVA 5610), but it see to work on most things. It says there are no codes stored for the vehicle.
I tend to suspect a controller of some kind, based on the consistent 55 second light on time, and I wonder if the clatter could be the glow plugs staying on and causing some pre-ignition. Any thoughts?

 

you have a cade that needs to be read by a scanner
most parts stores scanners dont work on these old things either and your may not too

i suggest getting one before tossing 1000s at it
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...2-scanner.html

 

My truck does the same thing, it has for a little over a year now. I suspect it’s the non motorcraft icp (not done by me) that’s in it but can’t confirm. My check engine light goes out before my glow plugs shut off so I doubt that’s it. However it has never lead to a no start condition for me, just clatters a little extra for close to a minute then idle dips as light shuts out. It’s something I’ll be getting around to soon hopefully.

 

I have been looking at the Vgate ELM327 V2.1 Bluetooth OBD2 Car Diagnostic scanner/readers, but I am a bit confused. Many brands available, but not much info. The 2 or 3 that provide details basically say "not for diesel" . I don't want to get another tool that I can't use, and I need to get one ASAP so I can get my van dependable again (I am out of business without it). I hope to find a local source today where I can find the details.
Thanks for the suggestions, and I will let you know what happens.

 

I started this thread several months ago, and although I did not get any ideas from anyone, the van started and has run just as it had been for the last 6+ months. I had several different scanners from cheap to very expensive, check for codes, and the only thing that came up was IPC reading below normal. It did not fail until 2 weeks ago, when it again started first thing that morning, and again two or three more times through the morning. When I shut it down about noon, it wouldn't even attempt to fire. The next morning I used booster cables from my F-250 and it started normally. I drove it 5 miles home, shut it down, and it hasn't run since.
This is a 1998 E-350 that I special ordered, which has a (OEM installed) 1997 7.3 PSD. Apparently, the 1998 models were all stepchildren built with leftover parts while the SD engines were being readied for the 1999s. It is factory stock, no mods, 215,XXX. on the clock. The only work ever done on the engine that I didn't either do myself of help with was a warranty repair of the cold start system at 3 years in. I point this out because when I checked the PCM I found that it is tagged as re-manufactured. I have to assume that the dealer service saved some money there.

At this point I have checked the CPS, IPR, ICP, fuel pressure, fuel flow, fuel filter, HPOP oil level, etc. The oil and filter were replaced around 1000 miles ago, dipstick shows full and clean and oil pressure is normal. I am using a V- Gate OBD bluetooth scanner with the Torque APP. It is cranking at around 200 RPM, and when cranking it shows around 390-400 IPC pressure and 14-15% IPR if I let the SES light go out. If I try with the SES still on, IPS shows 2480 psi and IPR at around 60%. When I unplug the ICP the SES light does not go out and I get no white smoke from the tailpipe. With the ICP connected I get smoke some times and not others.

With things seeming to be random and possibly electronic related, I decided to take a chance and replace the PCM, but it didn't help. Can the IDM cause the SE light to display? Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? I hear that it needs 500 psi on the IPC to fire, but mine (according to my scanner) has been starting with pressures between 400 and 500 when hot as long as I have been checking it. any thoughts?

 

Thinking either IPR is sticking, oring failed or an injector oring failed.

White smoke means fuel most of the time.

You need 500 PSI to let the injector break free of compression pressures and atomize fuel.

HPOP full of oil?

 

Could be injector O rings blowing oil out into the crank case not allowing the HPOP to pressurize. And being a van it's going to be a pain in the *** to diagnose a leaky injector O ring

 

The HPOP was full, I drained it, replaced the IPR, and refilled it. No change, all numbers exactly the same. The IPR I installed was the original that I replaced a while back, then discovered that the pigtail insulation was broken and the wires shorted together. I can't be positive that it is good, but the symptoms were the same with both valves.
What O ring other than the injector rings are you thinking of?

 

Almost everything on a van is a pain!

 

So, it is a week later, and I have done little to the van other than walk away and leave the trickle charger on it. I did try to start it two days ago, and it did actually start and run. I finished reassembly to the point of letting it run for a while and tried again. IPC reading started at 8 PSI, slowly climbed through double digits and then more quickly up to the 300s. Cranking speed picked up, PSI went on up past 400, then 500, RPM reached about 390, and it started. After a brief warm up, I increased the RPM to about 3000, and the IPC reading was above 2450, IPR at 37.5%. At that point the shop was filled with a cloud of smoke thick enough to dim the fluorescent lights.

My guess is that the HPOP is OK, as well as the IPR and IPC sensor are doing their jobs. It has been in the 60's in the shop, and as the engine warms up the IPR numbers go down into the upper 400's. The failed O-ring idea seems likely to me now. What do you think? Also, any ideas of a reputable shop in the Nashville, TN area that will work on it? No one I have spoken to is interested. Can the body of these beasts be removed like the cab of a pickup? So many questions!