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I have a 2003 1/2 F-250, 7.3. All of a sudden, the other morning it took longer than normal to crank. It had a slight roughness to it at idle. I eased down the drive (500'), turned onto road, traveled approx. 1/10 mile, accelerated hard, it took off smooth and then all of a sudden acted like I had cut the key off. I never lost engine, but when trying to accelerate, it took a few seconds to respond, missing and then it revved but acted like tranny slipping. It then started running smoothly after idling for a few hundred feet. It never gave any trouble after that. I came home, changed fuel filter, cranked great, took for test drive and it was fixed, I THOUGHT!!! Every time since, after sitting over night, it does the same thing at about the same distance, but then smooths out and starts and runs fine the rest of the day. The next day the same thing. No codes showing. Engine light did come on for a couple of minutes the first time but went off and has not come back on since. I put some Lucas injector cleaner, filled to full, but still happening. Any help would be much appreciated. Thought it may be CPS acting up but unsure. BTW-- 344,000 miles
Last edited by Stanley Webster; Sep 9, 2023 at 04:25 PM.
Check for codes with FORScan/FORScan Lite. Since you had a check engine light, there should be a code. How-to thread below. Cheap and effective scanning tool for our trucks.
CPS or related wiring is suspect given your symptom of acting like you had cut the key off. Good to get a second CPS for a spare anyway. Recommend motorcraft only for these from a reputable seller.
Any recent roadwork or powerline work there? That would make me think CPS. My Corvette would always die at a certain intersection in El Paso on my daily commute at some Fort Bliss marked buildings. As long as I was doing 35 mph I could coast thru that dead spot and the engine would refire, but if I ever had to stop for the light I'd have to wait 50-75ft away or put it in neutral and push it thru like I did the first 2 times. Never did figure that one out.
Got one already in glove box, I think that is the next option to change it. Usually in my experience the CPS causes failure after it heats up , then once it cools down will re- crank. This is the direct opposite of that and only for a short duration. Plus the engine never dies, only clattering, rough running like cylinder dropping out.
Given the amount of miles, what I would do is disconnect every connection to every component on the engine and look for any signs of degredation. Replace as necessary. Wouldn't hurt to change all sensors, as well.