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If a LEO pulls you over for an obstructed plate, tell him it's a factory stock bumper, a factory stock license plate holder, located in the correct stock place.
Being retired 30 year LEO Sgt. that advice depends on state law and in some states it doesn't matter what stock was. Perfect example are seat belts and other equipment, some require you retrofit others do not. Giving blanket advice like that is never good without knowing the persons laws for their location.
To the OP, glad you got your truck closer to where you want it.Good job.
I would only get an original reproduction. They collapse nicely.
Classic Industries, Dennis Carpenter, CJ Pony parts;they all sell them.
Regards, Mark
good advice on the antenna. I'll peruse them and see which one is talking to me...whme.I have now looks like it was half-***'d and it just needs some refinement...my only hesitation on the telescoping versions is that they're very easy to bend and kink and with all the delicts around where I live, I feel it'd be an unfortunate occurrence...but, easy to replace I suppose. Thanks for the advice!
Being retired 30 year LEO Sgt. that advice depends on state law and in some states it doesn't matter what stock was. Perfect example are seat belts and other equipment, some require you retrofit others do not. Giving blanket advice like that is never good without knowing the persons laws for their location.
To the OP, glad you got your truck closer to where you want it.Good job.
My state is loose, thankfully, so having it where it's at shouldn't be too much of an issue....famous last words, right? Thank you for the kind regards...its been a heartfelt ownership!
Well, I was working Saturday and my wife wanted to drive the old girl in front of some hay bales for some photos with our kiddos and upon coming back home, she casually stated the truck doesn't work...it's been nothing but reliable and amazing under my guard...ha! As I'm trying not to point fingers at why it all of a sudden doesn't work, I tested the battery and it's at full charge of 12.5v all day long while turned off...even putting a charger in it nets a 2 min until full signal and no change in voltage...the battery is from 2017, but has been under a roof and not in extreme heat...regardless I started following wires to the bussman fuse panel my uncle wired in...everything looks good and is in good condition, connections wise...once I take out the main fuse (10A) from the battery to the fuse panel and put it back in, I can hear the fuel pump turn on and all seems to work as it has alwats until I hit the push button start and it immediately turns off. I rinse and repeat the process and it happens again...where does one find a starter solenoid I might he able to swap in? Does it matter which one I choose? The starter in this 223cui is a near number 10 can-sized starter...is this "normal?" Nothing looks melted, unconnected, etc...
It kind of sounds like a dead short. Try tapping(hitting) the starter with a hammer and see if that frees it up. You can also jump the starter solenoid before tapping the starter to verify the starter is currently locked up.
Do you have a load tester to make sure the battery still works under a load?
7 years is a long time for a lead acid battery.
I agree on the battery's age...when it sits, I can turn the key and hear the fuel pump and turn the headlights on...the battery is putting out full load from my initial tests, though, I do not have a load tester I dont think...when I hit the push start button, it shuts everything off immediately like i flipped a switch and I must wait at least an hour before it lets me see power through the dash, headlights, and fuel pump when I turn the key into position...I might swap some fuses and see if I can bypass the start swith and see if there are any different results. Thank you for the suggestions!!
You can take the battery out to a store that has a load tester. They can test it for you, for free.
Absolutely true! I asked a colleague to borrow theirs and I will test tonight... I'm 90% sure it's battery related...at least, my fingers are crossed for this solution! Thank you everyone for your great help!!
See if you can turn the engine a little just to make sure the starter drive is not hitting .
I'll throw a wrench on the crank and see if I can move it...I ran a load test on two different meters and it passed...still boasting 711 CCA, though a charge is needed it suggests...battery states 800 CCA so maybe moving the engine a but will free something up...
After looking at everything over and making sure everything was tight and right, I ran a load tester with two different meters, an analog and a digital version...both said the battery was good to go...so I was dumbfounded. I kept looking at the battery and realized that my wife, while driving the truck into the hay fields for some photos, must've drove hard and fast and made some bouncing commotion...the battery tie down is missing I realized and though the ground connection was "tight," I put a wrench on it and tightened it even more...I tried cranking it over and I saw an arch on the positive side...that puzzled me, so I loosened it up sunk it down on the terminal really well, and cranked those buggers tight again...she fired right up, no arching, and running like the day I got it...man, I slapped my forehead for not doing this in the first place...now I need to go look for the battery tie down in the fields before it gets too high and/or fashion another tie down. In the process of folding back the rubber flooring, I tore it near the battery box...so I might need to update that piece for one not tore up...all in all, I'm grateful for everyone's help amd I'm also grateful it was an easy one to fix! I definitely fell victim to overthinking this! Ha!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.