Just my opinion and what i do, i use shell rotella t4 15w40 diesel oil that has loads of zinc in it and a large K&N filter on mine to prevent wear on the valves and cam.
It is cheap and helped with my rod knock on my 223 ( Rest In Peace ). Diesel oil has higher protection standards because the government relies on diesel semis so much.

 

The only non ethanol gas i can get around here is cenex 91 octane gas for my truck although i do sometimes mix in a bit of farm gas into the tank.
Sshhhhhsh dont tell the EPA...

 

@DieselDog409 , good info and same for me on fuel and where said fuel exists. Cheap insurance for these trucks! Rotella it is! I have lots for the diesel trucks on property!

 

For 53-56 exterior mirrors were an extra cost dealer add on.

And so you know, those round chrome mirrors you are referring to, like the one on your driver's side were not stock to 52-56. Those round mirrors came out in 1957.

 

good to know!!

Driver's side mirror

Missing passenger's side...

 

I made some basic adjustments to the non-closing door striker and now that door shuts better than the one that didn't need anything! Yahoo!! Sprayed off the dust and wiped her down...loving this thing!

 

And, just to be honest, the small round mirrors are actually too small. At least I think they are.

 

I agree on their size...I just want them complete to how I was gifted the truck for nostalgia and it being "complete." If it was a daily driver for me, I'd be more inclined to change them from this Era to another... what do you suggest, out of curiosity?

 

Look at all the room in the engine compartment!! I stuffed a 390 in mine.

 

@Scottydog1001 , the more I imagine "what ifs" on engine changes, the 390 or 460 keep winking at me...SO MUCH ROOM from what is now!!

 

You were given a nice original well cared for truck, and I'd keep it that way. My advice would be to resist the seductive siren call of the 390/426 engines. Just because one would fit in your engine bay isn't a good reason for making a change. You probably already have a high hp modern vehicle for going fast. Old trucks don't need to be fast to be cool. Your original I6 engine will get you where you need to go, and the people you meet along the way will be impressed that your vehicle and engine are still just the way Henry intended for them to be.

You of course can do whatever you want with your truck. You own it after all. I'm just suggesting what I would do. Welcome to our forum and good luck with whatever you decide to do with your truck.

Jim

 

Jim is actually giving you some good advice.
If my truck was in drivable, original condition I probably would not have restomoded it.

My truck had a non running Ford big block FE engine in it. The truck did not have a seat and clearly had not run in a long time. It was in desperate need of a complete frame off restoration. When I took it apart, I discovered it had a broken frame. That was the result of too much horsepower with a transmission cross member that was removed. It was no big deal since I went that far, I was going to make sure it never broke again.

These trucks were designed with a frame that flexed to allow the solid axles to work properly. They cannot handle more than about 300 to 350 horsepower without serious issues.

My suggestion, if you are going to install high horsepower, you really should box at least the front of the frame. If you are going to run it hard, you may want to consider boxing the entire frame.

The factory frame, from my guesstimate is about 175 pounds.

My guesstimate it that a custom frame made out of 3/16 boxed steel (.188), would be around 300 pounds. My modified factory frame is around 400 pounds.

It all depends on how extreme you want to go. You just cannot drop big horsepower in one of these old trucks without doing some serious modifications.

That is why a stock, classic truck is not a bad idea, if you have a good one to start with.

 

These engine compartments seem wide up top, but they're actually rather narrow down below. They're somewhat shallow front to back, too. Big engines look impressive from the top side, but when you see what too many guys have done underneath to accommodate them, it's scary. The crossmember at the bellhousing is usually the first thing to go, and is one of the more critical elements in cab and frame stability on the 53-6's. Steering and brake components can be in the way of exhaust, so that can add another element of re-engineering that needs to be addressed. The "uh-oo, I didn't think about that before I..." snowball starts rolling pretty fast anytime you're looking to do any kind of non-stock modification. Not that that's a bad thing, you just need to be aware of what you're getting yourself into, while considering what you want the truck to do for you. If you're happy with a reliable driver you can get in and have fun with, what you have is perfect.

 

Well I learned my lesson with my 56 F-100 I spent some serious funds had it for 30 years enjoyed it nut did not like it. A guy bought it and I started looking for a unmolested 53 to 55. That's possible but the prices were, let's say not with in my budget. And thinking I should have asked more for my 56. I thought I bought a pretty nice 55. But I was wrong. I've owned and seen several 50s trucks all sooped up. Most of them purchased and not built by who.ever owned it. After three trucks I prefer that stock version over any improved what everAJ.

 

Well said.
My Coyote looks real impressive on the chassis and I only have the right inner fender on so far. I think the Coyote is bigger up top than a big block FE engine.
There is not a lot of room down below.

Many folks do not realize that the original bell housing/transmission cross member serves much more of a purpose than supporting the drive train. That is what supports the cab cantilevered mounts. They seem to break the frames behind the cab mounts, and usually on the right side more than the left side. I think that is because the factory master cylinder and pedal assembly mount helps reinforce the left side.