I bought a hub off Rockauto. It turned out to be a lock/free version. Not auto/lock. RA doesn't even offer a A/L version that l could find. Then l tried Amazon. It was the correct style but poorly manufactured and the diaphragm clamp just fell off. Ford it was.

The bigger problem is that inner seal failing and no vacuum develops to actuate the hub.

 

That is why you rotate the **** monthly and run them for about 10 miles.

You can also take them apart and service them at about 50-60K miles if needed.

 

Have you read this entire thread? I mentioned how often I use them weekly (manually) and I also posted a video of how to disassemble them .......and I also posted the the **** actuator itself is the culprit that seizes up and is non serviceable.

 

Yeah, my bad, did not read down far enough to see that you already addressed this issue.

Are the hubs getting submersed in mud that it gets in there?

 

Is this disputed? Warn does make the factory Ford hubs. The sintered clutch gears are identical between the Warn Premium and Ford OEM. There's also a Warn factory video showing them building the OEM Ford hubs in the background.

At $500 now, perhaps the real reason why Warn doesn't offer a vacuum actuated "Premium" hub is cost and market acceptance.

 

Is there anything to service in these? Or are they pretty much sealed up.

 

In my opinion, the source for the debris is entering through the letters that say FORD in the center of the ****. Years ago I was washing my truck with soapy water, and as I was washing the hub and center cap, I turned the dial to lock and I saw bubbles coming from the open FORD letters. Posted years ago about this and someone said its from the vacuum diaphragm blowing out through the letters so it can release the vacuum. I'll search for this post and post it if I find it.

 

I found it:


#16 Report Post
Old 03-24-2018, 11:48 AM
@dnewton3
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Just so folks understand how this is supposed to work, I'll give an overview of the system ...

To start with, let's first talk about a traditional brake system. The master cylinder holds the fluid. As the fluid is "replaced" into the pressure side via the return of the rod along it's return stroke, the fluid volume has to be supplied by the reservoir. If that reservoir were completely sealed, it too would have a vacuum which would deter the free and timely flow of fluid into the sealed portion of the system. Hence, there's a tiny hole to vent one side; typically on the cap and goes through a baffled rubber piece.

The 4x4 vacuum system is similar (not same, but close). The vacuum side is on the inboard side of the hub. There is a piston-type movement that the hub uses to "pull" to engage the hub drive when the vacuum is applied. If there were no relief on the other side, then once side of vacuum would actually create vacuum on the opposite side and the movement would stall. In essence the two vacuums would try to balance out and the locking mechanism would not get fully engaged or disengaged. For it to work right, when the vacuum is applied, the other side MUST have the ability to draw atmospheric make-up air volume from somewhere which is NOT restricted. So there's a tiny vent-like design applied to the outboard side.

When the OP washed his truck, it was no big deal. But when he applied and released the 4x4 by activating the vacuum system, it will draw in a tiny bit of outside air as the hub locks, and then expel it again as the system unlocks. The water present with the air will also go in and out. It's unavoidable and expected. But it's also why the systems will eventually get dirt and corrosion inside, and then be slow to engage, or get stuck one way or another, or worse yet, stuck mid-stroke.

There are springs inside the mechamism. Typically these are not needed for the application of 4x4; the vacuum does this. The springs are to encourage the return of the hub lock AFTER the vacuum is ceased (4x4 turned off so the vacuum signal is stopped on inboard side). Then the spring returns the slider to the unlocked position. If done manually, there's a cam that engages with the tuning of the dial that overcomes the springs, and then when the dial is returned to the "unlock" position, the spring resets the system outward again. So either way, the mechanism has to be moved inboard to lock (vacuum or dial cam) and then the spring returns the system to open when vacuum ceases or manual over-ride is dialed "open".

So as to be clear, the vacuum side of the system needs to be fully sealed. However the slave-side of the system has to be open to available pressure to offset that, so the mechanism will activate. If there were vacuum present on the other side, it would not work properly. (Note - vacuum could be used for both sides, but that would complicate the system and both would still need a volume chamber to draw from opposite of the vacuum application).

I recommend taking the system apart once a year, cleaning the guts and applying a VERY light lube (like sewing machine oil or a mist of 3-in-1; not heavy grease or thick oil). If one cannot reasonably turn the locking hub by hand, it's dirty enough to need service.

 

Do the warn hubs automatically lock when shifted into 4 wheel drive or do you have to manually lock the hubs before hand?

 

manually lock the hubs before hand

 

Can I leave them locked when driving on dry pavement in 2 wheel drive?

 

Yes. Mine are currently locked right now for the rest of the winter, simply shift into four wheel drive as you need and back to two wheel drive. You can even shift while moving, but for four low you'll need to stop the vehicle and shift the transmission into neutral first. Most manual hub kits will come with a vacuum hose cap(s) for each side. Vacuum engagement is no longer used with this set up. Manual hubs have been around for decades, nothing new here.

 

well my hubs are shot-
i took them out and the plastic retainers are broken holding the gears. i can manually turn the **** (stiff) to look them in but auto is no more. i did not service the hubs (150k) and the **** was so tight i needed to put an adjustable on it to turn it (was stuck) so i likely forced broke mine instead of servicing.

i bought a set off amazon for $150 aftermarket. they would not install. they wouldnt spline in , i returned them and bought from another vender and they wouldnt spline in either. so i will just save up for the factory set.

 

Its why I went with manual hubs (WARN) wasn't going to mess with it ever again. IMO, the factory design is nice but the build suffers.