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This is in regard to this truck:
YEAR 1996
MAKE FORD
MODEL F-150 XLT
DRIVE 4WD
CAB STANDARD
TRANS AUTO
BRAKE E 6001-7000LBS
LINE/SERIES/BODY/TYPE F14 — F-Series F150 4X4 Regular Cab – Styleside Truck
ENGINE N 8 cy 5.0 Gas MFI (MULTI-PORT fi)
GVWR 6250LB
FRONT GAWR 2950
REAR GAWR 3776
TIRES P235/75R15XL
RIMS 15x7.5J
WHEEL BASE 133
BRAKE B
BODY 564
TRANS U Automatic 4R70W
AXLE 19 Ford 8.8 3.55 non-LS
SPRINGS Front K 5310 spring Rear I 43-1097 supersession 43-965
Leaves: 4 or 3+1, 3" wide
PAINT CODE
MAX TOWING 7100LBS
MAX GCWR 11500LBS
MAXFRNTAL 60SQFT
QUESTION:
Are the locations shown in the images below good-to-go for jack stands under my F-150?
I made up some DIY 24"x12"xvariable" wheel cribs / jack stands. I have a bit of work to do on my F-150 and I figured they might be a better option than regular jack stands. I gave it the old shove & pull test and my truck is solid on them.
Owners manual says jack points are the rear axles (but don't jack up using the rear diff--called out in manual), so I think I am OK, there. Front jack points are on the front axles to right & left of rear diff.
I figured the frame was a safe location to use, but maybe not so much? I think those asymmetric two-post lifts place their pads on the frame. I coul dprobably put the fronts stands under the fornt axle, but that won't be helpful when I need to get after the suspension bits up front.
Truly, I have become a "shade tree (wanna-be) mechanic."
Side View
Forward stand supporting frame longitudinally
Rear stands supporting axle
Owners manual says jack points are on the front axle, to the left & right of the front diff
Looks solid to me. Only changes I'd consider would be moving everything as far out from center as physically possible, and maybe a single vertical 4x4 in the front if you're really paranoid
Id take those over jack stands anyday as long as they were out of the way!
Are all those 2X lumber pieces that make up the center of your main stands nailed or glued together? If they were I personally would feel a lot safer, especially if you are going to be rocking stuff around under the truck. Yes I realize you did the shove and pull test.
I usually use a couple large tree stump pieces laid on the longer round parts and only block either the front or rear end up and leave the wheels on the other end blocked so the truck can't roll. Anyway be safe.
Are all those 2X lumber pieces that make up the center of your main stands nailed or glued together? If they were I personally would feel a lot safer, especially if you are going to be rocking stuff around under the truck. Yes I realize you did the shove and pull test.
I usually use a couple large tree stump pieces laid on the longer round parts and only block either the front or rear end up and leave the wheels on the other end blocked so the truck can't roll. Anyway be safe.
Yes, the 2x4s are secured together.
* Bottom course (24"): 2x6 treated southern yellow pine, ground contact. (So base is 24"x16", not just 24"x12")
* Next course (12"): 2x4 TSYP, also ground contact grade.
* The rest of the 2x4 going up typical white wood studs.
* Every corner gets two 3" deck screws and Titebond III woterproof int/ext wood glue, painted on nice & even with a foam brush.
* I made 2x4 & 4x4 inserts to fit on top to turn them into jack stands and vary the height.
* I tested the bond on a mistake I made. It required a wide cold chisel & hammer to separate (once I removed the deck screws). One bond took several blows to separate, on the other, the Titebond III bond never broke, as it took hunks of wood with it. Stuff sticks pretty good.
You could stack more trucks on them and they would be fine.
Only observation is that the front stands are in line with the frame. A cross piece would provide better lateral stability, like the way the rear axles are on a crossway board.
Second the suggestion to spread them as far apart as possible.
You could stack more trucks on them and they would be fine.
Only observation is that the front stands are in line with the frame. A cross piece would provide better lateral stability, like the way the rear axles are on a crossway board.
Second the suggestion to spread them as far apart as possible.
1. Yep, maybe I ought to get a longer 4x4 to go across or rotate them 90 degrees.
2. Indeed. I can move the front stands a bit forward if I go cross-wise with them
Originally Posted by tjc transport
i always support under the axles as far out as i can.........unless i am removing the axle. than i support off the front or rear frame horns
On the rear axle, I am out as far as I can, given witdth of the stands (12") and the tires. If I jack up at the rear diff (like the owners manual says NOT to do), I can remove the tires and them move the stands out a bit more.
I moved the front stands forward a bit and trned them 90 degrees. Due to the exhaust pipe & the axle coming forward from the transfer case to the front diff, the frame is resting on the stand only a bit inward of the end stack. If you look at the third image down in the OP, imagine hte rear end of hte stand rotating toward you to be orthagonal to the frame, pushed forward toward the engine, and the frame resting on the top 4x4 in-line with the smaller "c" on the lower 4x4. Still solid. I pushed & pulled on the stands while the jack was still there as a safety, then I removed th ejack and pushed & pulled on the truck. Solid.
I think I am going to like these stands and, over time, craft adapters & such to optimize them for all my vehicles. I guess I now have no excuse not to get to work on the truck itself.
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