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This is what I was gonna get for all the wiring.
Am I missing anything? The voltage regulator will plug into it like the old one, and then I take the old wire out from the alternator and solenoid and put the new cable in with the 200A fuse? Or do I have to be connecting some other stuff and splicing the old harness?
I’m confused on wiring. So for the black/white wire that comes from the old 2G connector how do I use that for this?
So that way it still loops from the alternator to the voltage regulator. Is anyone able to link me what type of plug that is? I don’t know what it is.
So, would I cut the black white off of the old 2g connector, get that connector in the picture above. And put that black white wire to this? And then I’ve got the old regulator plug plugged in. And when the lug gets here I’ll wire that cable and fuse from the alternators post to the solenoids battery side post? Wiring’s not my thing so I’m probably confused over nothing
Update: I think I know what to do.
1- cut the white/black wire off of old power connector, and loop it into that new plug.
2- cut the yellow wire off of the old harness and connect it to the battery side of the solenoid for battery power to alternator
3- wire in main power wire from alternator to solenoid.
Does that sound right? Green wires left alone so it can go to the cluster?
You need a new VR pigtail to make life easy. Something like below...
Yellow hooks to +B lug on back. White is stator plug, just connects into alt. Green is that green/black from body harness to excite the alt. I would use heat shrink crimp connectors, but that is me.
I recall on the Bricknose trucks there was some black bulkhead connector for green/black alone. At least I swear my '88 had this. But I have had a 3G in that truck for nearly 20 years
Easier to pull all the 2G wiring out, remove that green/black. Toss rest in trash. OR hit a parts yard and nab the OE 3G harness assembly. That is the easiest by far.
Sorry forgot to say I ordered the new connector pigtails. I ordered those two things separately on Amazon. The kits were short wiring so I’d have to extend it anyway so I got them separately so I don’t have to cut the new wire. I’ll take the wiring from the green wire cut it out of the old harness, and add the new pigtail to that so it still plugs in. Same with the yellow wire just that will now be its own wire on the solenoid. The white I’ll link it together for the stator. I have the 4 gauge wiring so I’ll get that crimped and I’ll put it in. Do I need to use the extra 4 gauge I have for ground on the back of the alternator? Or will the ground be sufficient from the contact points on the alternator bracket?
Usually it grounds fine through the mounting bolts. On some older vehicles that are corroded real bad, I have sometimes found that adding a wire directly between the battery minus post and the alternator case solves problems with the engine electronics. Really depends what part of the country you're in.
Use the cable sizes Ford used. 6AWG is perfectly sufficient for a 130 amp alternator. IIRC on most 3g applications, both ends of the wire can be unbolted- so you could get one from a junkyard if need be.
This article does a pretty good job of explaining why, although it's counter-intuitive, it is not advisable to use a heavy gauge cable directly to the battery.
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